Thread: Question about sterilization

Originally Posted by scottiemann

I'm sure he doesnt let it sit in the bleach for much time and he cleans it immediately afterwards, he seems to do a lot of business from what I hear around this forum and I havent heard anything bad, just recommendations...

If it sits in bleach long enough to disinfect, then it has been in long enough to cause corrosion. Dip a blade into bleach and look at it under a microscope--the effect is immediate.

good point, not completely sure what he does post hone, but I plan on wiping it down with some alcohol and stropping it prior to first use regardless

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"Exposing the blood spots to one minute of an antiseptic was 100 percent effective in the case of bleach diluted at a ratio of 1:10,..."

I use MAR-V-CIDE on my blades. Spray it, wait a little bit, wipe it off. Done. Germs all gone......lol
Most germs on old razors don't exist. Good old fashion soap and hot water will do the trick.
But each to their own.
I wouldn't use bleach. Bad for metal and it stinks too!

Actually, I bought some Barbicide a while back and still haven't used it. If I'm going to use a blade I just use soap/water, dry it, and cover the blade with alcohol. I doubt that oil and cleaners with rust inhibitors I use are going to be very germ friendly either.
IMHO though, I think that WD should be using something like Barbicide or UV Sterilization instead of bleach and alcohol.

UV Sterilizers
If the blade isn't being used for different people, or you aren't buying a LOT of used razors, I don't really see the point in buying something like a UV sterilizer. They take up a lot more space than a jar of Barbicide too. Another possible reason they aren't mentioned much (or ever) is that a lot of guys prefer the 'old school' way of doing things when it comes to straight shaving.

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To answer the OPs question, before this gets derailed into the germaphobe rabbit hole...

Don't use flame on your blade. The edge is very, very thin and flame will make cause that edge to warp so that it has to be rehoned.

Don't "oven kiln" it either. To kill stuff you need to hold the temperature above 212 F for 15 minutes. That will pretty much ruin scales and unless you do a slow cool down will probably make the blade warp.

Barbicide works well. If you are really paranoid wipe it down multiple times.
Personally I use Hibicleanse and after it dries I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol.

Now back down the rabbit hole.
UV sterilizers also heat up the blade. I'm not sure if it is hot enough to mess the edge up or not because I haven't tried it.

I can understand using bleach water or even straight bleach on a rusted blade before restoring it. The damage caused by the bleach will be removed during the restoration process. I wouldn't put it on a blade after it was restored though.

Originally Posted by criswilson10

UV sterilizers also heat up the blade. I'm not sure if it is hot enough to mess the edge up or not because I haven't tried it.

I don't believe they all produce heat.

Sunlight also has UV light. If you are not in a rush, wrap the scales with a cloth and leave each side of the blade exposed to sunlight for a day or two.

Thats my plan, clean it up good and give it sunlight for a few days. I wouldnt buy a UV sterilizer as I have absolutely no need for one. I still have to order a strop so its almost useless until then... I'm sure its useable but I'd rather have a strop for it before I start using it.

Not sure about whipped dog , but no razor hone guy wants you to strop before you use it first , that way you can judge the edge. They hone then strop and send it out for you to shave ready to go. Try that before you strop , in the meantime practice stropping to get the muscle memory going, a butter knife and you pants leg will do till you get a strop, or any flat surface or a belt hung on a hook , your just trying to learn the move and not roll your first good edge. Tc