Thread: Grind and closeness of shave?

Hi!

This is my first post here on SRP.
I've got question someone may have encountered, or maybe somebody has insight.

A little background:
I've been shaving with straights for five or six years. Until recently, I've only used one razor: a Dianne No. 21 pictured below:



I picked this razor up to start with for $2.99. Blades were $2.00 for 5 blade inserts at a local cutlery in Oakland, CA. Obviously, its a disposable, but it was a cheap alternative to modern multi-blade safety razors.

I recently picked up a few "real" blades. One is a Henckles Twin Works, 5/8" spike, the other is a Barber's Pet 5/8" spike, purchased from our very own Stimpy (thanks man!). Both of these blades are full hollow ground, and sharp as the dickens.
However! I injured my hand a few days ago, and couldn't do the daily shave, so I had a bit of growth. Started my shave with my Barber's Pet, but the blade was pulling a LOT, so I figured I'd give the Dianne a shot. WOW.
That razor brought my face to forehead smooth.

I don't believe any of the blades to be notably sharper than the others, and the only variable I've cited in the equation is stiffness of the blade. Both the Henckles and Barber's Pet are full hollow ground and have a little flex to em. The Diane is stiff as a corpse and does not bend at all.

I guess the question here is: does the grind of the blade affect the quality of the shave? Could my technique be poor, or is there different technique for different grinds/razors?

Any insight and/or experience would be warmly welcomed. Today I got the shave I've been chasing, and I'd love to maintain this!

Hi there,

I had a similar question a short while ago that was phrased differently, but I believe you may be interested in the responses.
The tread can be found here: http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ns-please.html

Hope this helps.

I personally find that the grind makes no difference to the shave. I get just as good a shave from a 7/8 W&B wedge as a little Sheffield 4/8 hollow. As long as they're honed right, stropped right and looked after they'll all shave you just as well as the other.

Disposables can sometimes feel sharper because the blades are coated in teflon to reduce drag. Prep and technique definately also make a difference with a true straight, which I dont find as much with disposable blades. You have to up your prep a notch with a proper straight to really get the best out of it. I find that prep doesnt matter so much with my DE but boy do I notice it with my straights if I dont get it right..!

Yes, in short your answer is your technique is the problem. Unless the razors aren't shave ready of course. Your face only sees the very edge of the razor. it's doesn't know what the rest looks like.

Thank you for all the insight and suggestions thus far!

Originally Posted by Stubear

I personally find that the grind makes no difference to the shave. I get just as good a shave from a 7/8 W&B wedge as a little Sheffield 4/8 hollow. As long as they're honed right, stropped right and looked after they'll all shave you just as well as the other.

Disposables can sometimes feel sharper because the blades are coated in teflon to reduce drag. Prep and technique definately also make a difference with a true straight, which I dont find as much with disposable blades. You have to up your prep a notch with a proper straight to really get the best out of it. I find that prep doesnt matter so much with my DE but boy do I notice it with my straights if I dont get it right..!

Hmm..
I'm not sure if these blades are teflon coated, but that suggestion makes a lot of sense to me.
Perhaps my prep routine isn't as good as it could be.
I've been using Col. Conks shaving soap, and I can usually cop a pretty good thick lather with it. I'm sure there are a million subtleties I'm not aware of here, but the lather seems good to me. It does take a bit to wash off after the shave, maybe I'm using too much soap?
What could I do to improve my prep?

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

Yes, in short your answer is your technique is the problem. Unless the razors aren't shave ready of course. Your face only sees the very edge of the razor. it's doesn't know what the rest looks like.

I suspected technique could be a (if not THE) problem, as I'm new to using a real straight.
Are there any obvious major differences in shave technique between using the Diane disposable and a real straight?
I'm all ears, and would really like to improve my skills.

Originally Posted by TheNameIsJack

I suspected technique could be a (if not THE) problem, as I'm new to using a real straight.
Are there any obvious major differences in shave technique between using the Diane disposable and a real straight?
I'm all ears, and would really like to improve my skills.

How do you get the Carnegie Hall? You've had more practice with the Diane, I'd guess you're better with it. Can't give any tips as I am unfamiliar with it. Good luck.

Prefernce.
Thats all.
I like em both, but totaly different face feel.
I've heard some guys with stiff stubble prefer the stiffer grind.

I've never used a disposable but I know they can be very unforgiving so you need to be careful and use a very light touch. A straight is no different but straight is more forgiving so if you stray you are apt to have less a chance of getting bitten-to a point. In general the technique for shaving is the same it's more a little tweaking here and there with larger and heavier razors.

I have a tool like the one you pictured above, but it's not meant for a real shave. Rather, it's a hair trimmer. Meant to cut hair very short, easier than scissors. I use it to trim my goatee to the right length.

The Diane No. 21 was my first disposable, then I bought a Shavette, and a Feather. Additionally, I picked up a variety of fixed straight razors and slowly started to stop using any disposable blades over time.

You can not beat the cost effectiveness of the Diane No. 21 as I wanted to try straight shaving without the traditional start up costs. The blades I used for the Diane No. 21 was stiff, thick, and teflon coated. The bevel on it was huge and the angle of attack for cutting came at a slighly different angle than fixed straights, thus its cutting action was a bit different that what I experienced with fixed straight razors.

Why did the disposable straight razors fall to the way side? I preferred these disposable blades on their 2nd and 3rd shave. The forth was so/so and the fifth was unacceptable. With a fixed straight razor, I can get the blade performance to match up to my best comfort zone and have it everytime I shave by maintaining it with a strop, pasted strop, and honing stones. It became a drag to have to tolerate the performance of the disposable blades on its 1st, and 4th use. I got a little more out of the feather blades, but it was more the same feeling.

Faceprep, skill level, and the condition of the edges are usually the variables everyone works on. The more experienced I became, the better performance I got out of my Diane No. 21. Sometimes, I feel tempted to use it for kicks, but then I decide to reach for my fixed straight razors.

Also, I have to add that I never used those shaving guards for the Diane No. 21 and never will.

Hopefully this helps some and keep you moving up the learning curve.

Pabster