Thread: Anyone NOT Like a Smiley?

Once it looked something like my Joseph Rogers.

Originally Posted by Tarkus

I agree with Sharptonn the heel has to go to make it symmetrical, however this is not a large razor so removing a massive amount of heel will be dramatic and painful to your soul.

Attachment 179795

Ayyyeeee! I can feel the pain already. In fact, I think the Jedi can feel it as well.

Originally Posted by Hart

Once it looked something like my Joseph Rogers.

Damn, that is sweet. I have a bit of an affinity for Jos Rodgers and Son, too... A "The Rodgers" was my first straight (I really should get it restored), and... my last name is Rodgers, with family coming from England.

So... since fixing my blade seems to be major surgery, is there anyone you guys recommend to perform the healectomy?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Oh! It is NOT a faux-frameback. This is a 'rattler' grind!

Forgot to give proper thanks... thanks!!

Just did some research. I guess these are full hollow + some. I guess its the spine that adds the weight, as it is the heaviest of all of my razors.

You're getting some good help, Aldwyn.

I saw the marking on the blade for correction - that's why I'm posting. I get alot of blades that have a nice gracefully curved spine that have been brutalized on stones as if they had a straight edge and straight spine. You can spot them by the excessive spine wear in the middle and the middle bevel rarely gets sharp.

When you correct that bevel, a simple curve will still have the bevel out of parallel w/ the spine and continue to be a PITA to hone. The curve of the bevel needs to follow the curve of the spine - or how the spine was originally shaped. The spine is the 'fixture' that holds the bevel at the correct angle while honing. If the bevel isn't parallel, you're forever fighting w/ it. Correction is a long process. Don't be in a hurry to come off your course stone or diamond plate. With a heavy grind it might want several sessions. One long session can tax one's patience & care.

Its a handsome piece. After some labor, 'should give the joy you're looking for.

Originally Posted by Aldwyn

Forgot to give proper thanks... thanks!!

Just did some research. I guess these are full hollow + some. I guess its the spine that adds the weight, as it is the heaviest of all of my razors.

Look up "ken hawkley" he has a pdf showing all sorts of details of razors written by a sheffield razor grinder, rattlers are kind of like frameback blade thickness, but ground down from a wedge shaped razor. So like a heavy frameback. If you find the PDF you will see what i mean, and you will find out what a grob is too

Thanks for the info!

So if I am getting you correctly, the smile needs to go altogether? But heal being smaller then the toe to follow the curve of the blade?

And I wont be in a hurry on a course stone... I'll send it out to have someone else do it! I dont trust myself to hone my own razors. I'll buy some stones, and give it a go one day... but I dont think this one is the place to start!

Originally Posted by pinklather

You're getting some good help, Aldwyn.

I saw the marking on the blade for correction - that's why I'm posting. I get alot of blades that have a nice gracefully curved spine that have been brutalized on stones as if they had a straight edge and straight spine. You can spot them by the excessive spine wear in the middle and the middle bevel rarely gets sharp.

When you correct that bevel, a simple curve will still have the bevel out of parallel w/ the spine and continue to be a PITA to hone. The curve of the bevel needs to follow the curve of the spine - or how the spine was originally shaped. The spine is the 'fixture' that holds the bevel at the correct angle while honing. If the bevel isn't parallel, you're forever fighting w/ it. Correction is a long process. Don't be in a hurry to come off your course stone or diamond plate. With a heavy grind it might want several sessions. One long session can tax one's patience & care.

Its a handsome piece. After some labor, 'should give the joy you're looking for.

Originally Posted by edhewitt

Look up "ken hawkley" he has a pdf showing all sorts of details of razors written by a sheffield razor grinder, rattlers are kind of like frameback blade thickness, but ground down from a wedge shaped razor. So like a heavy frameback. If you find the PDF you will see what i mean, and you will find out what a grob is too

Is it Ken Hawley, you mean?

Actually it could look like this.
Rather than just swooping the edge. My preference would be to come in from the tang & shorten the edge length.
It's a big job but check out the work of some of the guys in the classifieds. They can do it.

Hi Aldwyn, Its not that the smile needs to go - it just needs to parallel the spine surface. The spine is curved - so there should be a curve to the bevel. In the photo w/ the magic marker, the curvature has no relation to the curve of the spine. In theory, the thickness of the spine (at the point it contacts the hone) is supposed to be about 1/4 the height of the blade. This works out to about a 15 deg. angle. If this ratio is not maintained, you'll be fighting to have bevel contact while honing where bevel isn't the same distance from the spine wear surface. This difficulty is where the guys go wrong & grind out the smile, thinking their straight stroke is supposed to do the trick. As the honorable Glen shared, the stroke needs to be either an arc, or some are able to have a rolling X-stroke connect w/ the whole length of a smiling blade. Before either stroke can be used, the bevel needs to be the same distance from the spine wear surface. If the spine is curved, the bevel needs to stay parallel (same distance) from the spine and curve with it. Then your rolling X or arcing stroke will smoothly traverse the entire length. And you'll have the smoothness we all want. I very much share your fondness for the smiling blade. Any more, I don't buy for personal use unless it has one. Best of luck w/ 'er. BTW - When Onimaru speaks about resto or honing, I listen carefully. There was stuff I didn't understand at the time, but kept remembering - and then the light came on while working a blade. I remain grateful for his kindness.

Pinklather makes some valid comments there & any solution for that razor is a compromise.
I imagine there may be some extra spine wear incurred after the repair & rehone but ces't la vie.