Thread: Experienced SR user adding a DE

I've been straight for about 4 years now. Getting shaves that I am very happy with.
I'm also a head shaver. While I can do this with a straight it takes me a long time as the best shaves have XTG and even ATG. I find this a bit awkward with a straight.

I picked up an old Gillette 3-piece for $5 and started my DE journey.
Brought a couple of sampler packs and found the spectrum from average shave, through great shave and on to lots of nicks & cuts.
I kept reading about adjustables and the concept seemed to make sense.

Have finally managed to pick up a cheap Gillette Slim (G3 - the first run of these from 1961)
The whole adjustable idea seemed interesting so I thought I'd have a look at what it did.
Using the "Mk I eye-ball" measuring device I found that my old 3-piece must be classed as an aggressive razor as it looks about as wide as the 8 or 9 setting on the slim.
Blades that had previously given a smooth, but nick-filled shave - now just give a great shave as I can dial down the gap and avoid the agressive edge. I'm sure better attention to angles may help here, but I find that a bit tricky round the back of my head Much like the straights.

Am away on holiday for 10 days and bringing the straight was a trickier option. Am enjoying going back through the blades I had previously rejected and trying them out at different settings.

Like straights you'll just need to choose a starting point for DE and exeriment from there.
Enjoy the next step on your journey

I've just gotten a Gillette Rocket Flair Tip II. Shaving with it exclusively ATM to get used to it. It's not aggressive and I find it give me a decent shave if I'm in a hurry or not (it was bought for when I had unscheduled lie ins).

I'd say give it a spin and see what you think. Personally I prefer the Gillette to the Merkur Futur I had. Far more comfortable and easier to handle for me.

I have 2 Parkers that I use when I don't have time for an SR shave. I also use them to "test" my Sr shaves by listening to what they cut AFTER a SR shave. I've discovered 2 things: 1) I'm getting better at SR shaving because sometimes the only area I hear my DE is on my unperfected SR areas (chin & lower necks); 2) I wish I had saved my original DE Gillette adjustable, because it was much nicer than either of my Parkers (no offense intended to them).

I want a "butterfly" DE because I do, no rational reason except that's all I ever knew 50 years ago. The Parkers sometimes have an issue closing evenly.

On Blades, I've tried 3 or 4 brands and so far my favorite are the German made Wilkinson Swords. However, I'm now doing an experiment in which I keep a new Wilkinson in one razor and a new Feather in the other to see how they compare and how long they last. I really dislike the Merkur blades (harsh and dullish), and have Sharks and Lords yet to try.

I'll report back.

PS, I can't afford to "re-buy" my old DE Gillette adjustable anywhere I've seen it yet. Sad but true.

I often go back and forth between straights and DEs.

My method is usually to put a much sharper type blade in my mild safety razors (aristocrat/diplomat get a feather or Gillette 7 O'Clock Black) while the more aggressive razors (New Standard/Bostonian get a Lab prep, Astra SP, or SuperMax Platinums).

For your situation, I would shop for an adjustable gillette, a Slim or Fat Boy. That way you can dial up the aggressiveness to see which suits you with blades you find you prefer.

While the older Gillettes are fine razors - I have an Aristocrat and a Tech - a very good place to start with a DE is the Merkur 1904 Classic (also called the type 42C). These little beauties are nickel plated brass and are very precisely made. They have a very good heft for a smallish razor and for my money (and face) the right compromise between mildness and aggression - with a lean more towards the milder end of the scale. I have found the lager head of the Aristocrat and Fat Boy Gillettes more difficult to manoeuver under the nose. Also, the adjustability feature is not all that useful for a new user who is trying to master the technique rather than find the ultimate shave.

Another plus is that the 3 piece design goes together in a way that ensures perfect alignment - with twist to open (TTO) razors there's a possibility of misalignment giving a different blade exposure on each side. Older TTO razors, except for NOS examples, could have been dropped a few times, increasing this possibility.

On the subject of blades, everyone has their own opinions but the Astra blades are my favourites - Feathers are very sharp and need a bit more care, they also don't seem to last quite as long.

Hope this helps

Originally Posted by lawman

I don't shave every day but, when I do, I demand a close, comfortable shave. I have a rotation of three SRs that do that for me very nicely but I'm interested in/curious about adding a DE to my rotation. I've read just enough to be thoroughly confused by all of the comments regarding open vs. closed comb DEs and DEs that are "agressive." The only thing that I'm certain of is that everyone who comments on the Merkur 34 seems to love it.

I would appreciate help on two issues. Knowing that these issues have probably already been addressed elsewhere in an earlier thread that I didn't see, feel free to point me to the thread(s) as opposed to reinventing the wheel.

1. Given my expectations of a razor as noted above and my experience with wet shaving, is the Merkur 34 a good place for me to start? If not, please comment accordingly.

2. Please point me in the right direction with regards to blades. From my reading of the forums, it appears that, even with a good DE, shaving results vary widely with the variety of blades available. Where should I start?


Thanks in advance.

The Merkur 34C is a fine razor. As to a blade you will just need to experiment to find what suits your skin and technique. A mixed starter pack is a great place to start. Again its a trial and error process.

I prefer a Merkur Progress as even the blade you previously disliked can be dialled in to give a good close shave. Personally I like 7 o' clocks and I would start on a higher setting for a wtg then drop the aggressiveness down on the further two xtg and atg passes. This gives a close but comfortable shave.

I think the only difference you will notice is that the DE will cut the top off and blemishes you have, where as the straight is kinder as its more flexible in this respect. it also doesn't really require any skill either, any one can use a DE.

Another issue is we think we can shave quicker with a DE but if you want a close, nick and irritation free shave It's just not true if your experienced at with a straight and a DE.

Happy hunting

Originally Posted by lawman

I don't shave every day but, when I do, I demand a close, comfortable shave. I have a rotation of three SRs that do that for me very nicely but I'm interested in/curious about adding a DE to my rotation. I've read just enough to be thoroughly confused by all of the comments regarding open vs. closed comb DEs and DEs that are "agressive." The only thing that I'm certain of is that everyone who comments on the Merkur 34 seems to love it.

I would appreciate help on two issues. Knowing that these issues have probably already been addressed elsewhere in an earlier thread that I didn't see, feel free to point me to the thread(s) as opposed to reinventing the wheel.

1. Given my expectations of a razor as noted above and my experience with wet shaving, is the Merkur 34 a good place for me to start? If not, please comment accordingly.

2. Please point me in the right direction with regards to blades. From my reading of the forums, it appears that, even with a good DE, shaving results vary widely with the variety of blades available. Where should I start?


Thanks in advance.

I'd highly recommend the Edwin Jagger DE 89 mine is the 89L. Just a great razor. Due to work travel and my reluctance to check a bag on airlines I travel with my DE. So far TSA isn't concerned with my DE blade.

My expierence with a DE is different. I get a BSS very easily and quicker than a SR. I'll admitt I have more expierence with DEs than SRs. I still feel my DE shaves stay smoother longer than my SR shaves. I just enjoy the SR shave so much more.

Get a variety pack of blades and try them out. I like the Derby Extra blades. Yes the Merkur 34 is a nice razor as well.

One can never have enough weapon systems!

I have to agree with the variety pack approach to blade testing and recommend you get one that has Wilkinson and Feather blades included. Before I started with a SR (just recently) I had used a TTO with a normal safety bar for decades and only switched to and open comb Merkur 15c a few months ago but wish now that I had got the longer handle 25c. The open comb seemed an improvement and I think that going from SR to DE an open comb might be the way to go.

+1 on the Edwin Jagger 89. I got an LBL model off Amazon for like $35 and a 100 pack of Astra blades. I have a very tough beard and that combination of razor and blade slice through my whiskers like nothing else.

I shave with my straight razors 98% of the time. I use a DE in two situations, if I can't carry a straight razor because I'm traveling on short notice or if I have a sunburn.

DE for close shave when there is no straight razor available: Merkur 38C barber pole with a Perma Sharp Super blade

DE for sunburned skin: a Goodfella razor with a Perma Sharp Super blade, very gentle shave which spares the skin, not quite as close, of course. Extremely light for travel.

I think the great DE shave combinations actually shave microscopically closer than a well honed straight, but the straight razor shave leaves the whiskers just a touch longer and softer (pure speculation, no supporting facts). I compare it to the difference between the feel of closely cropped grass to that of a lawn which is a tiny bit taller. I think the "softer" feel of the straight razor shave mirrors the slightly longer grass cut in that comparison. There is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the "shaved skin feel" lasts longer with a straight razor shave. I can straight razor shave the night before and still be "shaved" for a workday. I can't do that with a DE shave. I need to DE shave again that day if I want to go out after work looking clean shaven. The stubble feeling returns sooner with the DE shave.

As for DE vs straights, it doesn't matter. What matters is expertise. I wouldn't bet against expertise. Ever. What a human being can accomplish with practice and attention is truly amazing. That's why I think the quality of the shave is the result of the accumulated skill, preparation and judgement of the shaver. Comparing methods DE vs. straight vs. whatever is not productive, since it all depends on the skill of the shaver and his(her) experience with the chosen method.