Thread: New to Safety Razor Shaving

Gentlemen,

I've been using a Merkur 34C for about 4 shaves now. I'm finding the experience intensely enjoyable, but obviously something like this requires a little finesse. I'd been using Mach 3 blades for the last 14 years, so this is quite a bit different. My skin can be rather tough I guess, and I'm blade conscious. I've used a Mach 3 with nothing but water and gotten a good shave countless times. However, I'm hitting a few bumps you might be able to help me with.


#1: Getting a good lather.

I'm using some Van Der Hagen Luxury puck soap for my lather. The first time I used way too much water, so the second time, I tried making it bone dry. There was some difference in the lather, but I didn't really feel like I was getting a thick lather still. Since then, I got a tip about face lathering working well with this soap, so I've been lathering on the face instead of in a bowl. That seems to be a little better, but it's still not very much/very thick lather. I am using a Van Der Hagen badger hair brush, if that helps (though the thing sheds like crazy. I plan on replacing it eventually).

Q: Is this typical of puck soaps? Or am I doing this wrong? Am I better off with a cream? (Taylor of Old Bond Street for example).


#2: Razor Burn.

Never in my life have I experienced razor burn. Not even once. However, I've noticed that with each shave, my face feels more and burned. I actually ran out to the store today to get an after shave balm to help calm the fire on my neck and jawline because it was pretty intense and getting visibly red. I know the angle of the shave is important, but it seems difficult for me to maintain on certain parts of the face/neck. I have a very sharp jawline, and a protruding adam's apple that are posing a few problems. After paying close attention to my growth pattern, I was able to make improvements on how clean a shave I was getting in these areas, but OH LORD THE BURNING.

Q: Am I using too much pressure while shaving? Is it incorrect angle? Too many passes? I'm being obsessive about these areas, so I think I go over each area 2-3 times on each pass. I make 3 passes. (With the Grain, Across the Grain, and Against the Grain), any tips on how to shave difficult areas that are not very flat? My cheeks/sideburns are just fine, and I don't have to worry about my chin due to a goatee/moustache, but the neck and underside of the jaw are the bane of my existence right now.

As far as lather, try a different soap or a cream perhaps. If you have a bath and body works near you, you can get the C. O. Bigelo cream for ten bucks a tube, and it's good. Also if you have a L'occitane near you. Their shave soap puck is really excellent, for ten bucks as well. Barring that, you'll likely have to order over the internet.

As far as number two. You're almost certainly using too much pressure. The cartridges pretty much train you over the years to press harder to get closer. You have to unlearn that. You'll have to make a more conscious effort to just let the razor do the work and not use any pressure.

I use the same setup as you and the lather I'm getting is fine but if you're used to something like Edge gel it may feel different. I get the best lather when I have neither too little or too much water and when I really use the brush to "fluff" it up.

You have to cover your face with soap first and then the second "coating" lathers up just fine for me when I'm a little more vigorous with the brush.

My razor burn (which I never had before either) went away when I reduced the pressure as was mentioned.

The bristles are a little "wild" on the outer edges of my brush but they aren't falling out and it's only noticeable (to me) when I use the brush around the nose area.

Also you don't want to go over each area 2-3 times on each pass. Go over it once and just do 2 or 3 passes and it should help. We all get used to doing that without a lot of lather with cartridges but it doesn't work so well with straight razors.

Originally Posted by Mirakk

#2: Razor Burn.

Never in my life have I experienced razor burn. Not even once. However, I've noticed that with each shave, my face feels more and burned. I actually ran out to the store today to get an after shave balm to help calm the fire on my neck and jawline because it was pretty intense and getting visibly red. I know the angle of the shave is important, but it seems difficult for me to maintain on certain parts of the face/neck. I have a very sharp jawline, and a protruding adam's apple that are posing a few problems. After paying close attention to my growth pattern, I was able to make improvements on how clean a shave I was getting in these areas, but OH LORD THE BURNING.

Q: Am I using too much pressure while shaving? Is it incorrect angle? Too many passes? I'm being obsessive about these areas, so I think I go over each area 2-3 times on each pass. I make 3 passes. (With the Grain, Across the Grain, and Against the Grain), any tips on how to shave difficult areas that are not very flat? My cheeks/sideburns are just fine, and I don't have to worry about my chin due to a goatee/moustache, but the neck and underside of the jaw are the bane of my existence right now.

Yes, too much pressure and too many passes. Use _very_ light pressure, and re-apply lather after each pass.

For jutting-out places, pull the skin sideways so it flattens out, and shave it while it's pulled. That's the only way I can do my Adam's apple without getting cut.

If you want evidence that you're not alone, a pointer to my own start with a DE razor:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/shavi...e-shaving.html

Quick update.

I skipped a day shaving and used that after shave balm to get my face to calm down a bit. Popped in a new blade and tried again with very little pressure. It seems to be doing the trick. I just have to keep working on my technique to get a good shave. There's a few places where going diagonally seems to work best.

As for the lathering, it's adequate for shaving. One neat trick I experimented with today was using the edge of my beard to help me work up a better lather, then move it onto my cheek for some extra fluff.

Anyway, much improved. Thanks guys.

The next step would be to improve the lather.

The cheap way to do that is to lather in a bowl, and add a bit of glycerin (or Astroglide) to the soap, during whipping. The glycerin smooths things out -- it seems to act as a lubricating layer on the skin.

The expensive way is to go to a "premium" soap. I started out using Proraso. For me, the step above that was Mitchell Wool Fat and Tabac. And then I tried Truefitt & Hill soap, which was better yet.

You can also try a pre-shave treatment. Olive oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil -- all work. Hair conditioner works -- apply to the skin during your shower, and don't wash it off.

You're doing fine. No rush.

. Charles