Thread: shaving with Japanese razors.

Originally Posted by DPflaumer

Holy Awesome! I'm interested but Japanese razors are definitely outside the budget of a student.

To me it's not about the most ostentatious scale, file work, extravagant jimps, crazy inlayed tangs or size of razor. I find that simplicity is best represented with Iwasaki size 1 ( size 2 meant for heavier set beards and 2x price of size1 ). Where the function of razor supersedes fashion.

In spite of the few razors I have, this maybe too presumptuous but Iwasaki is indeed an impressive razor compared to my shaving arsenal. This along with the Livi J-spec inspired razor are ones I've been using of late.

Craftsmanship: Japanese culture value asymmetry and refer to it as Wabi-sabi
Front and back of razor are blackened to help reduce rust ( does not prevent )

Balance: excellent balance very light in comparison to other razors I shaved with. Total control of the razor. You are essentially "one" with the razor. I know it sounds cheesy but that's how I feel. There's a saying "Jinba-ittai" rider and horse are one. From shaving standpoint, the Iwasaki exemplifies this saying. Granted it's only designed for someone else to shave you with but with preparation and respect of razor, you will find this will give you one of the best shaves second to none.

Collectability: If you love razors in general or would simply like to try something out of the norm, this would be great addition to your shaving arsenal.

Price: For such an exquisite shave with simple yet functional design-it definately is worth the price. You won't regret it.

Overall: You can take my review with grain of salt as I've only been shaving 2 months. Still there isn't a shadow of doubt as to quality and craftsman work of Iwasaki. This literally "chased hairs" away from my face! Highly recommended.

Hello fellow members,
Bought a nos Tosuke and cant get it to shave smooth. The raozr pulls on every whiskers and it feels like an angry samurai is individually pulling on them.

So I tried to shave with the hollowed side and it feels unnatural. Should I hold it with the flat side against the skin. I am right handed and trying to shave with the hollowed out side with the writing makes it feels like I should be left handed and I know it cant be right.

A shaving video would be most helpful. Lastly, the honing ratios on here are anywhere from 3:1, 3:2 and 7:3. So, which is the right one

Regards,

Dom

P.S. The .3 micron lapping film will make my Western razors the sharpest i have ever seen and they always pass the HHT

doesn't matter what razor you use for shave it should be shave ready first. it seems like it is not shave ready.
Ratio you can use 3/1--.7/3 etc
About video sorry i am useless on this .
hope this helps.

If you look at the blade from the toe end down the spine you will notice the blade is canted towards one side. The concave side bends towards your face and that's why shaving with the other side feels unnatural. It is unnatural. Honing a japanese razor is not like honing a western razor. The usual method is using a 12K hone and doing back and forth strokes with a 2:1 ratio with more strokes on the shaving side and using pressure as you hone. The real art comes in knowing how much pressure to use. Alternatively you can use a diamond pasted strop .50. Same ratio but not back and forth of course.

Your razor just isn't sharp.

Originally Posted by dgtirl1971

Hello fellow members,
Bought a nos Tosuke and cant get it to shave smooth. The raozr pulls on every whiskers and it feels like an angry samurai is individually pulling on them.

So I tried to shave with the hollowed side and it feels unnatural. Should I hold it with the flat side against the skin. I am right handed and trying to shave with the hollowed out side with the writing makes it feels like I should be left handed and I know it cant be right.

A shaving video would be most helpful. Lastly, the honing ratios on here are anywhere from 3:1, 3:2 and 7:3. So, which is the right one

Regards,

Dom

P.S. The .3 micron lapping film will make my Western razors the sharpest i have ever seen and they always pass the HHT

Sharpening Wakamisori - Straight Razor Place Forums

A Honing Lesson from my barber - Straight Razor Place Forums

So today I took my rock and steel to the barber shop. My barber had agreed to give me some lessons in honing, and so I took him up on it.

It wasn't earth shattering, what he taught me--he focused on technique, strokes and pressure and whatnot. It helped me, indeed, but there isn't a lot I can share here except for some facts about honing Kamisori.

He raised a HEAVY slurry on his Kiita, really digging the nagura in there, and started to hone. First off, he said you start with your body position--the hone on a table, your body centered above it with your eyes aligned with the center of the hone (which should be nice and long). This position helps regulate the length and proportion of your strokes.

Put the razor on the hone at a slight angle, handle leading, Omote ("flat" side, NO kanji side, etc) down. Place the first two fingers of your left hand in the hollow of the blade ("ura" or Kanji side up) and put pressure on the blade--not a lot, but some. The right hand on the handle is only for balance--no pressure at all from the right hand. In that position, do about TEN back and forth strokes--Up and down. Then, flip the razor (Kanji side DOWN now) and do ONE spine leading stroke.

If the razor needs more sharpening, continue that pattern until it's done.

My barber says he can tell a good edge by looking. He insists you go PAST mirrored until it looks a little dark--black? He also says the HHT is a good test...

SO, I trust his skill in the maintenance of edges. I've shaved with a few of his edges, blades he's used for decades, and they are all exceptionally good. Smooth and sharp. Of course, all of his edges would have been MAINTAINED, I doubt he's done much bevel setting, (But I could be wrong...He does sharpen other people' blades, scissors too, and he says they are often in terrible shape...).

So that is how I will hone Kamisori from now on. No controversy for me--he says it, I will do it, and gladly.

Oh, and one more thing. He said when I hone three razors to his satisfaction, he'll give me his Kiita (Which cost more than $1000 40 years ago...it's at least 12"x3"x2". HUGE)...So practice time is here!!!!

JimR's video on Japanese razor honing

If you've any questions KevinT/JimR/OLD_SCHOOL are the guys to go to

Suffer the mythos of it all.

When you shave with a usual razor there is a narrow range of grip, direction, angle of cut that best approaches any particular patch. I do all my shaving one handed fwiw. I try to use a best cut face-mapping, finger following technique to get the cleanest first wipe I can.

If you use wakami_ one sided, right handed, with the ura on the face it is far more difficult than using the omote. The movements are just easier. Regardless of side I find there a spots where turning is a welcome relief when it coincides that the cut works well and the grip simplified.. Both sides can and do cut well but not in all situations.

I hope i am not the only one noting distinction in different schools or philosophy of the one true side. both for sharpening and shaving

I sharpen with more strokes on the omote. So the stamped ura receives very little. But I need to do enough to keep the omote bevel in check. Otherwise it may grow too far out of proportion.

Deciding which side or direction, angle is never an either-or / equal choice for best cut. which may fuel the one side line, along with the razors innate assemetry. In essesence the same is true of our more familar usual occidental razor.


as an example: one best stroke with my fav jo elliot -If I turn my face to the left and flatten out the right side of my face with the toe down S by WSW stroke. I found the best way to cleanly shave my lower jaw. I am not looking but feeling my way. It took awhile to learn that. If i forget to do it in the beginning I still need to at the end. -which is how i learned it. To make that cut i do not have a choice of which side to use or the direction. The beard along with my technique-interpretation of body mechanics lol determines how to use the razor

The tool I purchased had neither handle nor instructions included. The message in that is clear- right? you are suposed to know what to do

What I have learned is this; if it is right for the beard, the shave, it is right for the razor.