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    Same here, I've definitely learned to be lighter...

    Same here, I've definitely learned to be lighter with knives and razors. But there's still a switch in the back of my brain that says 'press harder!' when there's a chisel in my hand. So I just know...
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    Thoughts? It's an awful lot of money to throw...

    Thoughts? It's an awful lot of money to throw down on hones just because you don't like the tactile feed back of one. If you're already finishing on a Naniwa 12K nothing would really change as far as...
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    I'm of the same frame of mind with smooth stones....

    I'm of the same frame of mind with smooth stones. I think smoother is better, especially with high grit hones. All my naturals have had the stuffing polished out of them. Some of my barber hones too....
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    I use the Naniwa brown biscuit to clean up all my...

    I use the Naniwa brown biscuit to clean up all my synthetics as-needed. It does the job pretty good, and so far hasn't managed to contaminate anything.
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    I like to do a visual inspection, yes. Make sure...

    I like to do a visual inspection, yes. Make sure that the stria are uniform and there aren't any deep stragglers form the previous hone(s) still hanging around.

    Yes, synthetic hones can stop...
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    The beauty of the Norton 4K is that it was...

    The beauty of the Norton 4K is that it was designed to remove 1K scratches. I'd say it might be a touch more coarse than it's Shapton equivalent, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing considering...
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    Such is my understanding. At each stone you erase...

    Such is my understanding. At each stone you erase the stria left by the previous hone. This is done by removing enough metal to get below the scratches left by the last stone. When you leave the 2k,...
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    I've got a Norton set, 1/4/8K and Shapton...

    I've got a Norton set, 1/4/8K and Shapton Kuromaku (Japanese Pro) set 1/2/5/12K. I end up using the Norton stones more often because I typically finish on a natural stone. There's not much point in...
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