Thread: What is the trick?

You have to remember two things, first, most razors out of the box don't shave all that great they require honing. Its a real crap shoot some are pretty good and some are pretty bad. It sounds like you got a bad one.
For me when I hone I try shaving my arm hairs, if it won't do that it will never shave the face but if it does it doesn't mean it will shave your face properly. it just means your on the right track.

The other thing is to keep in mind that it takes many months to be really proficient in shaving. It doesn't come overnight. When I started I didn't get a decent shave for many weeks and the shaves continued to improve throughout the first year.

So the keys ppints are honing and experience. Just stick with it.

My biggest problems starting were figuring out what the best angle was to shave at, then how to keep that angle or how to modify it for trouble spots. Once I figured out that it was best to switch hands it was gravy as long as I paid attention to where the blade was before I put it on my face, otherwise I made cannibal gravy.

Superfly, it is the general consensus of the members of the SRP group that a SS blade will take longer to hone and the primary requirement is patience. It does take awhile. Be sure that the initial bevel is created before you move on to the 4000/8000 stone. If you have a doubt then perform 25-50 laps on a sheet of 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper to start. Then move on to the 4000/8000 hone.

Hope this helps,

Thanks guys.

My razor is brand new, so i dont know is there a need to establish an edge on a new razor. It shaves my arms, but not with ease, besides mu left arm has amost no hair left on the underside to try on

randydance, i will try to hone first on the N4k/8k, 1000 seams to coarse for me, i don't wanna ruin the beautiful blade.

Well, I guess ill have to try and see

You may be getting confused about the various grit numbers. There is the US standard called either CAMI or ANSI, then there is the Japanese standard called JIS and also the European standard called FEPA. For purposes of this discussion we will focus on the US and Japanese standards. The Japanese standard roughly corresponds to the US standard up until past the 1000 grit marker. The US standard has not included the higher, finer grades of grit. The Japanese has become the defacto standard for the finer grits. In terms of micron size the Japanese 4000 is roughly equal to the US 2000 grit. So when I say go to the 1000 grit it is not 4 times coarser but rather twice as coarse. Just as the 4000 Norton is twice as coarse as the 8000 Norton.

You can try starting with the 4000 Norton But if after a period of time there is insignificant progress then you may want to step back to the 1000 grit.

Hope this helps,

I didn't realize there were different standards for grits. I think the name standard means just that, standard

Thanks for the help.

Superfly,

When I got my Dovo it was new but not what is considered shave ready. It pulled a bit and I got razor burn. With Lynn's help and a Norton 4000/8000 I got it nice and sharp. Now no pulling or burn In fact it now passes the hanging hair test.

Will try to hone monday... This Sunday i am best man at friend's wedding, i don't want to ruin my face