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  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I knew a half dozen barbers over a twenty five year period beginning in the mid '60s. When I asked about their preference in straight razors all of them preferred Solingen made full hollows. A few specifically mentioned Dubl Duck and one I recall favored FWE . Back in the early '60s when a buck would buy you lunch, a pack of Camels and a gallon of gasoline you paid a couple of dollars for a barber to shave you.

    It was a treat that I engaged in a few times but working for a dollar an hour as many did in those days I didn't indulge myself too often. I can't recall getting an uncomfortable shave in the half dozen times I went for it. I guess that those guys had to maintain a level of expertise if they wanted a customer to come back.

    By the mid '70s very few barbers still offered shaves where I was. The older guys didn't want to be bothered I guess or maybe at the five bucks it had gone up to. Not many customers wanted to spend the money. By then the hair stylist was replacing the old time barber shop and they didn't offer shaves ever. For me I get good shaves out of either full hollow or heavier grinds if they are sharp enough. If it pulls it isn't shave ready for me. That chrom ox is magic stuff and can make a heck of a difference BTW.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  2. #12
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    Oh dear, looks like I've caused a bit of a stir. I'm not a honer, I tried and really couldn't be bothered with all the messing around, I just want to shave comfortably. Since I've been using a brush and soap for over 20 years I would say I'm fairly well experienced in that department. The guy who hones my razors seems to know what he's doing as the Joseph Rogers pair I bought from him ages ago are still shaving nicely. My TI has always felt harsh even on the second pass when their is very little stubble left despite being honed a few times. I have decided to experiment with more wedgy razors as they seem to suit my heavy beard better.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Karakoup1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbelus maximus View Post
    Oh dear, looks like I've caused a bit of a stir. I'm not a honer, I tried and really couldn't be bothered with all the messing around, I just want to shave comfortably. Since I've been using a brush and soap for over 20 years I would say I'm fairly well experienced in that department. The guy who hones my razors seems to know what he's doing as the Joseph Rogers pair I bought from him ages ago are still shaving nicely. My TI has always felt harsh even on the second pass when their is very little stubble left despite being honed a few times. I have decided to experiment with more wedgy razors as they seem to suit my heavy beard better.
    Ave Barbelus Maximus!

    I honestly think that you should re-hone your str8 razor from the beginning, meaning honing from a 1000 grit stone (or other) and going up...

    New razors are NOT honed as they should because the manufacturers don't want to damage either the spine nor the gold imprint for esthetic reasons...

    Consequently, they are not shave-ready has one could imagine...

    Have a great day!

    BBS yours,

    Valentin

  4. #14
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Barbelus Maximus. Great username reminds me of Python's "Life of Brian" but I digress.

    Just another thought. If you're really sure its honed correctly maybe your stropping is causing the problem. A microscope is a great way to confirm both these things.
    You obviously have experience with wet shaving but how many straights have you stropped. Is it possible your wedges can tolerate a few bad passes compared to the thinner TI.

    Hang in there it's all fun and learning. Hope you sort it out.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  5. #15
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    Thanks for all the answers. I don't do honing!!!!!!!! I hadn't considered a stropping problem. To be honest it pretty well looks like the TI will be retired as I really do just want to shave and be on my way.

  6. #16
    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    Get your TI professionally honed and then just practice practice practice. Your technique is more important than a razor's grind especially while you're just learning how to shave with a straight. If you've already had it pro-sharpened and you still get better shaves from other razors, then my opinion is that you should shelve it for awhile or send it to me for permanent testing

    Quote Originally Posted by thebigspendur View Post
    As you go from grind to grind the feel of the razor does change however as long as the razor is shave ready I don't care what kind of beard you have you should be getting a close and comfortable shave no matter the grind. if you don't you need to do more honing. remember that most barbers (many years ago) used hollow grinds and they had to shave everyone who walked into their shop. If the big razor guys were right and you can't get a comfortable shave from a 5/8s hollow grind if you have a tough beard how did the barbers of yesteryears do it?
    I was about to point out something that I have finally come to a conclusion about, then I saw that gugi already noted it: Just because barbers could give anyone a shave with a sharp full hollow doesn't mean that it was a great shave or even a good shave. People would have just taken what they could get if they needed a shave from a barber.

    Today on SRP there are dozens of members who claim to get great comfortable smooth and clean shaves on a regular basis and many who do use hollow ground razors. I am happy for them! It hasn't worked for me though. I can shave with a hollow, but I have to sacrifice closeness or comfort. I don't think I have the luxury of getting both with a hollow grind razor. I've tried stainless steel hollows, big hollows, small hollows, heavy hollows, and extra hollows. None of them give me as close and comfortable shave as my wapienica (quarter hollow) does. None of them match my little narrow wedge razor. I have some larger heavy big wedges that are comfortable, and they don't give me as close a shave as my other razors, but they're always comfortable. Is it my technique? I'll admit the possibility and even invite anyone who gets a close, comfortable shave from a hollow to spend a day and a night in my home and show me how it's done on my face. I'd love to get a great shave from a hollow just to show myself that I don't know as much as I think I do

    Bigger is better? I've not noticed any comfort difference between big razors and small razors either by length or width or weight. Some people say that is a big factor for them, so I think everyone is probably different to a degree in that regard. I do seem to get closer shaves with smaller razors, but I think that is a function of a smaller razor accommodating my technique rather than the razor actually reacting more favorably with my hair based on the razor's size alone.

    bigspendur let me send you a list of hollows that I still have laying around and let me know if you're willing to sharpen one up for me the way you say it needs to be. I am intent to get a good shave from one if it is at all possible I don't think my hair grows very densely on my face, but it could be that something about the hair itself and my skin doesn't respond as well to the geometry of a hollow razor on my face as it does to a wedge razor.

    Don't get me wrong though, I can shave with a hollow ground razor and look just fine for work. But as soon as I get to work I start rubbing my chin stubble wondering why I didn't shave with a wedge instead
    Last edited by hoglahoo; 07-17-2008 at 02:01 PM.
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

  7. #17
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    On the subject of practice I have been using a straight exclusively for almost a year now and consider myself pretty accomplished, I do a 2 pass shave every day and rarely get nicks or cuts and have had no irritation for many many months. I just feel that the TI is not as comfortable as all my other razors, I still get a fine shave from it but it just feels harsher on my skin than all my other razors. What I was looking for was not advice on soap, skin prep, aftershaves or other such but a valid reason why a TI might be different ie. different steels, grinds etc. The guy who hones my razors has honed all of them yet the TI still feels different, I certainly get more comfortable shaves from older razors. Would a very light stropping pressure be better for a full hollow grind? Incidentally, the guy who sharpens my razors said I really should try a Wapi.
    Last edited by Barbelus maximus; 07-17-2008 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Unfinished

  8. #18
    Never a dull moment hoglahoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbelus maximus View Post
    Would a very light stropping pressure be better for a full hollow grind? Incidentally, the guy who sharpens my razors said I really should try a Wapi.
    I haven't noticed any difference myself on my Tony Miller latigo strap in shaving comfort whether I strap with light or heavy pressure. That's a curious question though, I wonder if it would make enough of a difference for me to even notice. For what it's worth, my wapi gets stronger draw on my strap than my thicker wedges do, but not nearly as much draw as a hollow.
    Find me on SRP's official chat in ##srp on Freenode. Link is at top of SRP's homepage

  9. #19
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbelus maximus View Post
    Thanks for all the answers. I don't do honing!!!!!!!! I hadn't considered a stropping problem. To be honest it pretty well looks like the TI will be retired as I really do just want to shave and be on my way.
    I felt the same way until I got into it. Now it is equally enjoyable for me as shaving. Try it you'll like it.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barbelus maximus View Post
    On the subject of practice I have been using a straight exclusively for almost a year now and consider myself pretty accomplished, I do a 2 pass shave every day and rarely get nicks or cuts and have had no irritation for many many months. I just feel that the TI is not as comfortable as all my other razors, I still get a fine shave from it but it just feels harsher on my skin than all my other razors. What I was looking for was not advice on soap, skin prep, aftershaves or other such but a valid reason why a TI might be different ie. different steels, grinds etc. The guy who hones my razors has honed all of them yet the TI still feels different, I certainly get more comfortable shaves from older razors. Would a very light stropping pressure be better for a full hollow grind? Incidentally, the guy who sharpens my razors said I really should try a Wapi.
    PM me. I'll trade you two brand new honed Wapis for your TI! I've always been tempted by the beauty of those TI's, but the fact that they are full hollows and 5/8's has kept me from running up my credit bill in that regards.

    Actually, what you should get is a 1/4 grind LeGreot $175 delivered. Awesome, brand spanking new, heavy grind razor. Thumbnotched, feels great in your hand, and even better on your face!

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