Thread: Told to 'not even bother' with my Zwilling Friodur?

Ah, close to me then ! There's another member, Geut/Dieter who lives in Retie. You may want to check with him if you want to visit 1Barber.

Actually, I was talking about vintage Friodurs. They are better qualitatively and can be bought in Germany at really good prices if you're patient and keep on the look-out, meaning less than 50 EUR for a 5/8". I've seen the prices for new Zwillings and imho, they're not worth it. I paid less than 160 EUR for this one here, which is a blade of top quality:



See you around, neighbour !
Wim

I too believe the honer did not have much experience in honing a stainless steel razor. It is not like honing a carbon steel razor.
I have some Henckels Friodur and, like the other gentlemen said, they absolutely are top notch razors. Very durable edge and excellent shavers.

Decraew: No, Duffel and Retie aren't far away at all! It's a small world after all, eh?

I think I'll keep on the look-out then. Seeing how honing and stropping the blade is €25, maybe some shipping costs as well.. just waiting it out until I have saved up some cash and find a neat deal seems like a better idea. In the mean time, I'm very much enjoying the Merkur DE razor as well, so there isn't really any hurry.

Razorguy: so honing the blade on a relatively coarse stone for about an hour, doing about 20 passes at a time isnt't that uncommon? He gave because he thought it was taking way, way too long.

Hi Satyr,

you got pm.

Greetings
Dimitry

The time it takes depends on many things - for example how coarse the coarse stone is. You could conceivably spend several hours on some razors if your coarse stone is only 4K, for example. And of course it depends on where the edge is as well.

Sometimes, on difficult razors, it's worth coming back to it and redoing some of the honing as well. I've done that on a few - did an initial honing, test shaved the edge, and then went back to the stones to try again. Often that little break in proceedings, coupled with the information you get from testing it, is enough to tip the scales in your favour. Sometimes honing can be "trial and error".

But in any event, it sounds as though you've got a plan so good luck to you!

James.

Can somebody please send me one of these "Difficult, Different, Hard to Hone" Stainless Steel razors so I too can experience what all the hubbub is about with SS..
I have yet to experience this tremendous difference between Carbon and Stainless, I have read about it but haven't seen it

I honestly haven't honed enough of the New Friodurs to form an opinion really, maybe 3-4 since they came out.. Don't remember anything especially good or bad during honing them...

Originally Posted by Satyr

Razorguy: so honing the blade on a relatively coarse stone for about an hour, doing about 20 passes at a time isnt't that uncommon? He gave because he thought it was taking way, way too long.

According to my experience, one hour honing in a relatively coarse stone means excessively flattening both the spine and the edge.
I personally honed my Friodurs and in two of them I also had to reset the bevel. I guess it took me about one hour to get the job done. Of course, it depends on the condition of the blade and of the bevel. And by looking at the pictures you posted, your Friodur does not seem to be in bad conditions.
I however started with a 3k stone and after that used a 8k. Finish was done with chromium oxide. In case the bevel is in a truly bad condition, I guess you could use a 1k stone and however not for an hour!
In my experience, carbon steel is easier to hone than stainless steel, the latter taking longer, but however not more difficult than carbon steel. I use the very same technique.
As for keeping the edge, I find very useful for stainless steel blades to use a Chinese stone from time to time when it starts to pull.
Mastro Livi recently told me the best way to keep the edge of a stainless steel blade is to strop it with chromium oxide as soon as it starts to pull.

Satyr,

Take a look at the second to last picture - there is pitting on the edge, so we're talking restoration, not just honing. Then the honewear on the spine is quite bad - on one side it's heavy at the front and the bevel there is very narrow, on the other side it's heavy at the back and the bevel there is narrow.

Regardless of how this state happened - warped razor or uneven honing (less likely) it will be challenging to get the razor properly honed. It's doesn't seem impossible but it needs a person with experience (see my previous post - now that we have the pictures that's spot on).

I bet the issues with the razor are not in the steel, but in that terrible geometry.

The blade looks similar to one I have. Mine came with black plastic scales but overall same razor.

I've tried sharpening this razor and it was average at best. I've had a few other people try to sharpen it also but no real luck.

I've tried to figure out what the problem was but all I can really come up with is bad steel quality.

Originally Posted by basil

The blade looks similar to one I have. Mine came with black plastic scales but overall same razor.

I've tried sharpening this razor and it was average at best. I've had a few other people try to sharpen it also but no real luck.

I've tried to figure out what the problem was but all I can really come up with is bad steel quality.

I found 20 rather than 5-10 stokes on .5 diamond spray/felt turned the tide for me on the one I did the other day. I would normally not do that much but you have to think outside the box at times.