Thread: I think I have the worst beard/skin combo...

Speaking of looking closer... I have a tough beard. Beard prep definitely helps. Extensive beard prep really helps (two or three hot towel and lather combinations will soften my wire hard beard). I don't always have time for extensive beard prep. A really sharp blade matters too. But looking closer was a huge step forward for me.

Amazon sells a 5x magnifying swivel mirror. I mounted it in the shave den. I also picked up a $38 USB microscope (originally for inspecting the blade) and inspected my beard with that too. I've mapped my beard a few times now and my understanding has changed a bit each time. But when I really started looking close with the scope and magnifying mirror, I realize I have more than one whisker pattern and type even in the same facial region.

My neck is the most challenging, but I'll stick to the center of my neck for an example (straight north south across the middle of the Adam's apple). My whiskers are both dark and grey. Among the grey whisker I have two types: very course thick grey whiskers essentially the same as the course dark whiskers, and a smaller diameter lay flat gray whisker. Careful mapping gives me 8 regions of whiskers on my neck and most contain the three types of whisker (course black, course grey, and lay flat thinner grey).

I've also figured out multiple passes WTG provides no irritation and some beard reduction. Same too with XTG passes, the real trouble begins with ATG passes. Troublesome if I haven't done all of these steps:

1- Good beard preparation and maintain a sharp blade
2- Good beard reduction WTG and XTG
3- Good skin traction
4- Good blade angle
5- Cold water rinse before minor touch up
6- Moisturizer and dry before considering any other product

Number three is most interesting. I say skin traction because when I look very closely sometimes the whiskers lift, when I do one of the following contradictory things:

1- Stretch from behind like you would expect.
2- Stretch in front of the razor's travel (risky but works in a few limited regions of my face).
3- This is odd, but relax my skin and let the razor gently push up against the bunched skin.

Number 3 is dangerous because it is all feel and easy to cut yourself, but to attain comfortable BBS with no burn, I have a strip of beard at the bottom where this is all that works. I've had to look closer, carefully map my beard, work the equipment, and work harder than I expected to get a really good shave. Now that I have something that works (and I have some sideways work that took a long time to figure out as well), it is slowly becoming habitual. And it is a habit of growing success, I'm enjoying this more everyday.

I am finally to the point where I know the region, beard direction, and what to do there from memory. In just over 50 shaves and a lot of study, my shave has finally become the best shave I've ever given myself (using any kind of shave gear). The straight razor has a steep learning curve! It also has the best results. This is why professional barbers use a straight blade. I've been searching for a barbershop shave experience at home and I am getting closer and closer. The mental part of this sport is important too. Once I started working full time on a comfortable shave? About shave 15 or 20 after scrapping up my face more than once with resulting razor burn, well closer shaves followed not far behind comfortable shaves. A really sharp blade helps too.

You will figure it out too! Good luck!

Ed

Awesome. Thanks a ton. The 5x mirror sounds like a great idea. I'll try your 3rd suggestion for stretching as well. To answer the previous question, I use Arko, Tabac, KMF, hydrolast, VDH, Cella, and Creamo. I know how to lather! I will add towels and lather to the prep in addition to the hot shower, conditioner, and Prorasso pre/post. The cold water sounds interesting. I wonder if that helps tighten the skin?

Originally Posted by WartHawg75

To answer the previous question, I use Arko, Tabac, KMF, hydrolast, VDH, Cella, and Creamo. I know how to lather!

Yea some good soaps there. I thought I knew how to create a good lather too till I started using straights after 40 odd years of wet shaving. Straights demand a better lather than what will generally work with a DE. At least I found straights to be more finicky.

So many things go into making up a good shave it is hard to figure which ones you are lacking in or haven't figured out yet. Good luck figuring it out. Remember that is no whisker that cannot be cut with a razor, any razor.

Bob

Just finished shaving. I did more hot water prep with towels and incorporated cold water into the lather and between pass rinses. I liked what those did for me for sure. The razor seemed to glide better, which could have been attributed to better prep and I think my stropping is improving as well. I did have a little more irritation during the alum block application, but my face normally gets more sensitive throughout the week and my shaves usually aren't as close either. It's almost as if the hair is thicker and coarser each day. Anyways, I think the biggest improvement came from really paying attention to what part of the blade I was using. I used the heel a lot more and that seemed to improve control and provide a little extra momentum to the blade.

I know you have a lot of experience, but I haven't heard mention of how you lather. I know a lot of African American gentlemen have issues with very stiff whiskers and many seem to get some relief by face lathering with a stiffer brush. This helps to lift the hair from the skin somewhat. Just my 2 cents as I think everyone else has given you some great advice!

I am a face lather, but maybe a stiffer brush is in order. I use a Edwin Jager best badger, and it is pretty soft. Any recommendations?

I have a Vi-Long boar brush I bought off of Amazon.com. Basic cast resin handle, only cost $12 or so. It's a cheap experiment worst case.

I do have a cheap drug store boar brush, but never use it since I preferred the softer badger lather but I will reattack with the boar.

I think the Omega and Semogue 1305 boar brushes are both fantastic low-rent brushes for any soap. I lean on a badger brush for creams but if I had to live with one, I go with the hog.

It's a very personal thing though. Good Luck.

Originally Posted by MisterMoo

I think the Omega and Semogue 1305 boar brushes are both fantastic low-rent brushes for any soap. I lean on a badger brush for creams but if I had to live with one, I go with the hog.

It's a very personal thing though. Good Luck.

was going to put the semogue suggestion forward myself