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05-07-2013, 07:23 AM #1
My biggest recommendation is to start with a round point. I have been straight shaving since January and can finally get good and consistent results. I picked up a square point a couple weeks ago and I will say, had I originally gotten a square point as my first razor I probably would have quit after a week or two. Those square points can be very unforgiving if you aren't careful. I forget exactly how it was quoted in the wiki, but someone said that "square points are great at silently fileting the skin" or something along those lines.
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05-07-2013, 08:02 AM #2
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- Oct 2011
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- Moses Lake Wa.
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- 162
Thanked: 20I agree with the round point recommendation and with the personal preference advice. Personally, I own about 20 razors. top of my list for me is a cheep gold dollar 209. In the two years I have owned it I have sharpened it once, and shave with it often. second is an old Keen Kutter off of the bay and it was a nine dollar razor. to tell the truth my Dovo "Best Quality" is about fifth on my list. That is just my own two cents. I would think that most members here have an inexpensive razor that they just love or that loves them so I do not believe that price necessarily means a great shave, I do think however, that it mean that there is a quality that the company has to live up to.
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05-07-2013, 08:12 AM #3
Read as much as you can stand, then read some more. Look at months of The Shave of the Day, look at the forge and read about the history of straight razor manufacture. The less you know about something the more everything looks the same. A lot of people have shared a lot of knowledge in this forum, honor them by doing some of the work of research. The answers to the questions you are asking are already here. You take the blue pill, the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You take the red pill, you stay in Wonderland, and SRP will show you how deep the rabbit hole goes.
"Call me Ishmael"
CUTS LANE WOOL HAIR LIKE A Saus-AGE!
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Hirlau (05-07-2013)
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05-07-2013, 10:13 AM #4
One place to find quality steel at good prices is the classified section above this forum.
Once in a while you will find excellent steel with serviceable scales.
Often offered by some of the guys here... are rescued no name razors
from the turn of the century ... great steel, not famous, dull, cracked scales
but fine shavers.
There are differences but the modern razors all have good steel. The very best have
better steel but that is subjective. The big $$ are spent on grind, finish, scales, art....
Any Dovo made today is a darn fine razor. The lower priced ones
have a simple grind and almost no polish. The low priced scales are mass
mfg. plastic. Good but not fancy.
The Thiers Issard razors seem to be tempered a bit harder than Dovo
which I like but at the low end have worse scales. Harder steel takes
a light practiced hand... to hone well. Modern hones have no difficulty
with hard steel.
Of all my Dovos one of my favorites is a DOVO ASTRALE EBONY 5/8"
The scales are light but well balanced. The blade takes a fine edge...
The steel is not clearly better than another dovo $40 less.
All give a fine shave when honed and stropped correctly.
Since a razor needs to be stropped each shave I would point a beginner to a razor + strop combo at SRD.
A second rate strop is more common than a second rate razor.
Do not ignore the old steel.... but watch out for the eBay junk. You get what you
pay for....
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05-07-2013, 10:54 AM #5
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Thanked: 2591New production razors are priced based on detail used for the particular mode, plain plade with simple etch and no spine work with plastic scales will be cheaper than a gold wash blade with worked spine with horn scales. So price is based on paterials used and extra visual features. The steel does not vary in quality for each maker.
For vintage razors there is no rule of thumb about prices. Some brands are much more popular, and sell for a lot of money. Price can go up because of fancy scales with engravings. Price can be high because of the blade size, in general larger blades are more expansive. Finally rarity of the razor also plays somewhat into the price.
Start with a simple razor(Dovo Best Quality for example, or a good condition vintage) and strop to learn the ropes, then the possibilities are endless, I mean literally some people have hundreds of razors in their collections.Stefan
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Hirlau (05-07-2013)
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05-07-2013, 11:40 AM #6
There are some brands that are popular and therefore, tend to attract premium prices - I'm thinking Duble Duck and Filarmonica - neither are what you would call scarce so there is a big element of demand driving prices up. Having said that, they do not get their reputation for nothing and both are fine makes - my limited experience of both is that the Filarmonica takes some beating whereas the DD is similar to Henckels Friodur and the Swedish razors, but definitely cost more.
As the market for the big, old near wedges shows, Wade & Burtcher is still the brand in demand - again jistifiably so as they are very fine shavers. Whether they are any better than a whole host of similar age Sheffields is a moot point.
As a beginner you could probably take 200 different razors of all prices and, provided they were shave ready - you would probably not be able to 'feel' a difference in quality. You may well find a preference for size, shape, weight, grind or looks, but that's a different matter.
I'm going to make a prediction now - my prediction is that once you have your first razor and find that straight shaving is for you, then you'll start looking at these premium priced razors, ignore all the advice you have been given so far, and start justifying to yourself why you should have one.
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05-07-2013, 01:57 PM #7
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Thanked: 13249There are actually differences in the Vintage and the New Production razors besides just looks..
The are differences in the steels used, the process of hardening and tempering, and obvious differences in the grinds...
You simply have to search for the info for the New production stuff.
On Vintage razors it is a little harder to figure it all out, as much of the info was either hidden or greatly exaggerated so discerning the truth isn't so easy
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05-07-2013, 02:51 PM #8
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- Feb 2008
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- Taiwan
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Thanked: 44I've always had trouble with discerning what would separate an average shaver with a good hone job from a great shaver with a good hone job. There are a LOT of brands that get touted as "excellent" or "some of my best shavers", but I rarely hear what they are better than.
In putting razor to face, I won't much notice the edge hardness unless it is extremely low. I'm much more likely to prefer based on tang shape and length, blade profile, degree of hollow to the grind, blade weight and width, and honing quality. A part of me still wants to focus on the steel and heat treat, but I cannot from my shaves tell you if my Cattaraugus, Tosuke, Iwasaki, or anything else, has a superior steel or heat treat. Perhaps from honing wear I can pick things apart, but if someone told me my Tosuke was harder than my Iwasaki (which is probably not true), I couldn't from shaving experience confirm or deny the claim.
Good luck trying to get more info.Last edited by Tierdaen; 05-07-2013 at 03:57 PM.
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05-07-2013, 02:45 PM #9
Damascus is actually a generic moniker for 'pattern welded steel.' There are differences in formulas used in making up the final product, and the resulting alloy may make a difference in feel, how difficult it is to hone, and shave quality. IME a 'damascus' razor, and I've tried quite a few, is not necessarily better than a regular blade, but not worse. So aesthetics is the driver behind those. You have your stainless blades, high carbon, and some that have gimmicks such as lead hardening, that give the steels different qualities in honing if not in actual shaving. So there are subtle differences. Dovo, Ralf Aust and Theirs-Issard are some of the razors that I've personally taken a liking to.
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05-07-2013, 02:54 PM #10
"understanding how price vs. quality of a razor"
Before I donate my 2 cents;
WW243 gave you a path to follow, to start you in this journey. The SRP forum is so deep in information with regard to a razor's price vs quality, it's like stepping off your 21' open fisherman into the Marianas Trench. Look a little closer by using the "Advanced Search" button, top right & putting in keywords that interest you. This returns the threads related to your interests. Members, including myself, love to answer your posts, but why limit yourself with only the replies in this thread.
First, in giving advice to a new person such as yourself, with regard to wet shaving, I would focus on the quality of the shave & don't tunnel vision on the "quality" of the razor. The end result of the shave is what I seek. I have gotten great shaves from $40.00 vintage blades from the classified section, a $7.00 antique store rescue & $250.00 Dovo's. To use your own analogy of cameras; as a young man I got into photography via a friend. He carried a simple Pentax SLR camera; I went out & bought an Olympus SLR with all the toys that fit it, 3X's the investment I made. His photos were always better than mine; because he was a better photographer. Three years later, I also bought a Pentax, still had crappy photos.
The razor that gives you a good comfortable shave at the beginning of your day, is a quality razor.
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cudarunner (05-09-2013)