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Thread: fools rush in
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09-23-2010, 11:04 PM #1
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- Sep 2010
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Thanked: 0fools rush in
I just purchased my first straight razor on eBay. It looks to be in pretty good shape but will need some work. I figure it's a good one to learn about restoring razors. The razor I purchased says "Clover Brand" on the handle with a clover symbol. The tang (forgive me if I get names of parts confused) says "Red Man" on one side and Clover Brand, Registered, Germany on the other with another clover symbol. It doesn't say W.H. Morley and Sons, which produced a Clover Brand. Can someone tell me what it is or point me in the right direction (provided it doesn't involve a long walk off a short pier). Any help would be much appreciated. Also, I plan to buy a new Dovo Shave Ready to actually begin shaving with (I'm only crazy some of the time). Are the new ones as good as the vintage restored ones?
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09-24-2010, 12:35 AM #2
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- Sep 2010
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- Melbourne, Australia
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Thanked: 0well i can't help you with the first question, but i shave with a Dovo Best Quality 5/8ths razor, and it shaves quite well ^_^ i guess it all comes down to if the razor was honed properly or not, and your technique. then again i wouldn't really know much, i've only been shaving with a straight Razor for about 3 weeks xD
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09-24-2010, 02:16 AM #3
A Morley Clover Brand was my first razor and I'd have to say it's probably my best shaving razor. I've never seen any other Clover Brands but that certainly doesn't mean they don't exist. Post up a pic if you can.
Last edited by Miner123; 09-24-2010 at 02:19 AM.
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09-24-2010, 02:27 AM #4
I think the answer to that depends on lots of things, but assuming a shave-ready blade, so far that seems to be the case for me. I have one new DOVO 6/8 Special and 4 vintage blades of different makes, and I get great shaves from all of them.
One thing I learned from my vintage Bengall is that sometimes with an older blade, you have to keep the angles smaller than usual. Lynn had told me that it was probably 2/8 narrower than it had been originally (it's a 5/8), so smaller angles were called for. Once I tried that, it shaved just as well as the others in my rotation."If you ever get the pipes in good chune, your troubles have just begun."--Seamus Ennis
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09-24-2010, 02:56 AM #5
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Thanked: 275
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09-24-2010, 05:25 AM #6
I believe he's referring to shaving angle not honing angle.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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09-24-2010, 06:35 AM #7
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- Aug 2010
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Thanked: 275Duh . . . I guess that makes more sense.http://straightrazorpalace.com/image...ootinmouth.gif
If the blade gets narrower with age (and sharpening), and the spine stays the same thickness, the bevel angle would increase over time.
I can see that a larger bevel angle might require a different shaving angle than a smaller (new-razor) bevel angle.
I thought this "return to the straight razor" was supposed to be a _simplification_ of my life . . . . <g>
Charles
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09-24-2010, 09:30 AM #8
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09-24-2010, 01:05 PM #9
My bad, sorry. I wasn't referring to honing angle but to shaving angle. Apparently, when shaving with an older razor that has lost a lot of metal and has a good bit of hone wear (both true in this case), it's necessary (or advisable, anyway) to keep the WTG angle LESS than 30 degrees, and angles for other passes smaller than usual also. Lynn didn't really go into why, but it works. Sorry for the confusion.
"If you ever get the pipes in good chune, your troubles have just begun."--Seamus Ennis
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09-24-2010, 10:56 PM #10
Clover razors
Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.