Thread: Good HHT poor shaver

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I wonder if your coticule might be a fast cutter. ??
The razors I like to finish on my coticule always pass the HHT after stropping.
Takes 100 passes before I see any swarf on mine.

Very possible. I think the HHT is only good when you're seeing if the edge is keen at all with a scratch pattern. I never use it for shaving comparison since shaving is the only test for that. I just find it weird, when I buy shave ready blades and they come in the mail, sometimes they're TOO keen for me and pass the HHT. The problem is they feel horrible on my face and very tough stubble.

Originally Posted by Disburden

Very possible. I think the HHT is only good when you're seeing if the edge is keen at all with a scratch pattern. I never use it for shaving comparison since shaving is the only test for that. I just find it weird, when I buy shave ready blades and they come in the mail, sometimes they're TOO keen for me and pass the HHT. The problem is they feel horrible on my face and very tough stubble.

I hear ya. I hate toothy edges. A razor can be keen but not smooth. I find it's all about the polish stage.

Can't speak for the razors you bought but are they wedges.? If you have a tuff beard but sensitive skin possibly a stiff grind is easier for you to use.

Not all HHT's are the same. Have you read this ?
Hanging Hair Test, from trick to probing method - Straight Razor Place Wiki.

All my razors are full hollow or extra hollow. I have one 7/8 Joseph Rogers and Sons Wedge on the way though. I am looking forward to it. My skin isn't sensitive, not in the least. I just don't like toothy edges. I think I've had a pimple 4-5 times in my life and never had any razor burn even from a DE. My first post was more of my opinion that the HHT is nothing but a trick and doesn't prove anything. Shaving is key, imo.

I'll just agree to differ. I find the various HHT's useful...
Of course shaving is the best test.

I am in the same boat as you! I've got two razors and the shaves from either vary from bad to fair. I'm pretty sure they both are in good condition (Lynn honed the new Dovo like yours and I honed the other one as a learning exercise, HHT good, arm hair good) I can always shave my right jaw WTG, XTG, and ATG. The rest goes downhill from there. I too thought the blade was dulling, but then I started with my chin the next day and the chin still was bad. Stropping, shaving technique and prep are killing my shave. I'm sticking with it though because it is slowly getting better as I improve in all areas. I've already hit the point of not touching up with another razor and even if I have some stubble, I can live with it, knowing it is just going to get better.

Originally Posted by Gallinazorey

Hi Guys,

Today was my 5th shave with the straight, a new Dovo carbon steel (their cheapest most simple model). I am getting very confident and the blade dances across my face every time with more style and grace. But the shaves are getting worse. What I really don’t understand is that the razor just came from Lynn and I have a TM strop. Now I will be the first to admit that at first I may have put too much pressure on the stropping and totally spoiled Lynn’s honing, but I am very good at it now. I do 25 laps on the cotton (which has a little white Dovo paste) 30 laps on the Latigo and 25 on the horse leather. I am also doing 10 laps cotton and 10 Latigo after every shave. Am I over doing it? The funny thing is that it will pass the HHT with no problem, cutting even the smallest of hairs as soon as they touch the blade. The first pass is OK but nothing spectacular and during the second pass ATG it pulls on my hairs so it hurts (mind you I have thick black hair). The easy parts such as my cheeks & sideburns will end BBS (after 3 passes!) But my upper lip, lower lip, neck and chin I must confess I have to finish with the Mach3 to get the desired effect which is not the purpose of the exercise!! Is it time to take it to the Chromium Oxide? Or am I using the incorrect angle/pressure in the difficult parts and thus not getting the right results?

I have heard that many people don’t believe in the HHT and say the only test is to shave. Unfortunately I am getting good at shaving now and was not very good at it when the razor came fresh from Lynn so it’s hard to compare. When it first came I was scared of it now I swing it from hand to hand and upward and side way shaves are part of the routine…I wish I had a second Lynn razor now….

hht does help and i think most people love it when they hone their razors and pass hht.
i have had shave ready razors and they all pass hht one was from lynn and. i have one razor that only just passes but it does shave realy well. As for chin area and upper lip area.cheeks are a doddle normaly if your razor is shave ready. The chin and lip area will struggle if its not quite there you defanatly need a lesser angle literaly flat espesialy agtg it is technique if your blade is good. you will find with shavette they will cruise through any area with so little pressure that is what we use at our barbers shop i 've shaved guys with shave ready razors and they are differant if could get a straight razor honed as sharp as shavette it would be a miracle.

Originally Posted by gary haywood

i 've shaved guys with shave ready razors and they are differant if could get a straight razor honed as sharp as shavette it would be a miracle.

And you'd have to replace the blade after a few shaves
Couldn't resist

After reading all of your suggestions I can say you were all correct Angle angle angle. However, as we all know there are alot of moving parts in this art we practice and many have noted that different thing work for different people. I find now that I have to take my razor to the CO from Chris L (great stuff man) every 5 shaves (I have followed his suggestions and have put very liitle on my paddle) and stop using pre shave oil as it accumulates on the blade (even though I use very little) and the first pass sucks. I have very thick black beard and could sand a brick with my chin if I dont shave for 2 days. My next step is to try a more vintage razor..

One thing I can tell you is I cannot wait to my next shave. I absolutley love it! Nothing like touching your face after a good shave and feeling like you are 12 again.

I have a very heavy beard too, and I find if I do a 2-pass shave WTG/ATG I get skin irritation. Doing 3-pass WTG, XTG, ATG helps because the middle pass further reduces the hair. (Dunno why that helps, but it does). I frequently do 2-pass WTG, XTG if I don't need BBS closeness.

Originally Posted by Johnny J

I have a very heavy beard too, and I find if I do a 2-pass shave WTG/ATG I get skin irritation. Doing 3-pass WTG, XTG, ATG helps because the middle pass further reduces the hair. (Dunno why that helps, but it does). I frequently do 2-pass WTG, XTG if I don't need BBS closeness.

Gradual beard reduction will likely encourage you to use less pressure but technique aside, some razors will just plain suit you better than others & they're the ones we usually regret selling.