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  1. #1
    Senior Member blabbermouth ChrisL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bart View Post
    A few months ago, I purchased a barber chair. My two daughters (8 and 10) showed great interest to be in the chair and receiving a shave. So, I dulled a razor that needed restoration anyway, whipped up a nice bowl of lather and "shaved" those precious silky faces. I'm telling this little story, only to state that Jan's razor was dull, dull enough that I would have gladly used it to play-shave my kiddos. I astounds me that a store that specializes in old-fashioned shaving gear, calls something like that "sharpened". Inspection of the edge under magnification showed a massive presence of corrosion pitting. Their was no actual rust, but the pits were clearly recessed in the bevels' surfaces. I suspect they gave the rusted edge a good pasted stropping, when Jan turned it in for rust-removal and sharpening. Maybe they turned it over the edge while doing that, rendering the razor completely dull. Who's to tell.
    The tip and heel regained a good bevel pretty quickly, but the middle part stayed behind a long time. I started out on a very fast Coticule and jumped a few times back and forth between that and the DMT 1200. (something I do for practicing patience. Both hones are about the same speed)
    I ended bevel correction work on the DMT, aiming for a positive HHT. It passed but not without some effort. For that reason I decided to continue with the Naniwa Chosera 5K, instead of my normal choise, the Belgian Blue. The Blue is a much gentlier hone, more pleasant in use, but the Chosera 5K has the kind of sharpening power I was after, finding the bevel complete, but slightly subpar at that stage. After about 30 laps on the 5K, I did about the same on the Chosera 10K (staying on the synthetic route). I finished with 10 laps on a Coticule and gave the razor a good stropping. I also tried a few very light swipes on a taut loom strop with CrO, just to give the development of a fin a head start, and stropped again. Based upon the TPT and a decent HHT it did not make much difference in this case. After a last inspection at 40X magnification I declared the razor shave ready. There was no time left for a real test shave, but I'm very confident that it's a smooth and keen shaver.


    Don't tighten your grip. A supple, yet decisive grip is best. Under the chin you need a minimum of momentum. That takes confidence, growing with more practice. When the razor stalls ATG, lower the angle. ATG generally asks for a bit of a lower angle. Image lifted from the wiki, by courtesy of the author




    Most welcome, Jan. I had a great time. Hope to see you again some time on a future "shaving night".

    Bart.
    I've got to spend some time looking in the Wiki. I'm glad I'm not the only one that finds a blade nearly flat against my face works best for ATG! Sure prevents any razor burn too, eh?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jantjeuh View Post

    Or is there a way to just go XTG under the chin? I haven't quite figured that out yet, not really easy making a sideway stroke under the chin. But if that's easier then going ATG, please do tell
    That's how I shave under my chin. XTG and the skin pulled very taught. ATG under my chin even with a low or no angle gets me smooth but I get weepers; I think it's because the skin under my chin has more cushion to it (hey a double chin gives character don't cha know).

    Chris L
    "Blues fallin' down like hail." Robert Johnson
    "Aw, Pretty Boy, can't you show me nuthin but surrender?" Patti Smith

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