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Thread: Rust
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03-01-2012, 08:46 PM #1
Rust
Hi guys, I have some razors which have some rust.
What is the best way to remove it? Some blades have engraving etc so I don't want to remove it but I do want to remove the rust.
Any secrets?
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03-01-2012, 08:47 PM #2
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Thanked: 46I was told..if its "active"..orange in color..sand it away..if its been there for sometime..I have used jewelery polish..works well
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03-01-2012, 08:59 PM #3
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Thanked: 1587Yes, your only option is abrasion - it really is just a matter of how coarse or fine you need to go. Best bet is to start fine (eg try metal polish) and see how you go from there You say engraving etc.... that "etc" doesn't include gold wash does it? Any abrasive will remove the gold wash, so be careful if you razor has some unless you don't care if it goes.
Once it is fixed up, of course, the best way to deal with rust is studious avoidance!!
James.<This signature intentionally left blank>
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03-01-2012, 09:03 PM #4
No gold wash but in my other post I listed them pics to be added soon
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03-01-2012, 11:38 PM #5
Like they start start conservative. Maybe some quality metal polish like Maas or Simichrome and if need be Cape Cod Polishing Cloths and after that some fine sand paper. If the conservative stuff doesn't work you run the risk of taking the engraving off. For precision removal I have a scratch pen made for watch repair that has thin flexible glass that can be used to take rust off in tiny areas.
No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero
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03-02-2012, 04:21 AM #6
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- Feb 2012
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Thanked: 2Mechanical methods would be the last resort in my book. Soak with Kroil-Oil (you'll pay for it at Napa - Midway USA is fairly cheap...great penetrating oil) and surface rust should wipe right off. For heavier rust, use Naval Jelly (available at home depot for a few bucks). It might stain the blade, but a few that I've done...I followed with Flitz type polish and the stain comes off...just have to repeat a few times. Before sandpaper, go with brass brush....brass is softer than steel...it won't scratch the blade up.
Last edited by toovira; 03-02-2012 at 04:24 AM.
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03-02-2012, 04:32 AM #7
I have seen a thread about a quick swipe of Birchwood Casey Rust and Blue remover (for guns). Have not had the guts to try it! It is pretty much acid.
"Don't be stubborn. You are missing out."
I rest my case.
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03-02-2012, 04:36 AM #8
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- Feb 2012
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Thanked: 2According to MSDS, they are similar compound to Naval Jelly, but Naval Jelly is readily available at half the cost. I prefer Kroil as it is oil, especially if it's newly formed rust, but they are hard to find...only on internet or directly from Kano Labs. NAPA sells then, but it's $18 per 10 oz Aerosol.
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03-02-2012, 04:44 AM #9
Maybe it's just me but I don't like getting my blades wet let alone putting serious rust removing chemicals on them. Honestly the most I usually do to a blade with rust on it is to use some Turtle Wax polishing compound and #0000 steel wool.
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03-03-2012, 12:25 PM #10
When sanding the mirror finish gos how do I bring it back