Thread: I can't get close!

I may just be doomed, but it seems I can not get a close shave. I've been using a straight for about 3 weeks, I use a DOVO Black Star 5/8 that I honed myself, and also a DOVO Classic 4/8 that was honed by Lynn. Both seem to perform the same, so I assume my honing is decent.

I am confident in my stropping, as I've practiced the technique with cheap eBay razors and a cheap eBay strop before I got my nice supplies. I use a nice DOVO hanging strop.

For soap, I am using Classic brand Bay Rum from classicshaving.com. I am using a badger brush from The Art of Shaving. I hone on a Norton 4000/8000, and I have lapped it with the Norton flattening stone.

I do not think it is my technique in prepping the blade, but rather my technique shaving. I go once with the grain, once cross grain, and I still have a scratchy face. When I use a Mach 3, I get identical results. The only way I get a truly close shave with the Mach 3 is going against the grain. I have tried that twice with a straight, and got 2 ugly cuts that have barely healed in a week. The closeness however, was perfect, I'd just like to keep the skin intact.

I decided to try straights, because the against the grain mach 3 was horribly uncomfortable, loads of razor burn (I actually used to use an electric for day-to-day shaving, so I could have a nice shave without a red face for special occasions).

Is there anything else I should try? I'm pretty sure its a problem because of how my beard grows, or the way the hair itself is.

Thank you.

Originally Posted by drotski

I may just be doomed, but it seems I can not get a close shave. I've been using a straight for about 3 weeks, I use a DOVO Black Star 5/8 that I honed myself, and also a DOVO Classic 4/8 that was honed by Lynn. Both seem to perform the same, so I assume my honing is decent.

I am confident in my stropping, as I've practiced the technique with cheap eBay razors and a cheap eBay strop before I got my nice supplies. I use a nice DOVO hanging strop.

For soap, I am using Classic brand Bay Rum from classicshaving.com. I am using a badger brush from The Art of Shaving. I hone on a Norton 4000/8000, and I have lapped it with the Norton flattening stone.

I do not think it is my technique in prepping the blade, but rather my technique shaving. I go once with the grain, once cross grain, and I still have a scratchy face. When I use a Mach 3, I get identical results. The only way I get a truly close shave with the Mach 3 is going against the grain. I have tried that twice with a straight, and got 2 ugly cuts that have barely healed in a week. The closeness however, was perfect, I'd just like to keep the skin intact.

Is there anything else I should try? I'm pretty sure its a problem because of how my beard grows, or the way the hair itself is.

Thank you.

I have the Black Star also. When you go N->S one pass, are they sticky feeling? You say you are honing are you pasting the edge after the hone? What processes are you using to get your razor sharp?

Take Care,
Richard

You may want to try mapping your face and your beard growth. I found that my beard growth was not at all what I thought so I would actually start shaving XTG vice WTG on first pass. I was getting quite a bit of discomfort and some razor burn until I learned the correct directions to shave and of course management of angle and pressure (or should I say lack of pressure).

Someting to think about...

Always keep the razor at about 30 degrees to your face. How is your skin prep?

If you have a heavy beard like I do, the first WTG pass isn't that great. I can do better with a disposable. The ATG pass is where the magic happens. Experience will lessen the bloodletting.

Give it two passes before you go against the grain. I will go one pass with, one pass across then the final pass against to get the baby bottom smooth finish. Use a light touch, if the blade wants to stick or you have to force it on the against the grain stroke try going with another cross grain pass going the opposite direction as the last. It could also be the hone and the blade type. I have a very stiff beard, something I was reminded of after I cut the beard off after 20 years. A stiffer blade works best for me. My best shaves come from stiff bladed hollow grind stainless blades or a wedge. The larger blades 6/8 or bigger also tends to work best for me.

Originally Posted by cannonfodder

Give it two passes before you go against the grain. I will go one pass with, one pass across then the final pass against to get the baby bottom smooth finish. Use a light touch, if the blade wants to stick or you have to force it on the against the grain stroke try going with another cross grain pass going the opposite direction as the last. It could also be the hone and the blade type. I have a very stiff beard, something I was reminded of after I cut the beard off after 20 years. A stiffer blade works best for me. My best shaves come from stiff bladed hollow grind stainless blades or a wedge. The larger blades 6/8 or bigger also tends to work best for me.

+1 on the ATG advice here.

I found out that, when going ATG, the whiskers act almost like small anchors that the blade gets caugt on, causing the blade to dig into the skin rather than cut the whiskers. I'm thinking maybe a scything motion or perhaps moving the blade toe leading will help remedy this.

Excellent advice so far, I do all these things. One thing for me is to make sure that my blade is very flat. This makes it harder to cut yourself and cuts the irritation down to a minimum. The sharper the razor the more you can lay the blade down, dull razors will only cut ATG at a higher angle. I have found cuts happen, other than slicing, when the angle is high and the skin starts to "raise" in front of the blade. The type of cuts that you get leave a little "flap" of skin are nasty and take a long time to heal but are an indication that the angle of the blade was to steep. Go to the basics that we all learned in the beginning, the steeper the angle the harder it is on our skin, burns and cuts happen way to often.


Hope this works for you,
Richard

Originally Posted by riooso

I have found cuts happen, other than slicing, when the angle is high and the skin starts to "raise" in front of the blade.

And that's why you have to pull your skin taut when you shave.

Originally Posted by Kees

And that's why you have to pull your skin taut when you shave.

I agree with that but it only lessens the problem. If your angle is to high it will dig in when it catches a clump of hair when going ATG.


Take Care,
R