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  1. #11
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    The duration of the high temp is what would give me pause. The other big NO! is rust formation along the edge of the blade.

    If you are really, really concerned with bacteria/virus then use Barbercide. That kills everything.
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Soap and warm/hot water is a wonderful cleaning agent. If you get rid of any accumulated crud there is no where for any germ to live. Like Gugi said, a couple of weeks on clean, dry steel will kill anything.

  3. #13
    Wee Whisker Whacker BingoBango's Avatar
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    Don't forget that if your razors are being restored they're gonna go under a buffer and some of the metal may be removed.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Here is a temp chart for steam and another for dry heat claves;

    Autoclave Temperature and Time Pressure Chart
    STERILIZER TEMPERATURE PRESSURE TIME
    Steam autoclave 121 C (250 F) 15psi 15min unwrapped items 132 C (270 F) 30psi 3min
    lightly wrapped items 132 C (270 F) 30psi 8min
    heavily wrapped items 132 C (270 F) 30psi 10min

    Dry heat wrapped 170 C (340 F)
    60 min 160 C (340 F)
    120min
    150 C (300F)
    150min
    140 C (285F)
    180min
    121 C (250F)
    12hrs
    Dry heat (rapid flow) 190 C (375F)
    6min unwrapped items

    Dry heat (rapid flow) 190 C (375 F)
    12min packaged items

    Chemical vapor 132 C (270 F) 20-40 psi 20min
    Ethylene oxide Ambient
    8-10 hours
    As published by Jada, (Journal of American Dental Association)
    Vol 122 December 1991
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #15
    I Bleed Slurry Disburden's Avatar
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    I wouldn't use it, it can ruin the temper.

  6. #16
    esp
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    Ok, I'll talk to the Doctor at the office by tommorow. I'll let you know the temp and duration.

  7. #17
    Scale Maniac BKratchmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by esp View Post
    Ok, I'll talk to the Doctor at the office by tommorow. I'll let you know the temp and duration.
    Okay, here is the deal.

    There are three types of sterilization:

    1. Physical- ultrafine filtration of pharmaceuticals, etc. For temperature sensitive chemical or food-grade products.

    2. Heat- for stable surfaces (like labware) or media that are heat-stable.

    3. Chemical- for heat or water unstable solids.


    You can autoclave your razor, but Barbicide or any other hospital grade sterilizing agent will do the exact same job with a hell of a lot less effort.... or risk. Pressure + hot steam + carbon steel = rust bucket.

  8. #18
    all your razor are belong to us red96ta's Avatar
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    The other option for you is a cold sterile solution. We use this in the office for items that can't be autoclaved. It's as easy as filling up a tupperware dish and placing your items in for 24 hours...bango, sterile. MX1400 - Glutaraldehyde Cold Sterilization Solution 14 day 1 Gallon in Sterilization, Disinfectants & Cleaners at Med-Vet International The solution is good for up to one month once activated.

    All this talk of hardcore sterilants is kinda useless since nasty stuff has a short lifespan outside the body. Besides, if you sand that razor and restore it in pretty much any way, the bad stuff is getting ground off anyway. Even if you wrapped the razor and autoclaved it, an hour after you unwrapped it it would no longer be sterile. STERILE means that you have destroyed ALL pathogens. The moment you unwrap the razor it is immediately exposed to pathogens and thus, is no longer sterile.
    Last edited by red96ta; 05-14-2010 at 12:35 AM.

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Here is a temp chart for steam and another for dry heat claves;
    ......
    Good table ....

    The OP should note how time and temperature are at odds
    longer time lower temperature.

    You want lower temperatures.

    Annealing tables that I have found go down to 300F (149C)...
    and with enough time at 300F you can expect to change
    the hardness of a razor.

    "Annealing" and "Tempering" are the keywords to research and has been discussed:

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...tml#post339543
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...tml#post340335
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...tml#post354809

    Strictly speaking room temperature will anneal steel but it take
    lots of time.

    If you do it, do it only once and at as low a temp as possible.

    One knife maker does: "3 times at 400F one hour each"
    and tests for hardness each time because it gives him control
    and he can stop when he wants.... The point is that each
    heating subtracts hardness from a finished razor.

    If you are going to do this do it right including a cautious management
    of everything that touches a razor. Hands, gloves, boxes, hones,
    strops.

    Abrasion and chemicals are a good thing.

  10. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by esp View Post
    Ok, I'll talk to the Doctor at the office by tommorow. I'll let you know the temp and duration.
    You can't be too careful.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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