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Thread: Henry Harrington Razor, America's first cutlery manufacturer

  1. #11
    Senior Member ajkenne's Avatar
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    Default Photos of Henry Harrington Refurbished

    Well, I finished up the restoration. Ended up having to rescale it but tried to stay with the original design and materials. Used cow bone and it seems to give it a nice yellow tone, similar to the original scales. Reused three of the original washers, the original horn wedge, and pinned it with silver nickel. I removed all of the rust but left the watermarks in tact which shows its age. Hope to take out the small nick on the tip of the blade when I hone it. Should be a good shaver for my rotation.
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    Last edited by ajkenne; 12-22-2011 at 08:57 PM.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    Very nicely done and I think it's great that you stayed with the original design as much as possible. Quite a unique blade design too. Keep them coming!
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    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

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    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajkenne View Post
    Thanks. I have tried the MAAS for about 3-4 hours and most of the rust has come off. Starting to look good and glad I waited on the sandpaper. May still have to use a very fine grit to so the final clean up. Agree with you estimate on age as pre 1850 closer to 1830 but even that is hard to say with an American blade. It is a very thin razor, has a short tail, and seems to be stainless steel. Believe as you suggest that scales are bone rather than ivory. Probably cow bone with its yellow vice white hue of camel. Believe I try to duplicate the damaged scale and fabricate the missing washer. Believe I could do it. Anybody have a similar replacement washer?
    I have a stub I am restoring. Could you detail the blade rust removal technique? I like how yours finished up.

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    Senior Member ajkenne's Avatar
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    It really depends on how much rust you have. If it is heavy rust with deep pits I'll use my buffing wheel applying either a brush-on compound starting at LB 150, LB320, then LB 600 or the greaseless compound Satin Glo using progressive grit from 180, 240, 400, 600. At that point I then move to the hard solid block white rubbing compound and finish up with the green high gloss. All of this is available from Jantz Suppy Co. or other knife repair companies, such as Texas Knife Supply, etc. Google either to find their site.

    For this particular razor all I had to so was use a little white compound and finished it of with MAAS. Didn't want to take much off nor to shine it up too much as I wanted to retain most of its patina. Hope this helps.

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    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajkenne View Post
    It really depends on how much rust you have. If it is heavy rust with deep pits I'll use my buffing wheel applying either a brush-on compound starting at LB 150, LB320, then LB 600 or the greaseless compound Satin Glo using progressive grit from 180, 240, 400, 600. At that point I then move to the hard solid block white rubbing compound and finish up with the green high gloss. All of this is available from Jantz Suppy Co. or other knife repair companies, such as Texas Knife Supply, etc. Google either to find their site.

    For this particular razor all I had to so was use a little white compound and finished it of with MAAS. Didn't want to take much off nor to shine it up too much as I wanted to retain most of its patina. Hope this helps.
    Overall not alot of rust, though a couple of "clumps".
    I would like to leave a patina look like yours.
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...ed-please.html

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    Senior Member ajkenne's Avatar
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    Wow what a great stub tail razor! That is a real beauty. I would not start with the buffer regrind... this will need some hand sanding and I would proceed very slowly with this project. The progressive hand sanding I do is similar to what havachat34 suggests to Ryanjewell's similar restore (links in in your string). I use a small stick with leather attached to one end to do my progressive sanding (finger safety). Use same tool for the MAAS polishing. How far you take this is up to your own taste. I would not shine this up too much as it took years to get this beautiful patina. Great find....

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...lp-needed.html

    I would do my best to restore those beautiful horn scales and original washers. Layering with CA glue and a 24 hour soaking in neatsfoot oil, then a good overall progressive sanding would bring these beauties back to life. See this recent posting on repair of delaminating scales for details.

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...nd-scales.html

    Can't help much with your ID/maker. Age I'd say is about 1820s or so based on the shape of the tang. Could be earlier but that would be my guess.
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    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
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    I am taking this so slow I havent even started yet.
    Unfortunately the rear scale was so brittle and bug bitten it broke. But
    I will attempt to restore the front scale.
    Definitely going to hand restore this one.

  10. #18
    Senior Member ajkenne's Avatar
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    That happens a lot when removing pins especially those with worm holes and those that are delaminating. Just part of the process. I try to save all the parts, replace parts from the period if possible, otherwise new scales, collars/pins similar to the originals. Just a thought and best of luck with your restore. Pls post a picture when finished. It will be a beauty!

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