Thread: I think I have the worst beard/skin combo...

Howdy gang! So I have been a sponge, soaking up knowledge and patiently learning the ropes. I can get an ok shave but still not as smooth, consistent, or as comfortable as using a DE (as to be expected starting out). I cannot get a bbs with a DE without lots of irritation and ingrowns anyways (been shaving with a DE since 2009), but I can easily get a DFS with DE, and am making progress with the straight.

Here is my issue. I have a tough and coarse beard that lays flat on my skin. The hairs themselves are very thick and stiff. I am fairly fair (not pale) with light brown hair but my facial hair is almost black in the really bad areas (chin down to base of neck) and you can still see it even when shaved flush with the skin. My skin is kind of dry, oily, and sensitive. Doh!

When shaving, I have been practicing using as little of blade angle as possible with the spine against the skin. This is with a new and freshly honed Aust from SRD. With no angle a lot of the hair just laughs as the blade literally slides off WTG. I can increase angle until it cuts, but it almost starts pulling a little at that point, or i can feel the blade uncomfortably slide against the skin (like a scrape). I always do a N to S WTG pass first to reduce stubble as XTG or ATG is impossible with out reduction. Going XTG or ATG, the blade literally wont move agaisnt the hair except on the cheeks which are pretty easy to shave. On the chin it often sticks even WTG. This is using the spine on skin technique for blade angle XTG and ATG. Sometimes a little bit of blade bluffing works, but it is risky. I cant really go ATG when DE shaving either unless I use some Hydrolast products (very slick and fast but expensive and a PITA to lather). The same thing happens with the DE in terms of sticking ATG or XTG.

My prep involves a hot shower and face wash and conditioning with Mane and Tail. I think I can rule out the blade as well. I bought it new from SRD, shaved a bunch, chipped it and had it fixed by SRD. The first go around I stropped after receiving the blade. Second time it was honed due to the chip, I didn't hone it to see if my stropping was the issue. It felt the same and actually felt better after stropping. Post shave treatment includes a alum block, witch hazel and essential oil splash, and hydrolast conditioner (amazing stuff).

I have read endless guides, and tried different techniques I have seen in various posts, but the beard still triumphs. Am I missing something or are my attempts futile evidence by failed attempts at bbs DE shaves, especially on the chin and neck? I mean heck there is hair that basically doesn't cut! The razor slides off or gets stuck at no angle and pulls at higher ones! Anyone have any experience with this? I try to be slow and deliberate as well, and have tried everything from hydrolast to arko to cella and tabac... help!

Ryall

I think you need a tree surgeon, no really, what you need is to find a barber in your area that SR shaves. If a competent barber has trouble with your beard then you know it isn't just you. Short of that, see if you can find a mentor in your area. Having a more accurate location will give any mentor near your the ability to assist. Good luck.

Great ideas, thanks! I am in Wichita Falls, TX. Also, I should add that using a Parker shavette with a feather blade does cut a little more efficiently and closely WTG, but can be very unforgiving.

Put Wichita Falls in your profile so that others in your area can get together with you and help with your difficulties. We are here to serve.

Solutions you might not have thought of as yet. I don't have your problems exactly, I have sensitive skin, sparse stiff beard and Rosacea. I was into hot shower, hot lather , hot rinse. Nothing but trouble until I switch to cold water shaving. And it doesn't have to be totally cold. Works with lukewarm water also.
Last step in my shower is a cold water face rinse and an application of a little hair conditioner on my beard. I leave it on and after I make my cold water lather and strop my razor I re-wet my face with cold water, apply a little bit of Cremo or Kiss My Face with my finger tips as a pre-shave, lather over it and shave and finish off with an alum block rub and a cold water rinse and apply Nivea for Sensitive Skin or similar. Changed my life and my enjoyment of shaving.

My suggestion for what it's worth.

Originally Posted by Razorfeld

Solutions ...Nothing but trouble until I switch to cold water shaving. And it doesn't have to be totally cold. Works with lukewarm water also.

My suggestion for what it's worth.

+1

Cool water prep and lathering and a couple of cold water rinses instantly took my irritation-prone skin from scars to stars. Hot water in the shower doesn't hurt but a very keen edge, cold prep, cool lather and cold rinse also works for me.

Would you say after prep & lathering your beard has softened ?
The only time I have had a similar experience to you is when I first tried to shave my head without taking the time on prep & lather.

Hey ryall,
I am not sure if you do this, so fogive me if you do, you dont really mention skin stretching, if you pull your skin in the oposite direction to growth the hairs should stand up a bit more. i also think that maybe if you are trying to use the whole blade straight on you will have quite a bit of resistance to overcome, you say that a shavette with de blades and de's work for you, their blades are about half the size, you could try using less of the blade on your razor, and cutting with the blade at a bit of an angle (guilotine stroke) this means that the hair is sliced by the razor rather than chopped.
I notice the products that you mention are typically used by method shavers, and from the little i know about it, you dont beard map, you just use certain moves in a certain order, i may be wrong, and i dont want to sound critical if it works for you, but have you allowed your beard to grow a bit and worked out direction of growth for your facial hair, i can pretty much guarantee that it wont be consistent, the grain direction will change dependant on where on your face you check.

Hey yall thanks for the tips! Ill definitely try the cold water. I have been stretching the skin and trying different ways and directions. I don't use method shaving forms while using a straight, and have been using mostly non-hydrolast products as well. I jave instead been using motions appropriate to the direction of beard growth with the straight. I also have experimented witj using different sections of the razor, but those techniques are still formative. I'll be sure to look closer at that as well.

What type of shave soap are you using? A good lather goes a long way to getting a smooth shave.

Bob