Thread: The angle....

Originally Posted by RayClem

Somewhere on the forum is a thread that contains some diagrams of proper blade angles when using a straight razor. I do not remember the exact angles, but is is something like 30 degrees on the 1st pass WTG, 20 degrees on the 2nd pass XTG, and then about 10 degrees on the 3rd pass ATG. Thus, the thought is that as the beard is progressively reduced, you lessen the blade angle.

Since every beard differs in length and coarseness and every face differs in shape and sensitivity, each shaver use whatever angles work for them. The angle might also differ slightly with the angle of the bevel of the razor you are using. If you are getting a close, comfortable shave, your technique is right for you, no matter what anyone else does, writes or shows in a video.

I totally agree to that. In the end of the day, what's important is you get the closest shave for you without nicks or cuts.

OK I feel a little vindicated then lol.

I remember the first few months of straight shaving and I was using a shavette. At some point I tried using a perpendicular approach. Not sure if I saw it in a movie or what. I remember terrible razor burn being the result.

It was then that I decided to start with the razor parallel to the skin and widen the angle only enough to shave. Seemed much more forgiving of my technique mistakes.

Originally Posted by apamburn

OK I feel a little vindicated then lol.

I remember the first few months of straight shaving and I was using a shavette. At some point I tried using a perpendicular approach. Not sure if I saw it in a movie or what. I remember terrible razor burn being the result.

It was then that I decided to start with the razor parallel to the skin and widen the angle only enough to shave. Seemed much more forgiving of my technique mistakes.

Yes sir, when you start opening the angle up at some point you go from cutting to scraping and a lot of irritation follows. Same holds true for DE/SE razors.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

Yes sir, when you start opening the angle up at some point you go from cutting to scraping and a lot of irritation follows. Same holds true for DE/SE razors.

Bob

Could not agree more. My face doesn't like anything greater than 30 degrees, and it isn't shy about lighting me up to let me know as much.

Of course in that same thread RayClem mentioned, I think it was Kelbro said he'd been using 45 degrees for years. Guess it all depends on what you & your face like.

Me & mine like closer to 20 degrees/1 spine width away. YMMV.

Originally Posted by RayClem

Somewhere on the forum is a thread that contains some diagrams of proper blade angles when using a straight razor. I do not remember the exact angles, but is is something like 30 degrees on the 1st pass WTG, 20 degrees on the 2nd pass XTG, and then about 10 degrees on the 3rd pass ATG. Thus, the thought is that as the beard is progressively reduced, you lessen the blade angle.

Actually, I think it has more to do with angle of approach of the hairs being at different angles rather than the progressive reduction.

If you've been shaving 10 years with good results, you're doing it right!

I keep my razor angled about 2 spine widths for the first pass and 1 spine width for the second. On the rare occasion that I do a third pass, the spine is almost touching my face. The only spot that I use a somewhat higher angle is under my nose, simply because the nose is in the way.

If you want to see good technique watch Lynn or GeoFatBoy. One to two spine widths will give you a comfortable close shave. Advice, don't watch shows on television showing straight razor shaving.

Originally Posted by BobH

No, I don't think you are doing anything wrong. I generally have about 1 or 2 spine widths gap between skin and razor's spine.

Bob

This is something as a new guy I've really bean working on, not letting the blade angle open up too wide. I really have trouble with the area right under my nostrils, I have nicked myself right under the left nostril a number of times. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

This is something as a new guy I've really bean working on, not letting the blade angle open up too wide. I really have trouble with the area right under my nostrils, I have nicked myself right under the left nostril a number of times. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

Yup, grow a mustache like I have. I am sure someone will be along with some good suggestions soon.

Bob

Originally Posted by MajesticShaver

This is something as a new guy I've really bean working on, not letting the blade angle open up too wide. I really have trouble with the area right under my nostrils, I have nicked myself right under the left nostril a number of times. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks.

The only thing I have found to work well for under the nose (upper lip, in general):

1. keen edge. If your blade is not well honed you will feel it here.

2. stretch the skin. One way is to draw the upper lip down so that the skin is tight against the upper teeth. This will help expose some of those hard to reach areas.

3. for under the nose, a slight curved motion can help but you will still get the steep angle.

4. go across the grain (XTG). Often times I don't bother going strictly 'with the grain' on my upper lip. I use one hand to stretch my upper lip to the side by placing my fingers on my cheek approximately where the corner of my mouth is and applying pressure on my cheek downwards while also opening my mouth. I end up with my fingers kind of pushing on my lower jaw. I then shave across starting from the corner of my mouth up towards the center of my upper lip. This allows me to avoid the bad angle of a WTG approach. I then reverse and do the same thing from the other side of my face.

But I could be preaching false doctrine. If what I just said is heresy, someone please correct.

Hope that helps.