Thread: Quick question(s)

Today was my fourth shave with a straight, and it was less than ideal. Rather more irritation than I'd expected following the first couple of shaves. My question is two-part:

1. Shorter strokes or longer strokes down the cheecks and neck? I'm using shorter strokes to make sure I get all the hairs and I'm wondering if that might be the problem.

2. Angle: My first shave was less than 30 degrees and it came out all right, but took a long time. My second was as well. My third was 30 to probably 40, and I didn't notice much more hair removal than before. Today was 45+ depending on the area of my face, and I had to do some touching up in the early afternoon. Did it not cut because of the angle being so extreme? I strop 30 to 40 times before a shave and have used the rough side of the strop with chromium once, as per kenrup's instruction do to so every couple of shaves. The edge is still nice and sharp, so I'm wondering what made the difference. (Aside from operator headspace and timing...) Thanks.

You might want to focus on keeping your blade angle at about 30 degrees. I would also suggest stropping about 60 laps to increase the smoothness of the shave.
I find that shorter strokes seem to work the best overall.

Warning: It is easy to roll the edge of your razor while stropping when you are first learning. Keep the strop tight and the touch light!

less angle is always better most common mistakes I see new shavers doing is to much angle and to much pressure keep at it and you will get the hang of it,

All good advice.

Most straight razor shavers will find all the right cutting angles across their face by intuition, as they build more experience with every shave. But if you're interested in the general theory...
With the grain: 30 degrees
Against the grain: 15 degrees or even less, depending on how flat the whiskers lay to the skin on various parts of the face.
Across the grain: between 20 and 30 degrees.

Don't expect a whisker to be completely cut at the "zero" level with the first pass. In general, the beard is reduced in two to three passes, till smooth.
WTG, rather long strokes.
ATG, very short, slightly overlapping strokes.

Others might take a different approach...

Best regards,
Bart.

Originally Posted by Bart

All good advice.

Most straight razor shavers will find all the right cutting angles across their face by intuition, as they build more experience with every shave. But if you're interested in the general theory...
With the grain: 30 degrees
Against the grain: 15 degrees or even less, depending on how flat the whiskers lay to the skin on various parts of the face.
Across the grain: between 20 and 30 degrees.

Don't expect a whisker to be completely cut at the "zero" level with the first pass. In general, the beard is reduced in two to three passes, till smooth.
WTG, rather long strokes.
ATG, very short, slightly overlapping strokes.

Others might take a different approach...

Best regards,
Bart.

Thanks, guys. I have a much clearer picture of what I'm doing and how I need to improve. I'm doing well with the stropping so I don't roll the edge, and so far so good. I place the blade on the strop for each pass instead of rolling the razor over, and I don't use any down pressure at all, just lateral to move the razor. The degree change depending on ATG or XTG was something I wasn't doing, I was holding the angle constant throughout all the passes. I'll change that tomorrow and see what I get. Thanks again. It's great to have the experience and advice so close to hand!

Also,remember to let the razor do the work. Re-apply lather to the area you are going to re-shave too.If you are feeling any pulling sensation and repeated passes aren't clearing the whiskers, your blade isn't sharp enough.It is VERY easy to dull a VERY sharp blade by incorrect stropping and most of all touching the edge to test its sharpness. Since you have a pre-honed razor I doubt that is your issue though.

Having a sharp blade that is still in need of some more polishing will chew your face up with the best technique-so provided your stropping technique is good-feel free to give that blade ALOT more leather time!Just keep at it.Even with alot of experience you will have "bad" days. It sounds like you are on track, so keep at it and most of all ENJOY the task at hand.

One of the things which I have found has made a difference in irratation is the use of aftershave -- I've tried a few brands, and they all seem to work, although the creams burn less initially than the alcohol-based ones.

cass

Originally Posted by cassady

One of the things which I have found has made a difference in irratation is the use of aftershave -- I've tried a few brands, and they all seem to work, although the creams burn less initially than the alcohol-based ones.

cass

I think I quality aftershave cream will be the next purchase.

Originally Posted by Bart

All good advice.

Most straight razor shavers will find all the right cutting angles across their face by intuition, as they build more experience with every shave. But if you're interested in the general theory...
With the grain: 30 degrees
Against the grain: 15 degrees or even less, depending on how flat the whiskers lay to the skin on various parts of the face.
Across the grain: between 20 and 30 degrees.

Don't expect a whisker to be completely cut at the "zero" level with the first pass. In general, the beard is reduced in two to three passes, till smooth.
WTG, rather long strokes.
ATG, very short, slightly overlapping strokes.

Others might take a different approach...

Best regards,
Bart.

Bart,

This is beautifully stated!

Thank You!

Steve

Originally Posted by netsurfr

You might want to focus on keeping your blade angle at about 30 degrees. I would also suggest stropping about 60 laps to increase the smoothness of the shave.
I find that shorter strokes seem to work the best overall.

Warning: It is easy to roll the edge of your razor while stropping when you are first learning. Keep the strop tight and the touch light!

Much better this morning. Took it to the strop for 70 laps and kept the pressure really light on the shave. Also watched the angle and kept it really close to what was suggested for all the directions. Not to BBS yet, but I can see it coming. Thanks, everyone, for all the advice. It worked wonders for me.