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08-05-2011, 01:30 AM #21
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Thanked: 443Varnishing the steel would protect you at the outer surface, but not if any moisture managed to wick in past the wedge. Plus, you'll have your blade resting on the hinge pin. If the blade hole is big enough for a brass sleeve that might reduce your trouble there. You can also treat the tang and hole with tuf-glide for some longer-term waterproofing.
I don't know how fast this corrosion would happen, just that it would eventually. If it gets bad you can always re-pin it then.
I've seen extra-hard copper wire for special wiring applications, "hard drawn" they called it. It has much greater tensile strength and is probably what you want for your rivets, if you go that way. Might be hard to find in 1/16" diameter. Do you have a source for it?"These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."
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08-05-2011, 01:53 AM #22
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08-18-2011, 02:22 AM #23
I'm not too happy with the job I did pinning it... I made the pivot too short, so the tip hits the wedge. :/
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08-18-2011, 03:52 AM #24
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Thanked: 443Nice looking scales, though. Can you unpin the wedge and shorten it enough? Otherwise, you could build another set of scales and use these for your next blade.
Have you handled, say, 12AWG copper wire? How hard was your copper rod compared to that?
p.s. I like the shape of that tip a lot.Last edited by roughkype; 08-18-2011 at 03:55 AM.
"These aren't the droids you're looking for." "These aren't the droids we're looking for." "He can go about his business." "You can go about your business."
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08-18-2011, 04:11 AM #25
I already did shorten the wedge as much as I can. its going to need a whole new set of scales. part of it is that I expected to lose more of the tip in the re-grind, and part of it is that I just didn't do so great on my first attempt.
the rod is about the same stiffness as 12AWG.