Thread: Back after a few year break

I just recently found my old straight razors and decided to give them a try again. I love the clean feel - and wanted to pick up a few new razors.

I have a dovo - prima klang - think its 5/8. Its the singing type?

I forget alot about what i learned - but i do have a few questions.

The dovo singing blade - feels very thin - and when going against the grain - it seems to be a little too painful.

is that bc it isnt sharp enough?

I was looking at a few razors at classic shaving and straight razor designs - but i think i wanted a "heavier" feeling razor --- maybe a 7/8 or 8/8 spike point?

I had a Thiers Issard once but seem to have lost it -- and i think i preferred it over the dovo...

Any recommendations for my next shaver?
not sure if i dont like the dovo? or if its just that model? or even if it isnt sharp enough and thats skewing my visions of them?

Also - they didnt have stainless steel razors back in the day. Are those relatively new? or do they offer any advantages over carbon steel?

im guessing carbon steel would be easier to sharpen hone, but wont hold the edge as long?

while stainless probably harder to sharpen but holds its edges?

i have a few strops - but im not really comfortable sharpening myself.

are the boker razors nice? what about hart steel? TI still make good stuff? or is it all just personal preference?

thanks in advance for all the help and opinions - im going to go back and read some of the FAQ and articles to catch up.

Hello welcome back

So many questions asked.

First make sure that You get Your razor really sharp. Untill You feel secure in doing it Yourself, better send it to somebody who knows how to do it. If not shaving will be unpleasant and You´ll probably lose interest again.
You should not try to shave against the grain at first. Nevertheless if it is painfull, Your razor is presumably not sharp enough. Stainless steel razors exist a long time but it has it´s reasons that most razors are still made from carbon steel. It can be quite difficult to get a good edge on a stainless blade. Unless You live in a very humid enviroment and have problems with rust, better stick to the carbon steel ones. The edgeholding should not be a problem and would not be a reason to get a stainles razor for me. That does not mean that I do not have some stainles ones. In particular the vintage J. A. Henckels are great, but I would not recommend them in first place.
The old Bökers are first class razors, the new ones are not bad either as far as I have heard without owning one myself. As far as my knowledge goes, Böker does not make the rasors anymore but like Puma gets them from another Solingen company.
TI focuses more on the high price razors while Dovo also has offers in the "lower" range.
Both make quality razors but You can not be shure that You get them shave ready from the factory.
I belive if sharpened well a 50 $ Dovo can give You a shave that is as smooth as a 300 $ TI.

thanks doc!

i had sent it out to be sharpened two years ago - and i strop lightly.

i think my technique for stropping is good as i pay pretty close attention.

that being said - wahile the dovo singing blade - just feels really light and thin- i shave with the grain, across the grain, then against - its while going against - close to my chin and main beard that it hurts the most - and it doesnt glide very well.

thats why i wanted to look at heavier blades - that are slightly bigger.

im going to send my dovo out - is straight razor designs the best place to do that?
as i saw they had a good variety of "professionally sharpened blades" i may pick up one or two from there while im at it - but i didnt see any TI blades there... only boker and dovo.

can anyone recommend a heavy, larger 7/8 8/8 blade for an amateur? or should i stick to a 5/8?

should i get a 1/4 grind or half hollow? the full hollow of the dovo seems thin - and i think it would be better for sturdiness?

thanks everyone

so reading the FAQ - ive found that my blade exhibits a poor edge - it does pull and scratch - and i would think a straight razor should just glide over hair.

Welcome back to SRP. I think as a beginning shaver a 5/8 or a 6/8 is a good choice. Just more easily maneuverable. After you get your sea legs under you, figuratively speaking, try a 7 or an 8/8. I think a 1/4 or half hollow is a good choice. The new TI silverwing oak leaf is a great razor but a bit pricey. I shaved with mine for the fifth or sixth time today and it was great. SRD is a good place to send your razor for honing IME. As far as whether a straight razor should just glide over the skin, slicing the hair ..... well yes IF you have the technique down. Blade angle, skin stretching, lathering and preparation all enter into it. Not to mention stropping and maintenance.

thanks for your input jimmy.

i saw that silverwing it is pretty!

Im at classicshaving right now - can you explain why the profdessionally honed bismarck is less expensive than the factory edge bismarck?

wouldnt you want a professional hone?

i like the look of the bismarck...

i think my technique is good - i met lynn years ago and he went through basics - stropping -etc.

was thinking instead of getting a really expensive razor (300$) i would get two mid priced razors (120-150) and keep one professionally honed - and use the other...

i think i could send them out to be honed every year? or is 6 months a better date to hone?

For going against the grain, you should be holding the blade _almost flat_ against your skin.

If you use the same blade angle as you do for with the grain, the beard hairs will catch the razor and force it into your skin -- it'll "catch", and you'll likely get either razor burn or cuts.

The "Prima Klang" is _supposed_ to be an ultra-thin blade. But that shouldn't cause any problems -- if it's sharp, it should cut ATG just fine.

A full description of Dovo's "Best Quality" razor grinds and widths (the most complete that I've seen):

Dovo "Best Quality" Straight Razors

SRD should have a good selection, as well.


Charles


Charles

PS -- Or, the blade may be dull !

Originally Posted by mbuemi1577

was thinking instead of getting a really expensive razor (300$) i would get two mid priced razors (120-150) and keep one professionally honed - and use the other...

i think i could send them out to be honed every year? or is 6 months a better date to hone?

That is a good plan. Give Don a call at SRD and he can tell you which of the Dovos is full hollow, 1/4 or half .... I'm not familiar with the line well enough to know. Lynn hones for SRD and since you've met him personally I needn't tell you what a great guy he is.

Why Classic would want more for a non honed razor than for a honed one is beyond me. Maybe a typo ? How long a razor will go before it needs to be touched up again is too variable to put a number on it IMO.

thanks fellas - got a few picked out- ill call SRD tomorrow.

i was holding the blade angled when i go against, across, and with the grain -- same angle for each pass. that could be the problem too. I am still going to send this out to be professionally honed.

that way i can be sure its not he blade but my technique

ordered a couple razors from SRD - Boker Edelweiss - and a DOVO 5/8 Bone.

Ive always liked the look of a French Point - Im looking for a Le Grelot - 1/4 ground with a point on it. if anyone sees one let me know - I think a point and a heavier blade will suit my amateur shaving skills!