Results 11 to 14 of 14
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11-05-2010, 02:18 AM #11
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
- Posts
- 160
Thanked: 2I've been looking at different grinds. What is the difference in the shave between them?
Thanks
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11-05-2010, 02:52 AM #12
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Location
- Maryland
- Posts
- 209
Thanked: 441st Razor Recommendations
I went through this too. Tried a whole bunch of things. In the end, I discovered I always had the easiest time plowing through the "tricky" and dense wiskers, got the closest shave, and got the least irritation - from the SHARPEST razor.
That said: I think the 5/8 size is SLIGHTLY easier for a beginner to use under their nose, and in the grooves along the throat. The 6/8 isn't hard though, and I like it's extra weight if I don't shave for a few days. I also find the round point is a LITTLE less scratchy when doing the grooves alongside my trachea. Everyplace else the tip made no difference to me at all.
I liked horn handles the best, and wood or plastic were tied for next best, but found bone handles to be heavy enough to cause the razor to rotate when I was rounding the jaw from the face to the neck or doing my chin (got a few nicks from too upright of an angle).
I also wouldn't recommend a smiling blade for a beginner. I honed in a SLIGHT smile after I'd been shaving for about 2 months, but had trouble using it and went back to straight. With a smile I'd often get a not-so-close shave on the sideburn-side edge of my face since the toe was up a tiny bit due to the smile. Also, I got several nicks since the middle was about 1 mm "deeper" than the heel and toe and without the heel & toe on my face there wasn't enough surface area for me to feel the edge when I set it down for the next stroke. None of this was hard to deal with after I had 5-6 months of practice, and then I found the slight smiles cuts wiskers better. But I still think it's best for a beginner to get their technique down before adding small complications.
ps: The Dovo Best Quality razors are not as ugly as you think. Many of the sites use pictures of an older model and look rough ground / not even polished. See the SRD sites picture of the 4/8 Dovo Best Quality. That's what they actually look like (in all sizes). The Special or Silver Steel are two other popular 1st razors. They look a little nicer, but shave the same as the Best Quality.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JohnG10 For This Useful Post:
binder (11-07-2010)
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11-07-2010, 12:12 AM #13
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Posts
- 1,377
Thanked: 275According to the barber textbook I found:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ng_Textbooks_1 961_Barbering_Text_-_Honing.pdf
on page 24 I says the edge should have a slight curve. Can someone comment on this, and
how does a person maintain this when honing?
A frowning edge (narrower at the middle, than at the toe and heel) is an abomination to hone. It's caused (I think!) by improper sharpening technique with a small hone - e.g., a "barber hone". The razor may shave fine, but honing it on a bench hone requires using the edge of the hone. I've been advised (by those with more experience) that it's a real PITA.
The easiest edge to maintain is dead straight:
. . . Constant width spine + flat hone ==> straight edge.
They shave fine, for most people.
Charles
PS -- I don't think the Dovo "Best Quality" is ugly _at all_. Razors are _tools_; "what makes a good razor" hasn't changed in 150 years. A new Dovo looks as good as any run-of-the-mill vintage razor, and probably has better quality control than most of them.
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The Following User Says Thank You to cpcohen1945 For This Useful Post:
binder (11-07-2010)
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11-07-2010, 02:32 AM #14
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
- Posts
- 160
Thanked: 2The straight edge seems the easiest for the beginning.
What are the different characteristics of shaving with the various grinds wedge to full hollow?
Thanks for the advice.