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Thread: good or bad idea for preservation?

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I love Renwax,is great stuff for alot of applications and am sure it protects metal to a point.
    Here is a little experiment I did,took an old High carbon steel blade,cleaned it with Acetone,left side of tape applied 3 coats of renwax,rgt side a lgt coat of mineral oil,left it outside on the fence for two mos.
    Blade was rust and spot free prior to living outside,totally unscientific for sure.
    Draw your own conclusions.(black pits on the lower edge were not removed pre treatment)
    Last edited by pixelfixed; 02-23-2012 at 12:11 PM.

  2. #12
    Senior Member danielghofrani's Avatar
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    wow! mineral oil seems to have done better.
    I wish you had a picture of the blade before the experiment as well.
    but I am hurting that you left a W&B outside!!!

  3. #13
    Senior Member Durhampiper's Avatar
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    If you want a somewhat more elegant solution, you might have a look at the AlembiCase, made and sold by fellow member Alembic. Here's the link: http://straightrazorpalace.com/vendo...lembicase.html
    "If you ever get the pipes in good chune, your troubles have just begun."--Seamus Ennis

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  5. #14
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Sounds like a care and storage problem daniel. I live in houston with VERY high humidity. I have zero problem with rust/tarnish. after each shave I fold over a piece of TP and wipe from the spine end, let dry open in a stand. After that I give it a wipe with TP that has camellia oil on it. Store in a case in the bedroom after. I hardly ever get the scales wet or the pivot area. The key here is care of the razor. I rinse it off with HOT tap water after the shave on just the blade part.
    Hope that helps.

    Paul
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  6. #15
    Thread derailment specialist. Wullie's Avatar
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    One thing comes to my mind and that is what kind of heat do you have in your house. Some combustion byproducts will tarnish bare steel.

    Are you located near an area with any kind of heavy industry like a mill or maybe a coal fired power plant?

    There may be something in your water as well that starts the process even though you have dried the razor.

    Just shooting in the dark here but thought I'd toss it out there for consideration.

    I'm in Texas and have electric heat. No problems with staining on a bare steel on my users. I keep the rest of them oiled when not in the rotation.

  7. #16
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    Hey There!
    I should think that the cotton sheath would solve this problem. This is because not only will the cotton wick moisture away from the razor, it will allow the moisture to be expelled through evaporation from the surface of the cotton. There will be a similar humidity maintained inside the cotton sheath to the room in which it is located. This should really solve your problem my friend
    Any Q's Just ask

    Carl.

  8. #17
    Obsessive compulsive EisenFaust's Avatar
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    No-ones mentioned tuf-glide yet (or the tuf-cloth). With either its just as easy as wiping once - no messy oils, buffing (like with Ren Wax) etc. It dries fast too (spirit based).

  9. #18
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by EisenFaust View Post
    No-ones mentioned tuf-glide yet (or the tuf-cloth). With either its just as easy as wiping once - no messy oils, buffing (like with Ren Wax) etc. It dries fast too (spirit based).
    I put a drop in the pivot area when I first get a new razor. I don't recomend it only for the price
    "We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."

  10. #19
    Senior Member danielghofrani's Avatar
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    Thanks for the recommendations. what is is Tuf-glide? I should check it out. most of my problems are in the pivot area as well.

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