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Thread: Gun oil vs WD-40

  1. #11
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    I would consider using Birchwood-Casey Barricade. It is a metal preservative that also contains a water-displacing agent. It dries to a film which is easily removed with rubbing alcohol. It's available in small quantities at many gun shops.

    http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/news/9588.html

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  3. #12
    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    I've fallen in Love with Ballistol!! It's been use in Europe for about 90 years!!! if you pour some into a small glass and add water, it 'mixes' into it, it doesn't just rise to the surface!!

    ETom tells me that he uses it on 'Everything'!! Razors, All Weapons etc!!

    With that said: To each their own!
    Our house is as Neil left it- an Aladdin’s cave of 'stuff'.

    Kim X

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  5. #13
    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    Tuf-Glide is a gun lubricant, so I guess it is a brand of gun oil.

    If you can't find gun oil in Tonga, try using a light coat of mineral oil on the blades of your razors.
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

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  7. #14
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Personally, I wouldn't trust anything to prevent rust especially somewhere like Tonga. I would regularly check the razors & replace whatever coating you use. If I had to be away from the razors I would pop the scales off & store the razors submerged in oil or some kind of coating that blocked air contact.
    I'm sure the Alembic cases are great but those dessicant packs work by absorbing water in the air of which you have plenty, right ? Average humidity would be what ? 70%-90% ? I reckon those packs would need recharging in the oven or microwave regularly. If you use humidity indicators in the case you can keep an eye on what's happening. You won't necessarily get rust at 50% humidity but that also depends on the coating on the blade.

    If you only have WD40 I would be recoating on a weekly basis but I prefer products with more oil content. I use an Aussie made spay called Inox. It doesn't wash off with water. Inox-MX3
    Last edited by onimaru55; 07-18-2011 at 03:13 AM.
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  9. #15
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    What about coconut oil?
    Mineral oil is good.
    I see that the temps and humidity in Tonga are a little lower than in Georgia, USA during the summer. The difference being that the temps/humidity range less during the year in Tonga, than in GA.
    I use Ballistol, and mineral oil on my straights and the Georgia humidity hasn't hurt them yet.

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  11. #16
    Ooo Shiny cannonfodder's Avatar
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    Give them a polish with some MAAS to clean them up good, then wipe them down with a silicone gun cloth. Put them in an air tight container with a desiccant pack and you will be just fine.

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  13. #17
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paco664 View Post
    wd-40 is NOT a lube......... repeat that 40 times.....

    it stands for "water displacement formula #40".........

    please don't coat anything you love with this stuff.......

    you CAN however use breakfree CLP....
    +1
    Yes what he said...

    It does displace water in the pivot and
    on the surface of the steel. That can
    help especially when followed by a
    people safe oil...

    This is a topic where a lot of people
    have history with this product and
    know from personal experience if it
    is suitable for their environment and uses.

    The WD-40 FAQ is interesting
    note the "additional applications"
    bit.... this implies (to me) that long term
    storage needs help.

    WD-40 Frequently Asked Questions

    Q: How long does WD-40 last after application?
    A: While this may vary depending on the application, WD-40 remains effective even after
    it appears to dry. The corrosion and rust protection ingredients remain adhered to the
    surface. External conditions may, of course, require additional applications of WD-40 for
    maximum protection.

    =====================
    Read more about "breakfree CLP"
    Break-Free®

    I hope I said that WD-40 needs help for
    long term storage... CLP is one good
    choice to evaluate.
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  15. #18
    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    PaulKidd,

    If specialist preservatives are hard to come by in Tonga, you could try using motor oil as as a preservative; it contains detergents, corrosion inhibitors etc, and can do a fine job and is usually very available

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ
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  17. #19
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    WD-40 has some harsh chemicals in it that I would not trust on some scales like bone or whatever. The best single step application thus far is Corrosion-X. It displaces water, bonds with metal and gives a protective barrier against rust. It is not toxic and food grade. Take a look at it on line. I have been using this stuff for guns and other fine pieces of steel for over a decade and it performs excellently. There are different thicknesses that you can obtain and for long time storage I would get the thick stuff. Just as a side note do not use on a new gun like an automatic because it will not break in, it lubes that well.

    Take Care,
    Richard

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  19. #20
    Senior Member BanjoTom's Avatar
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    Ballistol or rig, either is well reommended. I learned about rig when I was in the Marine Corps. It is a splended product, but you might not like the smell. Some of the guys here use ballistol, I have purchased a razor which had been covered with it and I like this product very much. Besides being a great protectant, no petroleum smell.
    cudarunner likes this.

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