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Thread: ANGLE!

  1. #11
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    After several years of straight razor shaving I often think I have learned the best angles and techniques, but I still keep finding ways to do it better, after reading various tips, and sometimes on my own.

  2. #12
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    Gave it a whirl tonight with a Wusthof full holow. The full hollow you can definitely lay right down without face suck. But I still get a smoother shave out of my wedgies. I have to say that the full hollow did give me a very close shave though! Alum sting was lower than usual, but definitely had much more bite than my previous shave with the LeGrelot.

  3. #13
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    That picture is a great guide to angles, and shows just what is going on.

    I find that the alum bites most in the areas where I can't get the ATG angle right - under my chin and each side of my jaw.

  4. #14
    Senior Member matt321's Avatar
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    Looking at Bart's diagrams (repeated four posts up from here) they illustrate something interesting. With the blade angle assuming the three positions shown (30 deg, 15 deg, and 5 deg) only the 30 degree angle would actually let the edge touch a flat resilient surface. For the other two, the bevel corner would rest on the surface and the cutting edge is suspended slightly above the surface. That would seem to define two important regimes; one where the cutting edge is sliding in direct contact with the surface, and one where the bevel is making the primary contact while the edge is lifted slightly.

    (Edited to say this was wrong as desribed below. Thanks for the correction.)
    Last edited by matt321; 03-25-2009 at 09:32 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member Pyment's Avatar
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    I usually take the winter off from shaving. It has been kind of a tradition for me. I have started shaving again on the first day of spring every year for the last 30. My first 1-2 weeks of shaving are an adventure. I liken this to our northern roads in spring with pot holes, frost heaves and road debris that has accumulated. I can anticipate some mishaps. It takes a while for me to re tune to the correct angle and pressure as well as figure out where this years pot holes are.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt321 View Post
    Looking at Bart's diagrams (repeated four posts up from here) they illustrate something interesting. With the blade angle assuming the three positions shown (30 deg, 15 deg, and 5 deg) only the 30 degree angle would actually let the edge touch a flat resilient surface. For the other two, the bevel corner would rest on the surface and the cutting edge is suspended slightly above the surface.
    If the graphic implies this then it is in error. If you lay the spine flat on your face then the bevel will also lay flat on your skin - after all it does this on the hone and strop! If you're shaving around a convex surface like your cheeks or chin then the edge of the bevel will touch the skin first, but the skin is flexible and compressible enough that this isn't an issue.

    The suction effect with wedges and low angles is one reason I don't use wedges anymore. With low angles I get suction, and with high angles I get plain old razor burn unless it's fairly dull. Wedges leave my face feeling like I've shaved with a Fusion, which is to say insanely BBS and unable to shave again for 2-3 days.

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  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt321 View Post
    Looking at Bart's diagrams (repeated four posts up from here) they illustrate something interesting. With the blade angle assuming the three positions shown (30 deg, 15 deg, and 5 deg) only the 30 degree angle would actually let the edge touch a flat resilient surface. For the other two, the bevel corner would rest on the surface and the cutting edge is suspended slightly above the surface. That would seem to define two important regimes; one where the cutting edge is sliding in direct contact with the surface, and one where the bevel is making the primary contact while the edge is lifted slightly.
    I'm afraid this is incorrect, sir. A razor is honed while it rests flat on the hone. As a result, even if the razor is used flat on the face, the very edge will still be in contact with the skin, unless you were shaving a very bulbous part of the face.

    The given angles in my drawing don't refer to the bevel angle, but to the imaginary middle line of the razor. I believe it is the same reference as generally used in old barbers manuals and by the advisory posts in the newbie section of SRP.

    Bart.

    Edit: I see now that Mister Parker already addressed this, slightly ahead of me
    Last edited by Bart; 03-25-2009 at 07:15 PM.

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  10. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mparker762 View Post
    The suction effect with wedges and low angles is one reason I don't use wedges anymore. With low angles I get suction, and with high angles I get plain old razor burn unless it's fairly dull. Wedges leave my face feeling like I've shaved with a Fusion, which is to say insanely BBS and unable to shave again for 2-3 days.
    I have not yet experienced this "suction effect". I 've seen it mentioned a couple of times now, without actually having an idea what it is. Could you be bothered to elaborate a bit about it? I'm certainly not searching a debate, only interested in learning something new.

    Bart.

  11. #19
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    You ever get that suction effect when you're honing? When the edge starts getting really polished and the edge is sharp? Same thing, only it's your face instead of a hone. There's enough residual lather on your face that it forms a seal against the razor, so as the razor moves forward the vacuum makes your skin stick to the razor before separating. If you're shaving slowly then it's probably not as much of an issue since the seal has longer to break. If the razor isn't too sharp then the suction is manageable, you just get a very close shave. But if it's really sharp and you shave with a flicking motion then you get a lot of suctino, a really close shave and a bad case of razor burn. This isn't really an issue with full hollows because the hollow ground blade arches away from your face and breaks the seal very quickly, but on a big wedge you could have nearly three inches of skin sticking to the razor.

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  13. #20
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    After shaving with a 7/8 for the first time after having this angle epiphany, I can now see another reason why the big blades are so great to use. It is easy to maintain a very low angle with a big chopper than it is with a tiny 4/8. It is for me, anyhow....

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