Thread: Blued razors?

Every now and then I come across one of these. Frequently it is the haft only, but I've even seen a completely blued Dovo. To me it makes sense, the high carbon steel should accept blueing nicely, when done correctly, it protects the metal and should increase the life of the blade (though not the edge). Why don't I see this done more often? Is it just aesthetics?

Goog

They are out there. Mostly the older ones. I guess the style never fell into favor. I'm not so sure how durable the bluing is and few razors are actually totally plated. There are some that have been nickel plated and gold is used as a decoration mostly. Of course that doesn't stop you from doing it yourself. I know guys have tried it with variable success. I guess depending on whether you use the hot or cold method determines how well it goes.

I can hot blue a razor. I made up a lye and fertilizer solution a while back to blue some gun parts. I'ts really a question of "why not?" I may do it to an ebay special and see if I like it.

Goog

Originally Posted by greatgoogamooga

I can hot blue a razor. I made up a lye and fertilizer solution a while back to blue some gun parts. I'ts really a question of "why not?" I may do it to an ebay special and see if I like it.

Goog

go head please let us know how it will look like

Hi Goog,

I use the same lye/fertiliser mix to 'hot' blue - here's a Timor I did quite a while ago (photo isn't up to much - the reddish mottling on the blade wasn't there in real-life):



The mixture isn't used at blade-temper distorting heats - well under in fact. It was a G&F Blued Steel razor, that's why I did it. It's a bit of an acquired taste, but a very durable finish - you have to protect the spine and be careful during honing though. The bright silver line of the bevel contrasts nicely against the almost black blade.

Regards,
Neil

Lots of blued tangs out there.

I have a Kinfolks Blue Steel Special that is completely blued.

Only problem is that, over time, bluing wears, just as gold wash does, only bluing may be more robust for a finish.

The bevel and any hone wear really stand out.

I have serious doubts that there is any significant additional protection. A blued razor will rust or pit like a non-blued razor.

Blued blades aint as shiny as raw steel, so I would imagine its a matter of consumer tastes and what is easily salable. But blued makes a lot of sense, and just like a blued knife, the edge would add some pretty contrast as Neil has pointed out.

Originally Posted by Neil Miller

Hi Goog,

I use the same lye/fertiliser mix to 'hot' blue - here's a Timor I did quite a while ago (photo isn't up to much - the reddish mottling on the blade wasn't there in real-life):
The mixture isn't used a blade-temper distorting heats - well under in fact.
Regards,
Neil

Just making sure I read that typo correctly that the mixture isn't used AT temper distorting temps...right. That's something I hadn't thought about. If I remember, the solution boils at close to 300F. I need to be much higher than that to damage the blade.....right...right?

goog

Originally Posted by greatgoogamooga

Just making sure I read that typo correctly that the mixture isn't used AT temper distorting temps...right. That's something I hadn't thought about. If I remember, the solution boils at close to 300F. I need to be much higher than that to damage the blade.....right...right?

goog

You may be getting close to tempering temperature but it depends on the steel. If I recall correctly some tool steels are tempered around 400/450. Best to Google 'tempering tool steel' and see what you get.

Another option available at gun shops is Belgian Blue, which is a cold bluing solution you just wipe on.

Good luck

Originally Posted by greatgoogamooga

Just making sure I read that typo correctly that the mixture isn't used AT temper distorting temps...right. That's something I hadn't thought about. If I remember, the solution boils at close to 300F. I need to be much higher than that to damage the blade.....right...right?

goog

That dyslexia is gaining on me! I have corrected the typo now thanks. The mixture I use is used at 285 degrees F, so has no effect on the blades I have put through it.

Regards,
Neil