Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
Like Tree7Likes

Thread: Very thin E.A. Berg

  1. #11
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sweden, Gotland, Visby
    Posts
    1,888
    Thanked: 222

    Default

    I've seen one with a lead back, almost sorry I didn't buy that one... but I wouldn't want lead on my hones.
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Essex, UK
    Posts
    3,816
    Thanked: 3164

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lemur View Post
    I've seen one with a lead back, almost sorry I didn't buy that one... but I wouldn't want lead on my hones.
    Was that someone's attempt to fix it, do you think Lemur? Lead would wear even faster than tape on rough hones - before entirely sealing the surface of the hone and being a swine to remove without lapping!

    Regards,
    Neil

  3. #13
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sweden, Gotland, Visby
    Posts
    1,888
    Thanked: 222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    Was that someone's attempt to fix it, do you think Lemur? Lead would wear even faster than tape on rough hones - before entirely sealing the surface of the hone and being a swine to remove without lapping!

    Regards,
    Neil
    My thought to, it looked kind of funny!
    As goldsmith I'm scared of anything lead, it you get it on your tools, you will get it on the jewellery and then there will be trouble!
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    If I was going to do it I would get some solid round stock and have a machinist mill a slot for the blade. Give enough clearance to epoxy the spine into the milled slot. Make sure the OD of the stock was going to give the proper geometry for the blade width when honing. Might be too pricey for what the project would be worth once completed, unless you know someone, or have the wherewithal to do it yourself.

  5. #15
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    7
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    I don' t have a lot of power tools, but I do own a dremel. I think it shouldn't be that hard to clamp it, build a guide and 'rout' the groove myself, like the other poster suggested. I'll give a shot, if it doesn't work out, I can always try something else. The money by itself isn't a deal-breaker, I'm not looking to make a profit, but I'm in for the fun of restoring.

    Why would you take solid stock exactly, for the water that could get trapped otherwise?

    It'll be interesting to see if the demel can actually help restoring a blade. So far, it's has done more bad than good.

  6. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11042

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by raven65536 View Post
    Why would you take solid stock exactly, for the water that could get trapped otherwise?
    Not because I "know" what I'm doing ..... I just like the idea of solid, as opposed to tube. OTOH, the important thing is that the geometry is correct and the gizmo is secure.
    dudness likes this.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Lemur's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sweden, Gotland, Visby
    Posts
    1,888
    Thanked: 222

    Default

    + 1 on the above.
    I cant explain how frustrating it is to sharpen a razor that just wont get there and then you find the back or blade sometimes shift!
    Hur Svenska stålet biter kom låt oss pröfva på.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •