Thread: Razor Angle

Gentlemen,

Our learned Seraphim, in one of the posts, alluded to cutting the razor angle to less than 30 degrees, resting the spine almost flat against the face.

Although only a straight razor pilgrim, I agree with Seraphim. I left the 30-degree angle on the road a long time ago and seem to be doing all right.

If I were to give my angle an arbitrary degree, I would say I shave at about 10.

This might not work for everyone. It seems to work for me, especially since I never was comfortable with the 30-degree angle. If I remember, I read on the Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving information site something about placing the blade almost flat on the face. Unless, of course, I misunderstood, or misread.

So, Seraphim, thank you for your expertise and for giving me a heads up, indirectly, for the angle I use for my razor.

Gentlemen, what are your thoughts?

Regards,

Obie

Interesting topic!

For me, it depends on the pass and the area of the face I'm shaving. For my XTG/ATG pass, I flatten out the blade angle moreso than on my initial pass. I have a fairly coarse beard, and I find that sticking to the 30deg rule - more or less - for my WTG pass gives me a good start.

Under my nose, the angle might be 45deg - just so I can maneuver, while my final pass from neck to jawline has the spine almost flat against the skin.

Has anyone computed what the approximate angle is when the razor's spine is elevated one spine's thickness above the face? I generally try to watch what the edge is doing rather than concentrate on the non-business end of the blade, so I'm not real sure what the gaposis is, but I have noticed that I tend to elevate the spine more with my non-dominant hand and the resulting shave feels different from the dominant hand shave.

By the by, I had a Friodur with Speick cream shave this morning. Dunno what the angles were, probably somewhere around 27 5/16 degrees, but for all I know it could have been closer to 19.12 as my protractor got all lathered up and I couln't read the numbers to save my parts; however, it was darn close and comfortable. Maybe it was actually 30, it was that good.

I start with the recommended 30 degrees and vary from there depending on the area. I never flatten out more than the 1 spine width Bruce mentioned ..... at least I don't think that I do.

I go about two spines width on the first pass, then between one & two XTG. It'll vary depending on what feels most comfortable.
Within reason, i suspect the preferred angle varies between individuals, like everything else related to this hobby!

This is an example of way too much analysis. Frankly, the angle I use is the one that comes naturally to me based on feel and comfort. I'm sure it varies depending on what area of the face I am shaving, and probably by where I am in a particular stroke. I really don't think about it, I just do it. If I did spend a lot of time thinking about it, I would certainly cut my face to ribbons.

Gentlemen,

FCCEXPERT makes an interesting point about placing the blade against the skin in the angle that comes naturally.

Come to think of it, a low spine has always come naturally to me. That's why I put an arbitrary angle of 10 degrees on the way I hold the razor. My angle might even be less than that, or touch a more.

Obviously with Coup de maitre the angle is much steeper. Still, overall I try to keep my angle as low as reasonably and practically possible, with some variants in certain parts of the face.

FCCEXPERT, thanks for bringing up that point. Everyone else, thank you also for your thoughts.

Regards,

Obie

If the bevel angle on most razors is, let's say 18degrees. then the incidence angle with the spine against the face would be half that: 9 degrees.

So, half a spine width (i.e. spine laying flat against skin) is 9 degrees. The full spinewidth is 18 degrees.

I would therefore say that the already inclusive 9 degrees on the spine against the skin, coupled with a single spine width above that gets you to 27 degreees incidence angle of cutting axis to your face.

So, in actuality, a single spine width above the skin IS the mystical 30 degree incidence angle!

My dear Seraphim,

That is an excellent deduction. Thanks for your thoughts and expertise, and for giving me the idea of posing the blade angle question.

Regards,

Obie

Just realize that if you have to recommend an angle to someone starting out you have to start someplace and 30 degrees is just something to start with. of course in the end you use what works best for you. Remember that one of the things that makes shaving with a straight so precise is because you can continually change the angle as you shave differing parts of your face.