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Thread: Wedge vs. Hollow Ground

  1. #21
    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    Caught you napping again, matey - you will have to take a wedgie for the team...

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    I rest my case.

  2. #22
    Senior Member UKRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    A true wedge, referred to as a 'wedge', has straight sides coming to a point. That means that all of the blade lays on the hone and metal must be removed from all the surface of each side of the blade when honing..Neil
    Which would make honing almost impossible because of 'sticktion' - if you know what I mean.
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  3. #23
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKRob View Post
    Which would make honing almost impossible because of 'sticktion' - if you know what I mean.
    Not if you use a "false" temporary spine while honing otherwise yes.

    Bob
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  4. #24
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by UKRob View Post
    Which would make honing almost impossible because of 'sticktion' - if you know what I mean.
    Now don't start using techie words like 'stiction' round an old timer like me Rob, makes me long for the good old days...

    Incidentally, it can be done, I have done it a few times out of curiosity. Preliminary hone needs to be coarse and grainy, like a 325 diamond plate. Plenty of water with dish soap in it helps. I keep on the diamond plates up to 1000 grit, then onto a fast cutting turkish stone I got from Vasilis many years ago, heavily slurried. A bit of a strange jump, but the turk gets rid of the diamond scratches in no time. The slurry does make for the blade sticking to the hone, quite resolutely at times, so you must add water frequently.

    The characteristics of the turkish hone allows you to work the slurry out until you have clear water, then if the bevel is formed properly you can go straight to a coticule, heavily slurried and worked out to clear water again. If the bevel is a bit 'soft' (ie not crisp enough for you) the spine can always be taped and a micro bevel set with a man made hone.

    Its not fast, its not easy and the secondary bevel defeats the object, but if you have masochistic tendencies and a day to spare, go ahead and knock yourself out!

    Regards,
    Neil
    Last edited by Neil Miller; 02-24-2015 at 08:14 PM. Reason: correcting typos

  5. #25
    Senior Member Mephisto's Avatar
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    Well, it really comes down to preference. It is not that one is better than the other. I prefer 'wedges' or near wedges to the sticklers out there. Seriously, 1/4 hollow razors are my favorite. I can shave with the full hollow razors, but I just do not like them as much. I did not realize this till after a long road of discovery trying every imaginable grind, well, except for a true wedge. So for a beginner, if one can swing it, should try as many as possible or that you could afford. Of course, a beginner might get a terrible shave no matter the grind of the razor. So just make sure that the edge is in good condition. As far as honing goes, it is not awful, but for those with less experience 1/4 hollow grinds can be difficult to hone if it has a smile, but you can compensate for the curvature in the spine. I owned a pipe razor (about a 1/4 hollow) that was really easy to hone. I still feel I am a novice with sharpening razors and some just give me a hard time no matter what I do-hollow razors included. So if anyone says one is better than the other is just being a fanboy of a particular type of razor. It gets into an argument similar to which type of computer is better, Mac or PC, which is pointless. You are going to use what you like. So happy discoveries.
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  6. #26
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    I do not have an easy shave with hollows. Heavier grinds on heavier blades just make things sooooo much easier. For a beginner, were they to ask me (a beginner with straights), I would advise a half hollow or quarter hollow. But what do I know other than my own experience? So many seem to recommend ⅝ hollow as starter razors, which for me are the least enjoyable.

  7. #27
    Senior Member ultrasoundguy2003's Avatar
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    Well this is my submission of a wedge. Looks like you can split wood with it its so wedgey. See the tip.Name:  DSCF2645.jpg
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    Your only as good as your last hone job.

  8. #28
    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    I think for beginners the grind is less important than size and point, IMO.

    As people have said, a round point is a safer option initially than a square point. Additionally, a razor in the middle range, size wise, is probably safer in terms of handling and ergonomics while you learn the grips and angles that work for you - of course that can be person specific: people with bigger hands may find a 5/8 a bit fiddly for example.

    To me grind falls more into the preference category, though of course there are elements of ergonomics as well. The way I look at it, a properly honed razor has essentially the same edge regardless of grind, and that edge shaves whiskers properly. Flex, noise, heft and weight, ease of honing...to me these things are preferences.

    James.
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  9. #29
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003 View Post
    Well this is my submission of a wedge. Looks like you can split wood with it its so wedgey. See the tip.
    Might have been a wedge once but the stabiliser says its been hollowed.
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  10. #30
    There is no charge for Awesomeness Jimbo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    Might have been a wedge once but the stabiliser says its been hollowed.
    As does the bevel...

    James.
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