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  1. #1
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    Question Five O'clock shadow after shaving?

    I've been reading these forums for quite some time, first on a single edge razor and then onto double edges. I have never tried single edges but I have recently started diving into the double edge world and it's fairly different from a Schick.

    I bought a Merkur 23C recently and one of my friends swore by Derby razors since they supposedly yield a great shave. Needless to say I have enjoyed the shaving experience since not only have I bought the blades as well as the razor, I have also invested in some Col Conk soap, a Badger brush, as well as some C.O. Bigelow Proraso shaving cream.

    Now here's my dilemma:
    After shaving and doing a few passes, normally one across the grain (towards the middle of the face), another across the grain (towards the ears) and then one more with the grain and slightly across it , I still can see the contrast where the hair was, almost 5 o'clock shadow!!

    I don't let my facial hair grow for more than a day or two and sometimes I get the baby butt skin (should I feel this against the grain too?) in random patches on my face however when I take the effort to clean up areas that I missed I have some razor burn from this. This irritation sometimes happens on the first pass. I've even applied close to no pressure with the razor as well as holding it from the bottom of it.

    I've seen Mantic's videos on youtube where his face is immaculate but I'm wondering what I can do to avoid these irritations as well as raise the lightness in color where the hair grows.


    Thanks to those pros that answer

  2. #2
    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    Hi,

    I would check that your angles are OK; sometimes there is not a lot of difference in apparent angle of the razor between cutting smoothly and the blade dragging across your face causing razor burn.

    It is also sometimes difficult to maintain these angles on the curved surface of your face. So the jaw gets a bit scuffed !

    I would start with a WTG pass - this is generally downwards for most peolple. Then an XTG pass ear to nose, and see what your stubble is like after that. If needed add an XTG nose to ear pass, and the stubble should then be suitably reduced for a comfortable ATG pass.

    Best of luck

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ

  3. #3
    The Assyrian Obie's Avatar
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    Default Five O'Clock . . .

    Hello, DoubleEdge23C:

    Razor angle is important, as well as light pressure. Also, to avoid skin irritation, try not to shave over the same spot excessive number of times.

    Make sure your preparation is excellent, because that is of the utmost importance. Also, perhaps you should change razor blades. Two blades I always recommend are both sharp and smooth: Feather and Gillette 7 O'Clock Sharp Edge (yellow packs).

    Please continue to keep us apprised of your progress.

    Regards,
    Obie

  4. #4
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Do you feel stubble after shaving or just see the dark areas? If your skin is smooth there isn't much more you can do. There are some people with very light skin and very dark beards.

    You can experiment with other blades and additional pre shave prep.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  5. #5
    Senior Member Arrowhead's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I do get a pretty smooth result from a DE, but I always call it a draw after two passes no matter what (that goes for a straight too). I'm too susceptible to razor burn to risk overshaving, and frankly this business of the perfect BBS shave doesn't interest me much, after all, you have to do it all again tomorrow anyway. Quite often the result is a very close shave, but the satisfaction is more in the process than the result if you see what I mean.

    I do have a problem with Derby blades, though - I'll never bother to try one again. This isn't an attempt to be controversial, and mileages vary wildly with this product in particular, but there does seem to be a consensus that you can get rogue blades, which is unacceptable to my mind. The 7 o'clock yellows and Feathers are certainly better in that respect (I maintain stocks of both) but for a reliably non irritating blade the best current product for me is the Super Iridium. Also, if you get a chance to try the now discontinued "Swedes" (Gillette Platinum, made in Sweden), do so, as they are definitely a benchmark.

  6. #6
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    Default What to make of all this:

    Hey, thanks for all the responses.

    I have not had too much of a problem with the angles, as long as I can hear it cutting or feel it I think that I'm on the right track. I followed Russ's advice of the certain order of passes after a hot shower and leaving my brush in hot water until I was out but upon really close review it looks almost like I didn't shave!!

    I might try the Gilettes, I'm not too sure which supplier to order them from, if anyone knows of a decent place to buy from online that would be pretty awesome. My normal stock is "Best Grooming Tools" and they have decent rates as well as fast shipping. Are these the Gilettes that Obie was talking about? I have not found the yellow pack on their site:
    Gillette 7 O'Clock Double Edge

    I feel stubble and see the dark area, I only FEEL the stubble against the grain but not with it.
    Can TheBigSpendur give any pre shave prep tips besides hot water? Normally I stretch the skin while I'm shaving and this seems to let me get at the hair pretty close.

    Andy is right too, since I can't stand a beard I may as well enjoy the process of prepping and taking the 10 minutes to clean up; I just want to see some nice results from it. What he said about rogue blades has not surprised me but one of my friends suggested that Bluebird blades are pretty good.
    What Irridum blades are decent? Any ideas where I can try out some of those Swede blades?

    Bluebird Razors:
    Bluebird

    When I got my razor it came with 3 packs of free blades Racer, Silverstar and Rainbows, I have never heard about them so I'm guessing they're crappy blades - has anyone had any luck with them before?

    I'll just keep hopping from blades until I find anything decent

    Thanks guys
    DoubleEdge23c
    Last edited by DoubleEdge23c; 05-01-2010 at 07:36 AM. Reason: update

  7. #7
    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    DoubleEdge,

    You can find Iridium blades here.

    Razor Blades -BullGoose Shaving Supplies
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

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  9. #8
    Senior Member Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleEdge23c View Post
    Can TheBigSpendur give any pre shave prep tips besides hot water? Normally I stretch the skin while I'm shaving and this seems to let me get at the hair pretty close.

    Any ideas where I can try out some of those Swede blades?
    I expect TheBigSpendur can offer more help than me, but applying a coat of lather then doing something else for a couple of minutes is my preferred prep method, for DE shaving as well as straights. That's after the hot water of course, which is essential.

    The skin stretching might not be such a good idea, in fact I'd go easy on that. The safety bar stretches the skin slightly just ahead of the blade anyway. Excessive use of this straight razor technique promotes ingrowns in some people, especially if you make a habit of working against the grain.

    Swedes. If I knew that ... Sorry.

  10. #9
    The Assyrian Obie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleEdge23c View Post
    Are these the Gilettes that Obie was talking about? I have not found the yellow pack on their site:
    Gillette 7 O'Clock Double Edge

    Thanks guys
    DoubleEdge23c
    Hello, Double Edge23c:

    No, those are not the ones. The Gillettes I mention are the 7 O'Clock "Sharp Edge" that come in a yellow packet. They are made in Russia. Connaught.com in the UK has them, and I also have seen them at westcoastshaving.com in the U.S. These are great blades, I think; they and the Feathers being my regular blades.

    Regards,
    Obie

  11. #10
    Well Shaved Gentleman... jhenry's Avatar
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    Obie and DoubleEdge,

    You can also find the Gillette "7 O'Clock" DE razor blades here.

    Gillette 7 O'Clock Double Edge Safety Razor Blades | DERazorblades
    "Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don't mind, it doesn't matter." Mark Twain

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