How do not make it worst?

**proximus26** · 11-12-2012, 03:53 AM

Hello all good people,

I got this razor recently with idea to fix it as I did it with many other. Problem is it is my first razor, that big razor I will be wotking on. Also it is wedge and I would like to avoid to damage geometry of the blade. How to start repair of this edge? It is bad but I think it can be fix.
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**Cangooner** · 11-12-2012, 04:04 AM

Those are big chips. Getting rid of those will necessarily entail the removal of a *significant* amount of steel. That in turn will necessarily entail changing the blade's geometry.

Personally, I would not have bought this one as a fixer-upper. It's a shame as Elliots are nice blades.

**HNSB** · 11-12-2012, 04:30 AM

Can you take a pic of the end of the blade to show the grind?

**proximus26** · 11-12-2012, 04:47 AM

Here is grind side.

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**Wullie** · 11-12-2012, 04:51 AM

Looks pretty "wedgy", maybe around a quarter hollow, from what I can see of the thickness of the steel in those gaps. It's fixable but as has been stated, it will require at least an eighth of inch off the blade width and maybe a bit more.

It'll be a bit lighter though.

Might look something like this.

**HNSB** · 11-12-2012, 05:03 AM

As heavy as the grind is, to remove the chips it should be reground.
If it were hollower you could get away with honing them out on a low grit stone.

**proximus26** · 11-12-2012, 05:56 AM

Reground,

well this might be impossible to me because I don`t know how to do it. I guess I don`t have even tools to do it:-)

I will do my best with my DMT :-). Later I will post result of my work. If not these big chips I could say this was NOS razor. I took microscope and check razor and I noticed that spine is untouched. I guess was never honed, just destroyed.

Thank you for your help.

**Mauri** · 11-12-2012, 07:23 AM

If you simply hone it, and use it like that (with some special attention not to use the chipped parts of the blade on delicate parts of your face) the chips will disappear over time, with the natural consumption of the blade due to repeated honing. They are large, and it will take some years, but I know it works because I did it myself with some very old blades I own. Small chips disappeared in a year (say 5 to 10 shavings due to my large rotation), and it is quite safe unless the blade is distorted at the chips. Stropping with abrasive pastes also helps to preserve the shape of the blade.
Another way is using sandpaper: Removing a chip from a straight razor, Part 1 - YouTube

**Cangooner** · 11-12-2012, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by Mauri

If you simply hone it, and use it like that (with some special attention not to use the chipped parts of the blade on delicate parts of your face) the chips will disappear over time, with the natural consumption of the blade due to repeated honing.

Seriously? I'm very curious as to how one would use a razor that is badly chipped in two spots right near the middle of the blade without excessive bloodshed. And which parts of one's face are not delicate? Personally I would never advocate letting a blade with chips like that anywhere near one's face.

As for removing a chip that size through 'natural consumption of the blade due to repeated honing', how long would it take for a 1/4 ground or near-wedge blade to lose 1/8" of blade width through normal use and normal honing? I can't imagine it would be within any of our lifetimes.

Brad's method will work, as will breadknifing on a hone (gssixgun has an excellent vid that explains this and shows a more subtle approach than has been used by some. It's well worth searching for). But the original question was about doing this without damaging the geometry of the blade. I agree with Wullie that it looks like you'll have to remove upwards of 1/8" to remove the chips. If you think of the geometry of a blade as a triangle extending from the sides of the spine to the edge, shortening the distance from spine to edge will certainly alter the geometry. Whether or not it will 'damage' it is a question I'll leave to those with more expertise than I.

**gssixgun** · 11-12-2012, 09:58 AM

Here is the math

(2 * asin(w / (2 * h)) * 180) / pi = a

w = Width of the spine
h = Height of the blade
a= Bevel angle

Plug in the original then subtract the depth of the largest chip and figure for after grinding

We know that razors are shaving from 12° - 23° from when we did the measurements on our razors, so if it falls inside there, life should be sweet, if not then you need to wear down the spine some too...

ps: I have never linked that vid to this forum in the past because of the negative connotation to breadknifing, so as the warning on the vid states "Use at your own risk" it is not the technique that is lacking if you can't get your razor sharp again it is your skillset....

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