Thread: once over shave?

I've been doing a little reading in the library section and came across a shaving chapter in a barber manual

http://straightrazorpalace.com/compo...d,3/mode,view/

I'm going to quote this source a couple of times here.

Now just like everybody else here I'm looking to remove as much facial hair as possible without irritating the skin. In this manual it says

"the second time over serves to remove any rough or unshaven spots. Close shaving is the practice of shaving the beard against the grain of the hair during the second time over. This practice is undesirable because it irritates the skin and may lead to infection or ingrown hairs."

and

"the once over shave takes less time for a complete and even shave. For a once over shave, give a few more strokes across the grain when completing each shaving movement. This will assure a complete and even shave with a single lathering."

Alright, a few questions now. On the second part I didn't quite understand the "few more strokes across the grain when completing each shaving movement" part. It seems like that would be even more irritating because you have already removed the lather. I realize most people on this forum shave multiple passes without irritation and it seems like when I was trying to get a good shave with a single pass I found myself doing more strokes and using more pressure. I'm starting to think that an extra close shave in a single pass isn't so realistic and the extra movement without the lather as lubrication would be more irritating than another pass with lather.

If anybody practices a good once over shave and can tell me what I'm doing wrong or can shed some light on the situation in general that would be fan-frickin-tastic.

also, I'm using a feather AC straight. I realize pressure should be about non-existent and the angle should be significantly reduced (with the spine almost touching the skin) but if there are any other pointers (like on second and/or third passes) this would be greatly appreciated also.

I can't tell you how to use the feather because I haven't used one. However, if you notice on the video of lynn he takes the lather off, and then adds a couple of small strokes in the area he just took the lather off. I use that same method.

My impression from what the manual says is that you make the firt pass across the grain? It could also be that you make the first pass down, and then similarly to the motion described above you make a couple more short strokes across the grain. Doesn't sound very practical either way to me.

I cannot do more than one pass with a straight as I get too much irritation. I get zero irritation and a close (not perfect) shave on the first pass with the technique described above.

Good luck!

Those passages from the manual, while sagely, are generalizations. Each man must find his own best way through.

My small beard is stubborn and I usually do a kind of once over. Once the first pass is done, I merely wet my face with water for the ATG pass. There is enough lubricity remaining from the previous lathering to get me through well. Contrary to what the manual says, I experience the most irritation from not shaving.

X

My guess is that the manual refers to the quality of shave expected in the 19th century. The definition of a "close shave" may therefore differ a bit from nowadays expectation of a BBS shave.

No matter how much I would like to be done with a one-pass shave, as long as I don't go against the grain the shave is nowhere near to be called close. And yes, my razors are nice and sharp

YMMV,
-Axel-

The barber manual from 1960's era says the same thing.

For my beard, no matter how sharp or what type of blade, a once over is never enough.

Generally, my first pass is with the grain and then I relather for a cross-grain pass, which just means that if my beard grows down in a particular area, I shave from from left to right.

X is right though, you need to find what works best for your beard type and growth pattern. The suggestions in the barber's manual is for professionals to give their customers a good shave without the irritation because an irritated customer may not come back.

After making a stroke with the grain, immediately shave the same patch across the grain. Your blade winds up making a series of chevron strokes down your face. Although you removed the lather in your first stroke, there's enough residual slickness left that you can easily do the cross-grain stroke. Do it quickly though, as that residual slickness goes away within a few (5-10) seconds.

This is my usual workday M-F shave.

+1 on the chevrons. I never thought about it really - I always assumed I was doing a single wtg pass, but if I analyze it, I am shaving two different angles 90 degrees apart on every part of my cheeks because of the way my hairs there grow.

BTW - my pre-shave oil will leave enough residual lubrication to do a second pass straight away. Maybe that would help?

Si

The manual and MParker line up with me.
On a single pass, I do multiple angle stokes on each area of my face before I move on to the next. Their is enough moisture after the lather is removed on the first stroke to immediately go across the grain.
The result is a quality shave in less time.
HOWEVER, if I am enjoying myself and have plenty of time, I'll relather and go at it again---partly for a slight improvement in the final result, and partly just for FUN!
Ron

your mistake is mistaking a Feather for a straight razor, completely different beasts.

so what would you recommend with the feather? I realize that it is sharper and less forgiving and that I should use a lot less pressure and less angle but aside from that I figure most of the same priciples apply. Preparation (lots of hot water, steaming, lather) is still important, lather or lubrication is still very important during the shaving process. We still want to go with the grain first and avoid too much pressure. I don't mean to be difficult but if I'm missing anything I really want to know.