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  1. #1
    Junior Member STRATOS's Avatar
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    Default Problem with honning JA Henckels Friodur 7/8 NOS

    Hello everybody!

    Before a couple of months i buy from ebay a JA HENCKELS FRIODUR 7/8 FRIODUR with decorative spine NOS, (i see that many members have the same one to them collection),
    But i have some issues that i want to discussing with you and if possible to help me.
    1) The thickness of the spine is bigger near to the shoolder
    2) The gritting of the spine is not continued evenly up to the point that shoolder start.
    the above make the razor to not contact correct up to the hone(norton 4000/8000)
    when all spine contact to the hone fm the point that shoolder start, or fm the point that gritting start, the toe and the middle of the edge is in contact with the hone but the back point of the edge and a big part of them is on air(not contact), if i try to contact all the edge up to the hone, the spine near the toe comming on air all this make me to afraid and i dont start any honning progress.
    -Is there anyone with this kind of issues?
    -This razor is needed a more narrow hone maybe?
    -How you honed this razor with regular x stroke, 45 degree x stroke or swooping x stroke?
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  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    It sounds like the blade may have a slight warp, which is not uncommon from all brands of razors. To hone it tip the toe up a little off the hone and do an x stroke off the side of the hone until you reach the middle of the blade and then lay the blade flat on the hone to finish the stroke off the side of the hone. Be careful not to let the razor slip off the side of the hone. You will need to do tis type of stroke on all hones. Good luck.
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

  3. #3
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    To confirm that you are doing the stroke that JoeD described correctly and getting the entire edge evenly, try what is called "The Magic Marker Test"...
    Color the edge of the razor with a dark color magic marker (black is usually easiest) then do the stroke that Joe described a few times on the hone, stop and look to make sure that the entire edge is hitting the hone... The marker will show you how even your stroke is

  4. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    FWIW, I have to do that on one of my costly Wackers also. 'Still takes a fabulous edge and gives a wonderful shave.

  5. #5
    Junior Member STRATOS's Avatar
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    Thanks all for your quick response!
    Joed the blade is not wrapped i dont know if any photo confused you, i have a wrapped razor and i know how it is,
    this phenomenon i described - ("when all spine contact to the hone fm the point that shoolder start, or fm the point that gritting start, the toe and the middle of the edge is in contact with the hone but the back point of the edge and a big part of them is on air(not contact), if i try to contact all the edge up to the hone, the spine near the toe comming on air all this make me to afraid and i dont start any honning progress")-
    is from both sides, and is no so understand it with eye but you feel it with finger that the back part of edge is not in contact.
    (also i try one two passes from hone and i see that near toe edge is coming more shiny that easy easy disapeared as comming near the shoolder-again from both sides)
    appreciate your opinions and waiting more opinions

  6. #6
    Not with my razor 🚫 SirStropalot's Avatar
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    Stratos, I may be missing something in your explanation, but having a new razor doesn't mean it's not warped. Your explanation does sound like a warped blade. I would take joed and gssixgun's suggestions and try the marker test. Regards, Howard

  7. #7
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    From the description:

    . . . I think that the width of the blade is constant, toe-to-heel, but

    . . . the thickness of the spine is _not_ constant, toe-to-heel.

    That's not a "warp". I can see how it could make honing difficult.

    If the edge is straight (not warped, no smile, no frown):

    . . . It may be possible to just lay the blade on a hone, and use a straight "heel-leading" stroke. The bevel angle will be set by the thickest part of the spine.

    The spine, near the toe, will be off the hone during that stroke.

    Charles

    PS -- I have never honed such a pretty razor, and I will now shut up.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to cpcohen1945 For This Useful Post:

    STRATOS (12-12-2011)

  9. #8
    Junior Member STRATOS's Avatar
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    I think that the width of the blade is constant, toe-to-heel, but

    . . . the thickness of the spine is _not_ constant, toe-to-heel.

    That's not a "warp". I can see how it could make honing difficult.
    cpcohen1945 you are totally right..you understand exactly the situation,,,,(this uneven spine thickness fm toe to the point that shoolder start make the back part of blade to come up)

    If the edge is straight (not warped, no smile, no frown):
    The edge is not warped no frown...but as i see the razor give me the sense that spine and edge is slightly smilling.

    . . It may be possible to just lay the blade on a hone, and use a straight "heel-leading" stroke. The bevel angle will be set by the thickest part of the spine.

    The spine, near the toe, will be off the hone during that stroke.
    your idea is very good and it was also in my mind but it is little a bit risky and i am not a pro on honning.

  10. #9
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    Correct the spine:


  11. #10
    Junior Member STRATOS's Avatar
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    Correct the spine:
    Great job.. shaved i think that is the ultimate sollution

    How you make that???

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