Thread: Frustration...

Originally Posted by SmooveRN

What I wouldn't give for one of those 2006 B&B limited edition horn or ivory brush that's NOS... what beauty!

Of course you know "pretty" alone won't give you a better shave .

Before you decided to use a str8 what did you shave with (eg, cartridge, DE, electric, etc.) and did you have any problems with irritation, ingrown hairs, etc. with those razors? You might consider reducing the number of variables... ie, get shaving perfected using one razor, one soap, one brush... that way you'll "only" have to worry about stropping, lather and prep, and technique... and that's plenty. Once you've optimized around that you can then experiment with different soaps, razors and brushes.

Originally Posted by SmooveRN

I am getting both terrible drag and razor burn out the wazoo. ... I know what you are thinking... angle, position, lather, preparation...

Well mostly that's what I'm thinking... most times I find it's razor sharpness, angle, and prep.

• Regardless of who honed your razor/how sharp it was when you got it, the question is how sharp is it when you are ready to shave. Razor edges are delicate and poor stropping can destroy an edge in an instant. Are you sure of your stropping technique? And you are stropping before you shave, aren't you? I won't quite go as far as to say forget the HHT and arm hair tests, but the true test, and the only one that matters in the end, is whether you get a close comfortable shave... when you do, your razor is sharp. When you don't, it most likely isn't. You probably know what shaving with a dull cartridge or DE razor feels like... if you feel the same thing when you're shaving with a str8 then it's not sharp enough, period end of story.
• angle is important... somewhere in the 15-30 degree range will work. Too steep an angle can deform the edge slightly since your scraping the whiskers off instead of slicing through them... this can "bend" the micro micro thin edge enough to create skin irritation and in the extreme, require a honing session to reestablish a good edge. (I used to do the "scraping" thing in my chin area when I first started... had to re-hone every couple shaves. Once I stopped that, my honing intervals decreased to weeks... and yes, once my honing technique improved, the interval went to months).
• prep is important... are you sure your beard is soft when you are ready to shave? You don't tell us whether you're beard is tough as nails or average. How sensitive is your skin? At one extreme, some people shave only with water, and at the other extreme some need pre-shave oils and good lather to fully soften their beards and protect delicate skin. Where are you in this continuum? Are you using enough soap/water in making your lather? Too little soap (or too much water) and you simply whip up a big pile of lather that may not lubricate and slip nicely even though it softens your beard... I find I get more irritation when I inadvertently do this. Too much soap (or too little water) and you may find your lather is too thick and/or dries out too soon causing extra drag and irritation. Every soap is different, so you have to experiment with each one to know what ratio is best for that particular brand and type of soap or creme.

Originally Posted by azjoe

Of course you know "pretty" alone won't give you a better shave .

I know that, but a hair brush does make a better lather, and the old boar's hair brush I have is at best on it's last leg.

Originally Posted by azjoe

Before you decided to use a str8 what did you shave with (eg, cartridge, DE, electric, etc.) and did you have any problems with irritation, ingrown hairs, etc. with those razors? You might consider reducing the number of variables... ie, get shaving perfected using one razor, one soap, one brush... that way you'll "only" have to worry about stropping, lather and prep, and technique... and that's plenty. Once you've optimized around that you can then experiment with different soaps, razors and brushes.
Well mostly that's what I'm thinking... most times I find it's razor sharpness, angle, and prep.

• Regardless of who honed your razor/how sharp it was when you got it, the question is how sharp is it when you are ready to shave. Razor edges are delicate and poor stropping can destroy an edge in an instant. Are you sure of your stropping technique? And you are stropping before you shave, aren't you? I won't quite go as far as to say forget the HHT and arm hair tests, but the true test, and the only one that matters in the end, is whether you get a close comfortable shave... when you do, your razor is sharp. When you don't, it most likely isn't. You probably know what shaving with a dull cartridge or DE razor feels like... if you feel the same thing when you're shaving with a str8 then it's not sharp enough, period end of story.
• angle is important... somewhere in the 15-30 degree range will work. Too steep an angle can deform the edge slightly since your scraping the whiskers off instead of slicing through them... this can "bend" the micro micro thin edge enough to create skin irritation and in the extreme, require a honing session to reestablish a good edge. (I used to do the "scraping" thing in my chin area when I first started... had to re-hone every couple shaves. Once I stopped that, my honing intervals decreased to weeks... and yes, once my honing technique improved, the interval went to months).
• prep is important... are you sure your beard is soft when you are ready to shave? You don't tell us whether you're beard is tough as nails or average. How sensitive is your skin? At one extreme, some people shave only with water, and at the other extreme some need pre-shave oils and good lather to fully soften their beards and protect delicate skin. Where are you in this continuum? Are you using enough soap/water in making your lather? Too little soap (or too much water) and you simply whip up a big pile of lather that may not lubricate and slip nicely even though it softens your beard... I find I get more irritation when I inadvertently do this. Too much soap (or too little water) and you may find your lather is too thick and/or dries out too soon causing extra drag and irritation. Every soap is different, so you have to experiment with each one to know what ratio is best for that particular brand and type of soap or creme.

I had absolutely no problems before I started straight shaving. None. I had used a Mach 3 since they came out way back when.

I have a Tony Miller 3" Artisan in Red Latigo and Genuine Linen. It works very well.

But I believe this all boils down to two things:

- Technique

- keenness of the razor edge.

All great advice. I will shave here in a little bit and the young grasshopper will report back!

Best of luck with that next shave - I hope it goes better for you!

Originally Posted by quinnx

But Ouch! Not sure what this should feel like to know... I'm getting the little cutting noise, and not too afraid, other then being total useless with the "off hand". First shave no cuts or razor burn. Second shave minor drop of blood from a mole right in the center of my cheek and some burn. Cheeks smooth, chin sucks.

Now let me ask you...is it meant to go like a "hot knife throught butter" or a little "pull/clip" (I know bad words to use) that goes unnoticed (but remains) after you become more familiar? I am fully aware that my technique has to improve, etc. but just searching for a clearer explanation of what I should or shouldn't feel.

1. I am sort of new to this myself, been about 6 months, but I can reassure you that what you are experiencing is normal
2. the chin is the hardest part of the face to get right without hurting yourself. the cheeks are much easier, and if you are getting them right, then you are well on your way.
3. no, even my sharpest razor with my best lather and my lightest touch makes a noise like toast being buttered except quieter. i think this is a function of individual hair stiffness
4. to the parent who said he needed a better brush... sorry, but no. best shave i've ever had was from a 4$ burma shave brush from walmart. badger brushes are really cool, but definitely not a prerequisite to a comfy shave.
5. when i first started, i noticed my neck was sometimes a bit chafed, and upon filming myself and watching it (felt so stupid, but helped a lot) i noticed that as i followed the curve of my neck, i wasn't QUITE maintaining a constant angle, relative to my skin. being aware of this and focusing on it helps a LOT

Jockey's, thanks for the notes. Five days in and things are better...stropping, faster shaving, chin still sucks but I am pleased with the improvements. Valentines day suprise...received a a C & E best brush...was in process of purchasing the standard, but was told to step up as a gift!

Life is good!

When you shave how much are you leaving behind (how smooth is your skin)? If not a lot then the angle is to steep. If a lot is being left behind then the razor is duller than it should be. I can shave with a dull razor and still not get irritation but the stubble left behind is a lot. The first week, at least, just do a single pass. You will get pretty good shaves with a single pass. I have been doing this for only 1.5 months but I have made every mistake in the book. You'll get it!



Take Care,
Richard

This mornings shave was BBS!

I had to lighten up on the pressure when honing, and alter my angle when going around my neck and jaw line.

So good! Today will be a great day!

And the sun is shining!!!

Congrats! Great feeling, huh?

Jordan

When you step away from the sink doesn't it feel like you could tear the stripe off a stripped ape?



You are on your way.

Take care,
Richard

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

For me, its all about using a light touch, thinking about just how deep I need to stroke into my face to actually only cut the whisker. I don't need to ADD drag by stroking the blade against my skin. A straight razor shouldn't be treated like a regular razor (coated in teflon or whatever). The actual contact with the skin should be light and gentle. Its almost as if you gently move the blade to the base of the whisker and with perfect precision shave only the hair off. Ofcourse your stroke has to come in along your skin line or you'll cut yourself.

The best analogy I can give you would be like an airplane swooping in for strafing run. It doesn't bang into the ground (you just lightly touch the skin) and then it rises back upward.

I think you could almost teach someone by telling the student "shave this guy without touching his skin" and you'd be close to the way I shave. I make contact with the skin but its very, very light.

Its almost like I'm shaving my face without touching it. Once you get there you'll know it because its an incredibly close shave and irritation free.

All it requires is skill and a true concentration on each stroke.

This is a great post, Alan! A great description of what needs to happen between the razor and your face! - and how to get it done correctly.

Thanks,

Steve