Thread: Just finished my first straight shave.. could use some help!

Hi - I've been reading through the forums, checking online for tutorials, and brushing up on the how-to's of straight shaving for about a month now. I'm very excited to get started, and am thoroughly fed up with disposable crap.

After much deliberation, I placed a large order with Ray at classicshaving.com (he approved of the items for a beginner); and was very pleased with what I received... and today was the day I gave it a shot - and as expected, I've got a lot to work on!

I understand this is a bona fide SKILL, and I am SKILLLESS with a straight razor as of this point - so I'm not giving up!

First off - I simply don't know if my blade is sharp enough. I ordered a brand new Dovo silver steel, but I have no knowledge upon which to gauge. Prior to shaving I applied 1 micron and .5 diamond pace to either side of my paddle strop, and went 20 round trips on each side. Of course, washed my hands and the blade between sides. Afterwards, I followed up with 50 round trips on my hanging strop. For a new blade, I am under the assumption that this should have been enough?

I fully prepped with a hot shower, hot toweled my face for several minutes, applied a proraso preshave cream, and proceeded to lather up patiently with my new badger brush and classicshaving soap.

I started to shave with a north to south motion, first on my right cheek, following the grain of the hair... next to nothing was shaved. I pushed a little harder on the blade, the hair started to cut, but only a little. When I attempted a cross grain, or against the grain stroke, my skin simply started to hurt. I didn't cut myself, it was just a severe drag, and it was painful.

I didn't have much trouble on my neck... which was very exciting for me, because I've always had problems with shaving my neck with an electric or mach3 type blade. I have VERY sensitive skin, and many ingrown hairs from improper shaving - so, inevitably, while shaving over these bumps, I would get little nicks, and I dabbed them with the styptic pencil.

At the time, this didn't seem like a problem - but now I'm just not sure. I have huge red blotches all over my face, especially my neck (even though the shave was fairly good), and I'm not sure whether it's an allergic reaction to the styptic pencil, my face is simply not acclomated to the styptic, or I'm just doing something wrong with the blade and shaving all together.

I was careful to lather, and relather, and relather, and relather again! I didn't want to keep stroking the blade against dry skin... but after 3 or 4 times, I just decided to stop because I didn't want to keep running carbon steel over my raw skin. I cleaned up the stubble with a mach 3, carefully packed up all the gear... and let the stinging begin.

Any general tips you guys can offer? I'm NOT giving up. Thanks!

Your experience sounds similar to my first go.

I'm still a novice at this straight shaving lark so can only base my reply on my own experiences.

It sounds like your razor isn't sharp enough and is simply ripping the hairs rather than cutting them. I don't use a styptic pencil as I have read that they can scar, I simply rinse well with lots of cold water, wait for the blood to dry (which happens within a couple of minutes) then rinse again to wash away the dry blood.

I have read that there is a period of time for the skin to get used to using a straight razor and maybe that is part of it.

Having just received three razors back from Lynn that I sent to him for honing I can definitely say that a properly sharp razor does make a huge difference.

Wecome to the Group! You bought your stuff at the right place, Ray is a good guy.

Unfortunately some new razors just are not sharp out of the box. I suggest you have Lynn hone the razor for you. That will save you the expense of a hone and the steep learning curve.

His email is [email protected]. I believe he has a nominal fee. There are other's who will also do the honing for you. Just post a message here asking for help.

The response of your skin is normal. It takes a week or so for your face to adapt to a straight razor. Until you have the razor honed I would not suggest shaving with it anymore.

The only possible other explanation for your difficulty's is the angle of the blade which you are using. It should be about 30 degrees or two blade widths away from your face. Flat against your face or a 45 degree or greater angle (squeegee action) simply does not work well.

You could try another set of laps on the pasted strops and see if there is any change before you have the razor sent out for honing.

Keep us posted on your progress,

Randy,

Thank you for your helpful response.

Ray is a great guy - very helpful on the phone, and very patient!

We spoke at great length about whether or not the blade would be 'ready' straight out of the box, and he determined it was about an 80% chance of it being a no-go.

He recommended the paddle strop, and two types of paste - and that's what I used. He told me that since the blade doesn't need harsh honing right away because it's brand new - careful and precise paddle stropping with diamond paste, and then 50 round trips on the best russian leather ought to do it. I think I just may be doing something wrong, because I am noticing small tiny burs on the cutting edge of the blade, that the stropping should be taking care of.

I went ahead and emailed the webmaster (that is Lynn right?) but I'll go ahead and email him directly at his yahoo.com account.

Before I purchased all of the straight razor stuff, I went to a so-called barber and had my first straight razor shave. They used a disposable blade, nasty shaving cream from a can, and cut my face up to no end.. but literally hours after the shave, everything was clear, and the shave was GREAT. So I'm not thinking its an issue of acclomation directly - I think I'm just botching up one of the factors, i.e. dull blade, allergic reaction to styptic pencil.

I went to a drug store and told them about my situation, and they recommended a hydrocortizone ointment and some benadryl so I'm taking care of this rash first before I go any further - but I definitely would like some help with sharpening. I have no way of knowing 'right' from 'wrong' here!

I'm using about a 30 degree angle shaving, but I've got to work on a lighter touch, and build up some confidence.

Is it bad for the razor to keep stropping on the paddle strop with the diamond paste to try to get rid of the tiny bumps that do not pass the nail test? I don't want to mess things up with my lack of patience.

Thanks again for all your help!

Besides singing the SRP orientation anthem, "Your Razor's Not Sharp Enough", it doesn't get mentioned too often, but your skin needs to get "broken-in" or used to shaving with a straight razor.

The straight razor will remove more slough (sluff, dead skin cells at the surface) than a safety razor and that means more fresh skin is exposed with each shave. Usually, in no more than a few weeks, any hotness and irritation subsides .... IF your razor is keen

Just applied 1 micron diamond paste to the paddle strop again... and did a VERY careful, very flat, no pressure, x technique 30 round trips. Washed blade, and did the same on the other side with .5 micron diamond paste. Washed blade.

Did 60 very careful, very flat, no pressure, x technique 60 round trips on the best russian leather strop...

Still seeing those tiny marks that don't pass the nail test on the edge of the blade, and not even close to passing a hanging hair or arm hair test.

So an hour and fourty-five minutes later, I'm seeing why this can be off-putting to the beginner!

I think it's time to send it in to someone to sharpen so I can shave in the meantime, and keep practicing. What do you guys think?

Well don't be too discouraged. I got my blade from David, ready to shave. I found no problems with stropping at all (except the desire to flip the blade the wrong way). After several shaves my razor is still passing the arm test with what I interperate to be flying colours.

So maybe once someone else keens it up, and you only have to do maintenance, It'll work a lot smoother.

My only advice: Dont try to get a good shave the first time (once its sharp, etc). I spent a good hour trying to figure out exactly which angle and technique for each part of the face. I did get a quite decent shave, but I also couldn't look up for a day. Since then I've limited myself to one pass over an area, maybe 2. (only relather once, if that) And after 6 days, I'm into mach 3 territory, with few nicks.

I also found my great grandfathers safety razor, so I dont need to touch a mach3 If I need rush shave / touch up gear ;)

good luck
Ian

Originally Posted by random

Well don't be too discouraged. I got my blade from David, ready to shave. I found no problems with stropping at all (except the desire to flip the blade the wrong way).

<<snip, snip>>

Ian

I am likely to blame for your "flippin'" problem .... I didn't have an Internet or PC when I was a teen just starting with straight razors (YES, we DID have electricity, thank you very much, LOL). So I am pretty much self taught and flipping the "wrong-way" is how I started ..... so, your razor probably expects that after spending so much time with me, Ian.

Welcome to the fraternity!

I've just been str8 shaving a few weeks and I avoided the real issues by getting shave ready razors and a Feather. I haven't had to face the honing issue, but it seems to me that your razor isn't sharp enough because it's dragging. I adapted very easily to the str8, because I was used to using a DE at the very open settings. I guess my face didn't have to get adjusted much to the str8.

The one thing I did notice is that the regular str8 (not a Feather) requires more pessure than a DE. For me, this caused a little bit of irritation, but nothing like what you described. Besides, if you were using an M3, I always found them to be very irritating to my skin. The str8 should feel much better.

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that you shouldn't have used the coarser paste. I would have just stropped on leather and tried it, working my way backwards to increasing coarseness and then forward to the leather until it was right. In other words, you may have dulled an edge that was already keen. Classic shaving or Lynn or any number of people here can fix it up for you. These are the dues we beginners pay until we learn how to do it right. That's why I have the Feather, to guarantee a good shave despite my ineptitude.

I agree with Randy. I had the same experience when I got my first razor. In fact I really butchered my skin. Once I got it sharp enough you do not have to press hard at all. I agree that you should get someone to help you sharpen it more. 8)