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Thread: Talc for your strop, yes, no?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brontosaurus View Post
    Thought I'd resurrect this thread, as I'm curious about adding talc to cotton and linen strops, in lieu of the Dovo/Solingen white paste. Anyone try this, or have further comments to make relative to leather break-in with talc as originally posted here? For example, I'd be curious to know if charging a coarse weave cotton belting with talc, followed by spraying it with strong hairspray would help to smooth things, etc., etc.
    I have taken my well used coarse DMT to a new woven fabric strop to soften the top of the bumps.
    I am a fan of a single modest application of a submicron spray.

    Chalk is interesting... It varies a lot and can contain a little or a lot of the micro amorphous siliceous
    bits from sponges, diatoms and more (can be good). I once read that the 'ultimate' edge for a steel
    microtome blade was had by using diatom rich chalk on a vibrating glass plate/table.

    Talc today should be so pure and soft that it might best be used to smooth a strop and reduce drag.
    It should be a do not care on canvas or nylon webbing. Hairspray or spray starch combined
    with talc or good chalk might fill in the fabric nicely.

    I have an old shell strop and the canvas is both much finer than newer strop fabrics but was
    also fully fixed with a grout like chalk? filler. It has minimum 'buzz' when the spine runs over it.
    I like it.

    The SRP strops make replacing the fabric easy as pie. Try stuff even the back of a strop.
    The back of a fabric strop is an ideal place to use 'stuff' like CrOx that the razor only needs
    to see once in awhile.

    The coarse modern canvas strops are one reason I love the hard wool strops so much.

    My Illinois 127 strop took a lot of abusive break in and now is almost black and has an
    almost polished surface with a lot of submicron abrasive in it. The black is oxidized steel
    that now contributes to the polish and abrasive on the strop. Iron oxides are harder than
    steel.

    I am old enough to have used slate blackboards and had to clean erasers outside on a
    corner of the brick building. If I had some of that chalk dust it would be on my strop yesterday.
    Most chalk today is gritty and would not see my strop.

    A spray starch and spent slurry from a 10+K japanese hone might also condition the
    back of a new strop. If you like it go for it.

    Two types of strop in my set, dirty black and finely abrasive very very fine that I reserve for
    the first stropping after honing and nice and clean for after first shave on until the the next time
    I hone.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to niftyshaving For This Useful Post:

    Brontosaurus (06-07-2017), Disburden (08-15-2018)

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