I've been reading these forums for quite some time, first on a single edge razor and then onto double edges. I have never tried single edges but I have recently started diving into the double edge world and it's fairly different from a Schick.

I bought a Merkur 23C recently and one of my friends swore by Derby razors since they supposedly yield a great shave. Needless to say I have enjoyed the shaving experience since not only have I bought the blades as well as the razor, I have also invested in some Col Conk soap, a Badger brush, as well as some C.O. Bigelow Proraso shaving cream.

Now here's my dilemma:
After shaving and doing a few passes, normally one across the grain (towards the middle of the face), another across the grain (towards the ears) and then one more with the grain and slightly across it , I still can see the contrast where the hair was, almost 5 o'clock shadow!!

I don't let my facial hair grow for more than a day or two and sometimes I get the baby butt skin (should I feel this against the grain too?) in random patches on my face however when I take the effort to clean up areas that I missed I have some razor burn from this. This irritation sometimes happens on the first pass. I've even applied close to no pressure with the razor as well as holding it from the bottom of it.

I've seen Mantic's videos on youtube where his face is immaculate but I'm wondering what I can do to avoid these irritations as well as raise the lightness in color where the hair grows.


Thanks to those pros that answer