Thread: Practice honing with antique store razors

I am in the habit of buying antique store razors as I can find them for between 3 - 10 dollars, obviously, they are not even close to shave ready.

I have one shave ready razor that I bought from Bob's Razors (highly recommended) that I shave with so I can play all that I want with the antique store razors.

I'm not really trying to restore them, just get a usable edge back on them. I'm really not knowledgeable enough to judge their condition. I do enjoy honing when at home doing nothing else, it's almost soothing. Plus, I figure I would practice on the antique store razors before really hosing my one good razor.

What would be the minimum that I need to sharpen old antique store razors? I know that that is a broad question. None are chipped (well, one was, I missed that...) or otherwise damaged. I've seen so many recommendations with all different grits, wet stones / dry stones, etc. I'm not sure where to start. And the prices, wow.

Is there some type of 'entry level' kit with a couple of stones/hones that I need to get started without breaking the bank (those are the wife's rules, not mine)?

Thanks!

This is a case in which the Wiki is probably your best starting point.

Once you've read that, ask away!

I can see that, after reading the Wiki, I am going to have lots more questions. After taking a quick peek, I do have a couple of questions though.

I didn't notice where it recommends or compares wet stones with dry. Is that simply a personal preference?

I was also looking at the bevels here and need some clarification. I assume that the images that they are showing is the extreme tip of the blade, otherwise those blades would be wedges and not hollow ground. Or am I missing something? Also, what is the 'marker test'?

And tape on the bevel. I assume that this raises the bevel increasing the angle of the edge? I would have thought that the tape would wear too quickly for any good to come of that. Or am I also misunderstanding that technique?

Thanks again!

Originally Posted by spinsheet

I can see that, after reading the Wiki, I am going to have lots more questions. After taking a quick peek, I do have a couple of questions though.

I didn't notice where it recommends or compares wet stones with dry. Is that simply a personal preference?
Almost all razor hones are wet. The only common exceptions are some barber hones and the Spyderco series.


I was also looking at the bevels here and need some clarification. I assume that the images that they are showing is the extreme tip of the blade, otherwise those blades would be wedges and not hollow ground. Or am I missing something? Also, what is the 'marker test'?
You are correct. It represents the very tip of the bevel. The marker test is done to determine if the entire length of the blade is making contact with the hone and therefore is causing the uniform removal of steel along the entire length of the edge. Unfortunately, this is very often not the case during the initial stages of bevel setting. The marker test is done by light drawing on both sides of the length of the bevel and then doing a couple of honing strokes. Regions of the bevel that retain the marking are not contacting the hone.


And tape on the bevel. I assume that this raises the bevel increasing the angle of the edge? I would have thought that the tape would wear too quickly for any good to come of that. Or am I also misunderstanding that technique?

Actually, the spine is taped. This lifts the spine and geometry dictates that yes, the angle of the edge is increased. This is done to protect the spine or to again, increase the angle of the edge. If you use a good quality electrical tape like 3M, the tapes lasts quite a while but you do need to replace it regularly as when it wears the edge angle is gradually decreased.

Thanks again!

You're welcome to ask more!

I was in a similar situation, and decided to use sandpaper and microabrasive paper -- see the wiki:

Using micro abrasive film - Straight Razor Place Wiki

It's an easy, quick, inexpensive way to get started. I added a chromium-oxide pasted strop; even 5 micron microabrasive paper leaves a rough edge, compared to a finishing stone.

Charles

From the MicroFlim article in the Wiki:

Because of the difficulty of applying the film and the fact that it will have to be reapplied at intervals I would not recommend this system to a beginning honer. Once someone has a good grasp of the quality of surface needed for honing a razor it isn't to hard to get it using the method described but this is outside the experience of the beginner. It is exactly those beginners whom will be most attracted to this system due to its low price so I highly doubt this will ever become a mainstream method for honing razors. It remains a very effective but outside of the ordinary honing experience, and one I will personally stick with, but not for everybody.





Not saying it doesn't work, but when things don't go as planned there are very few sources to go to for help..
Where as the Norton set is the most familiar set of stones to the most amount of Seasoned Honers, in fact most every Honemeister on the forum has used one or started with one so experienced help is but a post away...

Is there an actual Norton Starter set or do I just grab the stones that you mentioned?

Here, and ask for the Norton Starter set a 220/1k + 4k/8k + a lapping stone that does work until you get a better one

The price breakdown seems to be:
220 - $27
1k - $46
Combo 4k/8k - $80

Is there a Combo 220/1k? I didn't see one.

And then whatever a lapping stone will cost. Is a lapping stone the same as a barber's hone?

Thanks again for all of the help.

There is an actual set, if it isn't there ATM call Don or e-mail him and ask...yes there is a combo 220/1k

IIRC they had the set for about $130 but Don or Lynn can get you sorted out....

The lapping stone cleans and evens up the other stones, the one that comes with that set will "Work" but eventually if you keep at this, you are going to want to get a DMT 325 as it is the workhorse lapping plate we all use

Originally Posted by gssixgun

From the MicroFlim article in the Wiki:

Because of the difficulty of applying the film and the fact that it will have to be reapplied at intervals I would not recommend this system to a beginning honer. . . .. It is exactly those beginners whom will be most attracted to this system due to its low price so I highly doubt this will ever become a mainstream method for honing razors. It remains a very effective but outside of the ordinary honing experience, and one I will personally stick with, but not for everybody.


Not saying it doesn't work, but when things don't go as planned there are very few sources to go to for help..
Where as the Norton set is the most familiar set of stones to the most amount of Seasoned Honers, in fact most every Honemeister on the forum has used one or started with one so experienced help is but a post away...

I don't glue the sheets down. I use electrical tape, on one end of the sheet, to hold it to the base. That leaves the sheet free to wiggle, and stay flat on the base, instead of developing a bulge in front of the razor's edge. It forces me to use strokes in one direction (away from my body), and flip the razor over left-to-right, instead of longitudinally.

Certainly, it's a technique that's not "mainstream". I only have six razors that say "It works!", not the thousands of razors that say the same about Norton waterstones.

The principles of sharpening are the same, whether on stones or sandpaper. The edges develop in the same way, the problems of bevel-setting are equivalent, the progression through grits is similar. A lot of "beginner's learning" is the same with either medium.

I'm can see I'm going to have to buy a set of stones, to compare them to sandpaper myself, to gain some credibility in this discussion. The expense hurts.

The defense rests.

Charles

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

I only have six razors that say "It works!", not the thousands of razors that say the same about Norton waterstones.

The principles of sharpening are the same, whether on stones or sandpaper. The edges develop in the same way, the problems of bevel-setting are equivalent, the progression through grits is similar. A lot of "beginner's learning" is the same with either medium.

The defense rests.

Charles

Do you really want me to continue here???? I will if you insist...