Thread: Shaving against the grain

Originally Posted by jnich67

Is there any spot that you can shave against the grain? I found a few spots were easier to go ATG than others. I started with those places and expanded. As my technique improved, the razor became less likely to hang up. Try just working to improve a little bit each time.

Most days, I still only go ATG on my neck and under my jaw. XTG gets me very close to BBS everywhere else. If I have a big occasion, I go ATG everywhere.

Jordan

Great point! It's so important to map your beard and try different directions.

I have been shaving exclusively with a straight only the last few weeks. The first few I went as far as I could and resorted to my Merkur 39C to finish up. The chin, mustache, and under the jaw line being the spots that I couldn't get with the straight.

Finding a forum member who lives thirty minutes away with a few years of shaving and honing under his belt has helped a lot. I am not yet ready to offer my services for honing other peoples razors but I can get some of my own up to the task.

Now I am trying to develop skill in manipulating the blade. I have an angular face with hollows in the neck and some areas of my beard are tough. I find that on some areas I can only go in one direction not because of my being WTG or ATG but because I feel awkward in holding and moving the razor in those positions. I am doing a two pass shave daily in whichever direction works for me.

I have two friends who shave ambidextrously and they tell me that it is much easier to get a good shave. I am not yet ready to try shaving with opposite hands. I may give it a try after I get shaving with the right hand down pat. At that point perhaps I can start giving the ATG a try on all areas.

I find these discussions interesting. It really does show that we are all individuals and what works for one man doesn't always work for another.

For me it's simple. When I go to shave in the morning, I expect my straight razor to shave against the grain as easily as a throw away razor will. If a blade hangs against the grain it isn't sharp enough and I will not give it shelf space. Life is just too short.I like to enjoy my morning shave just as much as I enjoy my breakfast.

What is clear to me is that some men have tougher beards than others and some razors take a sharper edge than others.

I agree that good preparation is essential, but for me, a blade that hangs against the beard is just not sharp enough. So I would check this out first. If after a professional sharpening, the problem persists, I'd look to getting a different razor that holds a sharper edge.

Unfortunately, it is this aspect of straight razor shaving that doesn't really get enough airing. Finding a suitable razor takes time, patience and sometimes, a little money.

I have owned probably 100 straight razors and I would say 10 of them were just too old to be used, 50 of them did not suit me and 40 of them I could get a good shave from any morning with some slightly better than others. The 50 that did not suit me were all really good razors. Some were too heavy, some the blade size didn't suit, some did not hold an edge sharp enough for me, some were too stiff a blade for me, etc.,etc.,
One thing is certain, one man's meat is another man's poison.

In conclusion, you may have to change your razor.

Originally Posted by English

For me it's simple. When I go to shave in the morning, I expect my straight razor to shave against the grain as easily as a throw away razor will. If a blade hangs against the grain it isn't sharp enough and I will not give it shelf space. Life is just too short.I like to enjoy my morning shave just as much as I enjoy my breakfast...

...Unfortunately, it is this aspect of straight razor shaving that doesn't really get enough airing. Finding a suitable razor takes time, patience and sometimes, a little money...

I think you're making a very good point and I agree with it - to an extent.

Technique and control of the razor - being able to "put" the razor where you want it, how you want it, angle, etc. also impact how well a razor cuts.

For example, a keen razor will shave me perfectly over most of my face, but when going against the grain around and up and over the curve of my chin requires spot on technique. If the technique is off and I don't change the angle correctly as I move through the stroke, the blade will hang up. If the stroke is correct, it won't. Just more stuff to think on

Of course having a keen edge is key. All of it has to come together.

Jordan

Originally Posted by English

...So I would check this out first. If after a professional sharpening, the problem persists, I'd look to getting a different razor that holds a sharper edge.

Unfortunately, it is this aspect of straight razor shaving that doesn't really get enough airing. Finding a suitable razor takes time, patience and sometimes, a little money.

I have owned probably 100 straight razors and I would say 10 of them were just too old to be used, 50 of them did not suit me and 40 of them I could get a good shave from any morning with some slightly better than others. The 50 that did not suit me were all really good razors. Some were too heavy, some the blade size didn't suit, some did not hold an edge sharp enough for me, some were too stiff a blade for me, etc.,etc.,
One thing is certain, one man's meat is another man's poison.

In conclusion, you may have to change your razor.

Sweet rationalization for getting a new razor!!!! Allelueah!

Well though out, reasonable, perfect RAD justification. Sir, I tip my hat to you!

All kidding aside, he is right. A new razor may be just the ticket.

Originally Posted by English

In conclusion, you may have to change your razor.

Yes, I think so! I think I will put up a trade offer in the B/S/T later today [Edit: I thought wrong! Ain't gonna happen after all]

No one mentioned face-sensetivity...I get irritation, in some places on my face, from ATG with even a new Mach-3. Even using a very keen straight hasn't avoided that problem. Sometimes when I shave ATG, and it seems like it's a good clean stroke (smooth and no pulling), I'll then see blood beading up through the lather...

Sometimes, a good shaving oil can add protection and glide. This can be helpful for sensitive skin. REN makes a really good oil and so does T&H. What you don't want is an oil that is like olive oil that sucks the blade onto the skin rather than lubricates. If it won't wash off your hands easily with warm water, don't put on your face.

On top of the oil you can use a shaving cream (not out of a can). Something like Taylor's Avocado should be good. No nasty chemicals or dyes or essential oils to inflame your sensitive skin. You want a shaving cream made specifically for sensitive skin. There are plenty of them out there.

I honestly believe that a straight razor that is very sharp and used delicately will be less likely to cut your skin than anything made by Gillette in the last 30 years. I think a straight razor is the best (and safest) a man can get when it is used correctly.

You have my sympathies and I hope this helps.

On this point, I ask another question: Is it worth it?

I have course hair and a thick beard. I usually do a WTG, with a few touch ups, and it comes pretty darn close to what I'd get ATG. I've done it before, but it does take some effort for me. It takes longer, and irritates the skin slightly, but the final result from the ATG is not that much more close than the WTG. There are a few problem areas I do need to touch up after the WTG, but usually all it takes is to go sideways. As for sharpness, I used to go against the grain with the mach3, since that was the only way to get a decently close shave with it, but even then it felt like it was ripping most of the hair out. I've wondered if the open blade is guided into the skin more, where the mack3 has a cartridge that helps prevent that and helps to rip out the hair more effectively. Anyway, I don't think ATG is worth the time. It's just going to grow back anyway, and why subject your skin to more abuse if you don't have to?

Originally Posted by Mud Duck

Anyway, I don't think ATG is worth the time. It's just going to grow back anyway, and why subject your skin to more abuse if you don't have to?

Honestly, I'm getting a little fed up with my own personal quest for BBS with a straight razor!

This is why we've invented a plethora of devices to shave with. And the reason, as stated in the quote above, why a lot of men with coarse beards throw in the towel.

No matter what I use I'm able to get mostly passable results. Same goes for a DE, Cartridge, Electric, Blah blah blah... Can you tell I'm a little disappointed?

I still enjoy the ritual though, so I guess I'll make the most of it.

BTW I followed the prep I mentioned earlier in this thread and found it to be a little overkill. Except the part with leaving the Proraso on till the end of the shower. That works great!