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Thread: Mappin & Brother SR help
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10-27-2010, 11:03 AM #2
- Join Date
- Apr 2008
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- Essex, UK
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Thanked: 3164Hello Laurent!
Mappin & Webb have always been held in high regard for first-class jewellery and silverware. Although associated with the London premises, the company began life in Sheffield sometime around 1800. Joseph Mappin, an engraver, had two sons, one making a mint in brewing, the other (also called Joseph) as a maker of knives and razors in Norfolk Street, Sheffield with a partner - the company was called Arundel & Mappin. The sun trademark comes from this period and was granted in 1810.
Eventually Joseph Mappin (junior)'s son Frederick joined Arundel & Mappin. When Joseph Mappin (junior) died in 1841 Frederick took control of the company and soon employed his three younger brothers. In 1845 they took over William Sampson & Sons and in 1851 they opened the Queen's Cutlery works in Sheffield - one of the largest establishments in Sheffield. In the same year - 1851 - the firm was renamed Mappin Brothers.
Family disputes split the firm - Frederick left for a senior partnership in Thos Turton & Sons at the Sheath Works and his brother Newton founded Mappin & Webb in 1868. Mappin Brothers was still run by the two remaining brothers (Edward & Joseph), but it was in decline and taken over by an Irish company in the 1880s before being bought by Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. in 1899.
Newtons career was quite illustrious and he bought back Mappin Brothers from Goldsmiths & Silversmiths Co. in 1903. The company was absorbed into Mappin & Webb and by 1909 cutlery and knife manufacture slowed down and was eventually discontinued altogether.
The scales are most probably ivory - most of Mappins high-end razors were cased in ivory scales. If the scratches aren't to deep they can simply be sanded out - ivory is a real pleasure to work with and behaves much like a dense, fine-grained timber. Successive higher grits of sandpaper will get you to the point of a satiny shine, and buffing will restore the full glory of the ivory. Stains (other than surface grime and dirt) become embedded - especially around the pivot where they used thin brass washers that stain the ivory a greenish tinge if the razor isn't dried properly. Over-enthusiastic use of oil at the pivot area seeps into the ivory and gives it a semi translucent 'soapy' look - this is next to impossible to remove, too. Don't be tempted to use any harsh cleaners - lemon juice is OK so is toothpaste or a fine abrasive polish, but bleach and solvents can destroy the grain structure leaving the ivory wooly, dry and prone to split.
Regards,
Neil
Regards,
Neil
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The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to Neil Miller For This Useful Post:
AlanII (10-27-2010), BladeRunner001 (10-27-2010), Croaker (10-29-2010), JimmyHAD (10-27-2010), laurent (10-27-2010), manah (10-27-2010), RazorTalkin (10-30-2010), Slawman (11-18-2015)