Thread: Why is it called a "starter razor"???

Originally Posted by BigJim

. . .

I'm looking for a razor to start with; what some might call a starter razor.
1. I'm looking for a razor that's of decent quality. It doesn't need to be flashy, showy, or expensive.
2. I want a razor that's truely ready to shave (not "shave ready" but ready to shave). That means A) I buy a razor and send it to a reputable honemiester, or B) I buy my "starter razor" from a reputable person who will ship it to me honed and ready to shave. I want this b/c while I've honed knives, I've never honed razors before and that's something I want to do, but not something I want to rely on myself for just starting out. Plus, I want this razor to serve as a base line to judge my eventual honing on (for that purpose I've bought another "category" of razor--a "practice razor" we can define those in another thread)
3. I want a razor that I can round over, chip, break, ruin without it ruining my day/week/month or longer. I've got a couple family heirloom razors coming my way. They aren't starters simply because I'd hate it if I ruined my great great grandfather's razor doing something stupid simply b/c I didn't know better. That's why I wouldn't consider an expensive razor a starter either, just for how I'd feel if I broke it out of ignorance/lack of experience.

That's it for a "starter razor"--something that is truely ready for me to start with.

Then there's a list of personal preferences.
Personally,
I'm hoping to find a bigger razor. I'm 6'4" with big hands and hate fiddling with tiny instruments. I'll have an easier time controling something that fits my hands.

I'm aslo hoping to find a heavier razor. I have thick whiskers, both lots of whiskers close together, but each individual is also very thick and stiff.

To that end a wedge or a wider razor will be a good thing, I think.

Lastly, I'm looking for a starter razor that's cheap. It doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to do a good job. It doesn't need to have fancy details or a big time name. I've got a wife and three kids--their groceries, doctor's apts, and warmth are more important than the shape of my neck (which is why I'm getting in to straights). In this regard the cheaper the better so long as it qualifies for my first three points of a "starter razor".

Might be wrong, but for someone looking for a starter razor, this is where I'm at.

FWIW --

I think that Straight Razor Designs has some reasonably-priced ( < $100 ) Dovo razors with 6/8" blades and round points. The Dovo "Best Quality" that I have has a fairly heavy grind, nowhere near "full hollow" -- it's got some heft to it.

That might be a good place to start, with a new razor.

There are any number of vintage razors that fit your specs, from $35 (at WhippedDog.Com) and up. The vintage market might be a better place to find "near-wedge" blades.

Charles

Perhaps people are just referencing the SRP wiki:

What makes a good starter razor?
Size = 6/8
A wider blade is easier to keep flat on the strop, which is very important for a beginner. 6/8 is also dead center on the size chart, so you can decide which direction to go on your second razor. Finally, it has some heft for those less than confident first strokes, and is still easy to handle.
Grind = Half hollow
Again dead center on the chart, so you can decide which direction to go after your first razor. A half hollow grind offers enough heft for beginner shaving, yet also has some flexibility for comfort.
Round point
A round point is a little safer, anyway, not a lot but every little bit helps at first.

Frequently Asked Questions - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Eventually, with experience, I'm pretty sure everyone will begin to see how silly it is to recommend a half-hollow 6/8 razor in order to try and quantify a "starter razor".

But, since they are not very common this will make all the advice to beginners so much easier. We can just tell them they bought the wrong razor and by the time they figure it out they'll have solved their own problems.

Originally Posted by cpcohen1945

FWIW --

I think that Straight Razor Designs has some reasonably-priced ( < $100 ) Dovo razors with 6/8" blades and round points. The Dovo "Best Quality" that I have has a fairly heavy grind, nowhere near "full hollow" -- it's got some heft to it.

That might be a good place to start, with a new razor.

There are any number of vintage razors that fit your specs, from $35 (at WhippedDog.Com) and up. The vintage market might be a better place to find "near-wedge" blades.

Charles

I had one I wanted to pick up from WD but it had just been picked up, as had my second choice. His inventory's down right now, but hopefully when he gets back from vacation he'll put some more up there. He's my number one choice for picking up a "starter razor" because his razors meet my 3 criteria. Thanks for the feedback.

"starter razor" is just a marketing term used to increase page views.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Eventually, with experience, I'm pretty sure everyone will begin to see how silly it is to recommend a half-hollow 6/8 razor in order to try and quantify a "starter razor".

Please enlighten me, I'm new. 6/8" would be a razor ths is 3/4"wide, correct? So, 4/8 is 0.5" and 5/8" is 1/8" wider than a 1/2" width (spine to blade). I have heard that full hollow ground are good choice as they are move "flexing" for the face as comparted to those that are less than full hollow ground. Is this true? So, one that is half-hollow in 6/8 would be larger diamter (thickness) of the blade further down and sill be a bit above a 5/8 razor. The 5/8 seem to be a common size of razors.

What is the opinion of 10/16 or 11/16 razors?

Originally Posted by Gibbs

Please enlighten me, I'm new. 6/8" would be a razor ths is 3/4"wide, correct? So, 4/8 is 0.5" and 5/8" is 1/8" wider than a 1/2" width (spine to blade). I have heard that full hollow ground are good choice as they are move "flexing" for the face as comparted to those that are less than full hollow ground. Is this true? So, one that is half-hollow in 6/8 would be larger diamter (thickness) of the blade further down and sill be a bit above a 5/8 razor. The 5/8 seem to be a common size of razors.

What is the opinion of 10/16 or 11/16 razors?

The size of razors are are generally given in 8's of an inch. Some people have used 16's to 'enhance' their conversations but I would stick to 8's, and it's a general measurement in that it is not an exact measurement. You will also hear that a certain grind is preferred by someone. In the end, you are the one to make that decision. I started with full hollows but like all of them. Diameter is a measurement of round objects and razors are not round. In general, the thickness of the razor on 1/4 hollows is greater than on full hollows. Check the WIKI, there is a grind chart somewhere. If all things (measurements) were the same except the grind, wedges would be the heaviest, 1/4 hollows next, 1/2 hollows after them and so on. Hope this helps

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

But, since they are not very common this will make all the advice to beginners so much easier. We can just tell them they bought the wrong razor and by the time they figure it out they'll have solved their own problems.

One of the very few times I would beg to differ, They are quite Common as Dovo makes them so does TI...

Keep in mind that the "Starter" razor guides are simply that, it is not a rule nor a requirement...


Gibbs sizes we have seen stamped on actual vintage boxes are what we go by, the actual measurements of the razors can vary as it seems there is no "Set" measuring standard...

I have personally seen boxes with 3/8 4/8 9/16 5/8 11/16 6/8 13/16 7/8 8/8 and that is it, never seen any others in my hands

Glen,

I stand corrected. When I read 6/8 and the requirement for half hollow I could only think of a few TIs.

I prefer Dovos anyway, but I only use advanced straight razors.