Thread: HELP! Should my razor be rusting this fast?

I am always afraid my blades will rust so what I have done I have a locking box only as I have kids but I put my razors in this wood box and it contains a rechargeable silica gel that sucks out all the humidity from the box so it is dry. The gel is used to prevent rust on firearms and you can get a small one cheap. Just check ebay for silica gel.

Hi,

WRT Bnicks post about storing his razors in a box with silica gel.

Has anybody used vapour phase inhibitors (VPI) in their razor storage containers ?

Years ago, engineering gauges, micrometers etc were supplied with squares of VPI impregnated paper in their cases, and they seemed to do a good job of preventing corrosion.

I think you can still get domestic VPI sachets for firearms (Napier makes one).

Does anybody know if these VPIs are compatible with synthetic scales ?

Have fun !

Best regards

Russ

Here is what I use I did not buy from this site just what I found on a search but is the same one I have and it is cheap and works great.

Hydrosorbent Silica Gel Desiccant 40 Gram (Protects 3 Cubic Feet) Canister - MidwayUSA

Originally Posted by Utopian

Yes, I've been making/using this myself for about 8 years. It's approximately one part mineral oil to two hundred parts alcohol. It takes several days for the oil to dissolve and if you put too much in it won't all dissolve, but that's not a problem--you just shake it like oil and vinegar dressing.

I dip and wipe to remove soap residue, then I dip again and let it air dry with the razor open. Evaporation only takes a couple minutes. I have never seen any ill effect on any etching or metallic part. I don't dip the scales so this does not protect the pivot area. I rely upon not getting that area wet in the first place. I suspect most scale materials would be unaffected but I've never been in the mood to experiment with finding out which they are.

I was wondering about dipping my razors into alcohol since it is hygroscopic. I never thought to dissolve oil into the alcohol. Makes me wonder about which oil would be best.
Good stuff!!

Does anyone use WD40 ?? The stuff displaces moisture (FYI, WD40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt), it was initially develloped in the 50's as a rust prevention agent for the aerospace industry.

I can't see why it couldn't work to get rid of the microscopic water particles left on a razor after shaving, the initial intent of WD40 WAS to do just that (well, for aircraft, not razors...)

I think i'll give it a try.

True but is it something you want to put on your face? Just my thought.

Originally Posted by Glenn24

Does anyone use WD40 ?? The stuff displaces moisture (FYI, WD40 stands for Water Displacement, 40th attempt), it was initially develloped in the 50's as a rust prevention agent for the aerospace industry.

I can't see why it couldn't work to get rid of the microscopic water particles left on a razor after shaving, the initial intent of WD40 WAS to do just that (well, for aircraft, not razors...)

I think i'll give it a try.

Originally Posted by nicknbleeding

True but is it something you want to put on your face? Just my thought.

Well, no...

Hopefully there would be nothing left, or only a negligible amount after wiping.

I'm willing to sacrifice my gorgeous hollywood face for the SRP community to try it. I hope I'm right !!

If you use the alcohol and oil dip, make sure it is 91% alcohol.

When I get a new razor I clean it off and use flitz on it (None gold wash blades) that leaves a wax layer on the blade. I then put a small drop of oil in each side of the pivot and work it in a little. wipe the excess off.
When I shave the blade does not hold water so it is less likely to get in the pivot. If water gets in the pivot. I hit it with compressed air. You can buy compressed air in the computer department in cans with a tube Then a drop of 91% alcohol on each side of the pivot and let it sit for a minute or 2. Then reoil the pivot.
Let the razor sit out open and air dry in a dry place. I store my razor in a wooden cigar box that has been sealed with polyurathan on the outside.
In the box I keep 5 packets of desicant.

So far I have never seen any sign of rust on any blade

I do recoat the blades with wax or flitz every 6 to 8 weeks.

Hope this helps some of you folks?


Silver2

An alternative to silica desiccant is plain old rice. It's easily accessible and if you occasionally swap it out, it's still edible.

Regarding use of oils, mineral oil is better than things like olive or grape seed oil, which are actually fats and will go rancid and acidic.

Originally Posted by Glenn24

Well, no...

Hopefully there would be nothing left, or only a negligible amount after wiping.

I'm willing to sacrifice my gorgeous hollywood face for the SRP community to try it. I hope I'm right !!

Well lets hope your Hollywood face goes unscathed.