Thread: Finding the right angle

OK, so I've got a nice and sharp razor, and I have a good lather, but my shave...
Not so great. I think my angle is wrong...but I don't know if it's too acute or obtuse. The razor doesn't seem to glide smoothly through the whiskers--it catches and skips. On my tougher whiskers, around my "goatee" area, it stops completely and I have to use some pressure to cut. This leads to razor burn, of course.

So, how do I adjust my angle correctly?

The general rule of thumb for going WTG is to hold the spine 2 razor widths above the skin when the edge is touching your face. This is approximately 30 degrees. But, this all depends on your particular beard, so I'm afraid a lot of it is just trial and error.

I used to (and still admittedly do a bit) have a lot of trouble with my chin area. Just try going very slowly at a fairly steep angle, and pressing VERY lightly (we want as little pressure as possible). Gently ease the angle so the spine moves away from your face, all while trying to press as littly as possible. This will give you a better idea which angle cuts the hair better around your chin. It's a really touch area, as the angle needs to be changed often. Just take it REALLY slow. This goes for all areas of your face also.

Also, I've gotten pretty good at flexing my chin area skin without using my hands....I'm sure I make all sorts of funny faces in the mirror, but whatever works!

Working what angle works for your beard is a lot of trial and error, so just keep at it.

There is also the possibility that your razor is not quite sharp enough. You mentioned it was sharp, how was it honed? (I'm not doubting you, just trying to eliminate all the possibilities). If it was by one of our honemeisters it'll just take one variable out of the equation

Dave

In addition to the angle, I've found that a tentative stroke can cause the razor to catch. When I'm trying out a different approach to an area of my face, and I'm not too sure of myself in making the stroke, the razor will often catch and skip and otherwise not cut. This even happens to my sharpest edges. Once I get a stroke "down" and can make it with confidence, it goes more smoothly. Just a thought.

Jordan

I think it's best to start the razor completely flat against the skin when trying to find what angle works. So as you experiment, you just keep moving the angle higher until it stops improving. That's the angle you want in that direction at that spot. This way you won't have to guess should I go higher or lower?

I've found a pretty high angle works great for me on my chin. Be mindful of how much effort is required to pass the razor through the hair though. a stronger cutting angle doesn't seem to need as much effort behind it to get the job done

Thanks for your advice guys...I'll keep you posted on how it goes. I'm going to hold back on the upper/lower lip area for a while I think, and sharpen my technique on my cheeks/sideburns right now. Fingers crossed!

Originally Posted by hoglahoo

I think it's best to start the razor completely flat against the skin when trying to find what angle works. So as you experiment, you just keep moving the angle higher until it stops improving. That's the angle you want in that direction at that spot. This way you won't have to guess should I go higher or lower?

This is what I was going to say, but hoglahoo said it perfectly. Occasionally you can use a high angle and ‘scoop’ out some whiskers, but not often and it has to be in just the right circumstance. Otherwise, flat against the skin all but eliminates accidents, and you can quickly and easily adjust to the sweet spot in microseconds. Just remember that sweet spot will be different all over your face so you need this very flexible method of operation.

Two good posts in a row, all right. It's just tuff ain't it. Don't give up on sharpening, unless the edge is crumbling, keep trying a few extra strokes each day.

On my chin tip I hold a fairly steep angle, and just scrape them off. No amount of dainty finesses will get 'em

but the ones underneath that I have to scrub from every angle.

PDS is good for me. I can never get BBS in all directions


Oh I forgot to mention that the way i do my chin is probably wrong, it might be tearing up my edges. .. not sure.

angle effects edge life, pros?

That's a common comment about the chin area stopping a razor or at least resulting in resistance.

My chin area is very different from any other area of my face. The whiskers grow in higher concentration and are visibly thicker; and on the right side of my chin, the whiskers grow so flat against the skin and toward my right ear that it amazes me they don't naturally grow into the skin. With all of those challenges, no razor, even a Feather AC with a brand new Pro Super blade wipes off my chin whiskers. For me there is always more resistance whereas my cheeks and neck have little to no resistance.

I find that I have to do four things to navigate my chin:
1) Stretch the skin very well.
2) Apply a very generous amount of lather to create a good glide bed.
3) I use very short strokes and therefore reapply the lather.
4) I actually keep the blade quite flat against my face. Remember that section on the right side of my chin where the whiskers lie flat? After an initial XTG (which is shaving straight down in that area) I go ATG with a very light touch, short strokes, a bunch of lather and the blade virtually flat against my face. This gets me close and irritation free shaving in that area.

Chris L

I usually say start with a 45 degree angle and then adjust closer to the face from there till you hit the "sweet spot", but since that annoys some members (chrisL) I'll refrain from saying it!

By the way, for those who have trouble visualizing 45 degrees, its half way between perpendicular and flat against the face!

Bear in mind, the sweet spot will be slightly different at different points on your face and from one beard type and growth to another beard type and growth!

Yeah Mark, If I did 45 degrees, I'd have enough prosciutto to make a sandwich with the kind of face I've got!

Chris L