Thread: D.E advice

I've been thinking about getting a double edge for those occasions when...Well, when I feel like slacking off from being so damn straight all the time. Can anyone tell me what the 'combed' variety is used for compared to the non-combed variety? I assume also, that a short handle is a wiser choice than a longer handle for better manuverability. Other (wiser) opinions thoughts on that? Thanks for your help.


Mick

I have a Gillette Super Slim adjustable, which I use with Super Iridium blades. I like it a lot and use it sometimes just because it's fun. I got it after reading the "first shave" wiki. It said to shave my cheek, then finish with my usual method of shaving. Well I didn't want to go back to disposables, so I though I'd get a DE since I used them for about 20 years.

It's like straights...next thing you know...you have a collection! So I have another adjustable, then a flare handle super-speed, then a Merkur Progress…I've tried various blades...

Is there any relief from SGAD (Shave Gear AD?)

Originally Posted by MickR

I've been thinking about getting a double edge for those occasions when...Well, when I feel like slacking off from being so damn straight all the time. Can anyone tell me what the 'combed' variety is used for compared to the non-combed variety? I assume also, that a short handle is a wiser choice than a longer handle for better manuverability. Other (wiser) opinions thoughts on that? Thanks for your help.


Mick

Hi Mick,

The open comb razors expose more of the blade, so hence they become more aggressive than the closed comb razors. Even further aggressive (IME) are slant razors. They are closed comb, but hold the DE blade such that it is slanted on each side. A little difficult to get used to, but I actually quite like them.

I actually prefer the shorter handled razors, but then again I grip the razor right below the head anyway so I don't need all that extra handle to get in the way.

What exactly are you looking for in a razor?
Modern Aggressive:
Merkur Slant
Muhle R41 open comb
Merkur Open comb
Merkur 34HD

Modern Mild:
EJ89 or Muhle 89 (same head, different handles). IME this is the best modern day DE.
Merkur classic, though not as mild as the EJ89

Vintage Aggressive:
Gillette NEW long tooth comb
Gillette Red Tip
Gillette Fat Boy/Slim (can be as aggressive or mild as you want)
Merkur/Hoffritz Slant

Vintage Mild:
Gillette 40s style superspeed
Gillette Blue Tip
Gillette Flair Tips
Gillette Techs

anyway, there are a ton a razors out there and if you are looking for just something to use every once in a while, I would go with modern: EJ89 or Merkur 34HD; Vintage: Gillette Slim, red-tip or 40s SS

Hope that helps!

Hello Mick,

If I understand you correctly, you're looking for a DE to use just occasionally for a change or when you don't feel like concentrating too hard. Presumably you'd also like a nice piece of kit.

Based on that, and restricted by my very narrow field of expertise, I'd say a 40's Superspeed would fit the bill admirably. They're easy to find, not especially collectable (thus affordable), excellent easy going shavers, and to my mind the best looking razor ever made in a no nonsense designed by an engineer sort of way. For a weightier option, try to find a Rocket, which is nearly identical to a SS, made in England, and ... heavier. Either would be an excellent starter razor.

Of the more sophisticated vintage models, my pick would be the Slim adjustable: again affordable and nicely engineered, and you get to play about with the adjustment mechanism to get the level of aggression you prefer. Mine is stuck on *very aggressive*, which will cause some shaking of heads, but it suits me and I've had a lot of practice. A sensible place to start is no higher than 3.

I'd leave an open comb for a second purchase: they are a little less forgiving apparently, but I've managed to avoid them so far.

As regards handle length, I'm in the short camp, resting the end of the handle on my little finger, but that's entirely a personal decision.

That's the view from the vintage Gillette corner: hope it might be of some help.

Originally Posted by Arrowhead

Hello Mick,

If I understand you correctly, you're looking for a DE to use just occasionally for a change or when you don't feel like concentrating too hard. Presumably you'd also like a nice piece of kit.

Based on that, and restricted by my very narrow field of expertise, I'd say a 40's Superspeed would fit the bill admirably. They're easy to find, not especially collectable (thus affordable), excellent easy going shavers, and to my mind the best looking razor ever made in a no nonsense designed by an engineer sort of way. For a weightier option, try to find a Rocket, which is nearly identical to a SS, made in England, and ... heavier. Either would be an excellent starter razor.

Of the more sophisticated vintage models, my pick would be the Slim adjustable: again affordable and nicely engineered, and you get to play about with the adjustment mechanism to get the level of aggression you prefer. Mine is stuck on *very aggressive*, which will cause some shaking of heads, but it suits me and I've had a lot of practice. A sensible place to start is no higher than 3.

I'd leave an open comb for a second purchase: they are a little less forgiving apparently, but I've managed to avoid them so far.

As regards handle length, I'm in the short camp, resting the end of the handle on my little finger, but that's entirely a personal decision.

That's the view from the vintage Gillette corner: hope it might be of some help.

The 40s SS is indeed one of my favorite DEs and a great shaver as well. Can usually be picked up in the $10-20 range depending on condition. Of the adjustables, I slightly prefer the Fat boy, but the Slim is a great shaver and can be had for about $20 cheaper than you will pay for a fat boy. I leave my adjustables on 7-9 setting as well as I like aggressive razors.

At this point in time with advancements I don't think the open comb type really gives any better shave. The new Muhle type heads also using the Ejs give great shaves. I have the EJ Chatsworth and it outshaves my fatboy and the mercur Future I used to have. I don't know about the new stainless feather or the pils.

I have pretty much stopped using and sold my vintage DEs. The only ones I'm looking at keeping for DEs are the EJ89L, vintage Hoffritz Slant (same design as new Merkur Slants), Cooncatbob's Bull Mastiff w/ Gillette New head, and lastly my best razor - a vintage Darwin DE from the 1920s. The darwins are very rare and can be quite pricey (I lucked out on mine), but IME it is the smoothest shaver of any I've tried. The first stainless steel razor ever made as well.

Bottom line, while collecting vintage Gillettes may be fun, the best razors IME are not them.

Originally Posted by Harvitz81

Modern Aggressive:
Merkur Slant
Muhle R41 open comb
Merkur Open comb
Merkur 34HD

I'm puzzled as to why some people feel the 34C/38C are considered aggressive. IME they are a nice, very forgiving DE that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend to a beginner.

Yes Mick, that was my endorsement for your first DE...

If I were in your shoes, I'd get a Merkur 34C either regular or Heavy Duty. They are reasonably priced and readily available for purchase.

I own both a Merkur HD and a Futur and prefer the former over the latter. In fact, I just used my Merkur HD today, as the attached SOTD photo attests, for the very same reason you offered; namely, that there are those times when you may not want to use your straight razor for a shave. Today was one of those days for me.