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  1. Replies
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    Many thanks! I am aware that heel work is an...

    Many thanks!

    I am aware that heel work is an area where I need to refine my skills. As a general principle, would you say that the heel profile should be settled first, before re-profiling the...
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    @Euclid440, many thanks for the feedback! ...

    @Euclid440, many thanks for the feedback!



    Maybe I'm missing something here! Because of the amount removed to remove the chip, if you project the edge over the tang, there is about 2mm between...
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    With the advice in mind, I had a go on the...

    With the advice in mind, I had a go on the diamond plate. With the idea that less is more, and thinking I can always adjust again later, I stopped as soon as the damage seemed to have disappeared.
    ...
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    Yes, let's just go for it and see what happens!

    Yes, let's just go for it and see what happens!
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    The damage does indeed look deep. Many thanks for...

    The damage does indeed look deep. Many thanks for the advice and suggestions.

    My main area of uncertainty, both before asking the question and still now, is how to approach the issue of the final...
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    Many thanks for the advice. I appreciate that it...

    Many thanks for the advice. I appreciate that it will be a challenge due to the blade width, grind, and the relative width of the tang; my concern is precisely that the bevel will be very wide at the...
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    Chipped blade: re-profiling options

    I'm curious what the thread thinks of this, an otherwise nice (aren't they all...) Wostenholm Pipe with a chip:

    320910

    The damage is bigger than the chip itself:

    320911

    All in all at the...
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    A slight tangent, but going back to your earlier...

    A slight tangent, but going back to your earlier question, did you restore the break at the wedge pin? I'm sure glues or resins would do it, I think I might consider a repair in keeping with the age...
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    Dead right. I used 0.3mm brass sheet.

    Dead right. I used 0.3mm brass sheet.
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    I think one pour should be fine. I find if you...

    I think one pour should be fine. I find if you trim it roughly to size with a knife when it has just gone off, you save yourself a lot of work later. I think the key with your scales will be finding...
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    That is not a big deal. As you are planning to...

    That is not a big deal. As you are planning to dismantle them anyway, they should straighten out with a bit of heat and pressing. Lots of expert posts on here about how to do that. If it was my razor...
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    Yes. This razor was in a replacement set of...

    Yes. This razor was in a replacement set of scales for a year, and the old scales were in the parts box. It is not a special razor, a generic Solingen with no known maker, though a very sound razor...
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    Many thanks! I rebuilt the missing section in...

    Many thanks!

    I rebuilt the missing section in two stages, in the first stage the epoxy was filled with powdered charcoal, and the second stage, the part that was shaped to create what you see, the...
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    I believe these are brown bakelite. No burnt...

    I believe these are brown bakelite. No burnt rubber smell when I started cutting them, and brown as opposed to black, on the inside and outside.
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    Thanks for the comments chaps! But could this...

    Thanks for the comments chaps!

    But could this be done with celluloid?
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    I would have a go at repairing those Chabaz...

    I would have a go at repairing those Chabaz scales, especially as you seem to want to keep it as original as possible. I would guess they are celluloid, and the others will have to chip in on how...
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    Could you explain this? I usually work a strop...

    Could you explain this? I usually work a strop over a piece of stainless pipe.

    Many thanks!
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    I have been thinking about this, within the...

    I have been thinking about this, within the larger discussion on the conservation/restoration/repair/salvage continuum, and how to come up with a consistent methodology and whether it even matters. ...
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    Didn't we pass that point years ago?

    Didn't we pass that point years ago?
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    I believe turpentine is often used in leather...

    I believe turpentine is often used in leather products for that purpose, and also to keep waxes soft, especially in shoe polish. Smells nice too.

    One substance I don't remember anyone mentioning...
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    I used to buy mine from the black pudding stall...

    I used to buy mine from the black pudding stall on the market, they used to sell just black puddings, four kinds of tripe, cow heel, pigs feet, and neatsfoot oil which I suppose was a by-product of...
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    I did realise the problem with dubbin about two...

    I did realise the problem with dubbin about two months ago, and scraped the wax off and started applying neatsfoot then. The neatsfoot still absorbs quickly.

    Let's see how we go on, many thanks!
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    I will try more oil and scraping, many thanks....

    I will try more oil and scraping, many thanks. The strop is still drinking oil, and discounting cracks within 5mm of the edges, I would say that 80% of the surface is fine, meaning supple, smooth and...
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    I either over-stretched it, or the leather was...

    I either over-stretched it, or the leather was already shot. When I first got it, there was a thick layer of leather on the surface which had turned to powder. When I cleaned it with saddle soap (I...
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    Going back to this post... ... and this...

    Going back to this post...



    ... and this very useful 'Strop 101' from @Euclid440...



    ...here is where we are up to:
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