Thread: Is Rubbing Alcohol ok for a Straight Razor?

Originally Posted by CarrieM

I guess my first question to you is why do you feel like you need to sterilize the blade? Once the blade is completely dry there isn't any micro organisms that can survive on steel.

In answer to your question, you can wipe the blade down with alcohol and let air dry. I wouldn't soak it in it though.

I agree with this comment!

Originally Posted by Obie

Ladies and gentlemen:

Through the years, when cleaning and sterilizing razors, I have come to depend on nothing but soap and hot water — and a good scrubbing.

Regards,
Obie

That is all I ever use is dishwashing soap and hot water. Alcohol won't hurt anything as long as you dry it off but isn't any better than soap and water.

Ok, I just got the new razor, and used a Q-tip dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol and swabbed the blade quickly before first use, and wiped it clean with a dry towel. Then proceeded with the shave making sure to not get any water on any other portion of the razor other than the blade to merely rinse the lather off between strokes. I also made sure to keep my hands dry and not allow moisture to get into the scales.

As soon as I finished the shave and dried the blade to get it ready to apply mineral oil before putting it away, I noticed this spot had popped up miraculously! WTF!? Can someone please explain this? Here are the best pictures I could manage to take with my camera.

I don't know if this is the start of a rust spot or what....

Originally Posted by Larzz

Hey there everyone,
For those of you who read my introduction thread in the beginner's section, you saw the pictures of the brand new razor I accidentally ruined when I took the advice of a Dovo employee and soaked the carbon steel straight razor in a diluted white vinegar & water solution which in turn completely ruined the razor causing it to rust.
My previous thread - http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...-everyone.html
displays pictures of the razor, and the whole story behind it.

Anyways, I would like to know if using rubbing alcohol on the blade and scales would be ok to sterilize the straight razor, or would this pose any threat of causing the blade to rust, or ruining the scales?

Thanks everyone

_____________________________________
________________________________________

Larzz
Vinegar is a mild organic acid known as acetic acid but is nonetheless an acid. Acid can destroy. It is used to dissolve lead. Thank the Lord you didn't dip your razor in Nitric or Sulfuric or Hydrochloric acid.

Several members recommended soap and water and you will always be safe with this combination. Dry your razor well and oil with mineral oil or camelia oil or maybe WD-40, And I guess baby oil would be good also. NO ACID of any kind.

Next time you get a brainstorm, run it up the old flagpole and see who salutes it. There are many knowledgable members here and they will stop you from doing something you might regret later.

Originally Posted by Larzz

...............
Anyways, I would like to know if using rubbing alcohol on the blade and scales would be ok to sterilize the straight razor, or would this pose any threat of causing the blade to rust, or ruining the scales?

Thanks everyone

Rubbing alcohol followed by a thin application of mineral oil to sanitize (not
sterilize) is commonly used (and so is shaving soap and hot water).

Alcohol will strip any oil from the surface of the steel and then steel
will quickly rust right before your eyes so you must apply a thin layer
of oil promptly to keep the rust bunnies at bay.

WD-40 displaces water and can help keep the steel under
the scales near the pins dry and with a small application of
oil rust free. i.e. Oil the entire blade.

Mineral oil (USP) and WD-40 top my list of post alcohol products
with mineral oil topping the longer storage list. For long storage,
gun oil and 3-in-one oil.come to play. I do like the way WD-40 wets
steel and wipes off leaving almost no goo. Other good oils can
be found in barber shops for lubricating clippers and even sewing
machine oil.

Mineral oil (pharmacy grade) is safe and can even be eaten.
where its lubrication properties can astound.... READ THE LABEL!....
Laxative (Oral Route) - MayoClinic.com

Originally Posted by Larzz

Ok, I just got the new razor, and used a Q-tip dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol and swabbed the blade quickly before first use, and wiped it clean with a dry towel. Then proceeded with the shave making sure to not get any water on any other portion of the razor other than the blade to merely rinse the lather off between strokes. I also made sure to keep my hands dry and not allow moisture to get into the scales.

As soon as I finished the shave and dried the blade to get it ready to apply mineral oil before putting it away, I noticed this spot had popped up miraculously! WTF!? Can someone please explain this? Here are the best pictures I could manage to take with my camera.

I don't know if this is the start of a rust spot or what....

I believe it is a water spot.It is common for spots like that to pop up. Especially in humid places. I have that problem a lot. I live in a very humid area. Once i am done shaving,i rinse the razor in hot water and i dry it off GOOD. It is very important to make sure the razor and scales are totally dry(especially the inside of the scales). If a spot shows up? and they do,i use Maas to take it out. But be VERY careful using it on your blade. It will take off the etching wash. So use a cotton swab and watch that you do not go near the lettering. Good luck and enjoy the shaves

All I've ever used is soap and water. It seems to work well enough!

The only oil I've ever put on a blade is WD-40, as it keeps the water out and wipes off really easily.

Larzz, that mark on your razor should come off with MAAS and a Q-tip. I occasionally get them on some of my razors and they come off pretty easily..!

Originally Posted by Stubear

All I've ever used is soap and water. It seems to work well enough!

The only oil I've ever put on a blade is WD-40, as it keeps the water out and wipes off really easily.

Larzz, that mark on your razor should come off with MAAS and a Q-tip. I occasionally get them on some of my razors and they come off pretty easily..!

Isn't WD40 for like helping with roller blades or a rusty door?

If you spray your razor with that on the blade then shave I can't imagine it would be too kind on your face unless you got it all off somehow, but I imagine there will be some on the blade edge still. So this is really confusing to me.

Originally Posted by sproosemoose

Isn't WD40 for like helping with roller blades or a rusty door?

If you spray your razor with that on the blade then shave I can't imagine it would be too kind on your face unless you got it all off somehow, but I imagine there will be some on the blade edge still. So this is really confusing to me.

Do recall that after fully drying to the next day the cutting
edge itself will have been wiped again some 20 times on
the canvas side and +20 times on the leather side.

Still, your point is well taken which is why so many like mineral
oil. Mineral oil has the advantage of being inexpensive,
orderless and does not gets spritzed all over the bathroom causing
the misses to complain that it smells like a machine shop.

Originally Posted by niftyshaving

Do recall that after fully drying to the next day the cutting
edge itself will have been wiped again some 20 times on
the canvas side and +20 times on the leather side.

Still, your point is well taken which is why so many like mineral
oil. Mineral oil has the advantage of being inexpensive,
orderless and does not gets spritzed all over the bathroom causing
the misses to complain that it smells like a machine shop.

@sproosemoose:

Also, if you take a look at the Mineral Oil (USP) U.S.P. stands for United States Pharmacopeia, which means that it's medically safe. Infact, the main use for mineral oil is supposed to be as an intestinal Lubricant/Laxative. Hence why you find mineral oil in the pharmacy section of any department store like wal-mart.
Mineral oil is actually really neat stuff... It's uses go way beyond just a laxative. It can also be used to protect metal from rusting, and also as a wood conditioner among many other uses... I highly recommend reading up on it at wiki. Here is a link to the mineral oil section on wikipedia.
Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Also, I'm assuming baby oil would be ok to use as a rust preventative as well considering baby oil is nothing more than mineral oil with added scent.

Personally, I wouldn't use WD-40 first and foremost because it's simply not the best oil out there... I shoot pistol competitively and gun enthusiasts know to stay away from using WD-40 on their guns because it's a low grade oil that eventually gunks up and attracts dust. This is not good when you are dealing with moving parts or folding knives that move on hinges.
For guns I stick with break-free gun oil. It's a much higher grade of oil. Even 3-in-1 oil isn't bad either. But as far as straight razors are concerned, straight razors are instruments that are used on your face, and often times can nick the skin, and I wouldn't want WD-40, break-free, 3-in-1, or any other type of synthetic oils anywhere near my face. That is why I would stick with regular mineral oil USP from the pharmacy. Since it's safe to drink and use as a laxative, it would be ok if it comes into contact with your face. And once again, it's approved by the United States Pharmacopeia.
For more info on the USP, check out the wiki page on USP at
United States Pharmacopeia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia