Thread: Not quite getting it

About a year ago, I started my quest for a better shave. I went from an M3 to a DE. I've tried several combinations and settled on my definate favorite. I can take it WTG, XTG and get an excellent near BBS (I say near because there's always one tiny patch somewhere that gives the lightest whisker indication when stroking ATG) only when taking an ATG pass and a clean-up/blade buffing pass. My ATG pass meets my whiskers head on (as opposed to a slight angle), and I complete this pass with no irritation or nicks. So, bottom line, I know I can achieve BBS (or darn near), and I know I can go directly ATG.

On my quest for an even better shave, I decided to pursue straights a few months ago. I can shave WTG and XTG with ease, but I still don't feel the shave is close enough without an ATG pass. I've read many reports of folks getting a close shave without even doing an ATG pass, but I haven't figured that out for me. Problem is, my ATG passes still don't get nearly as close as I can get with my DE, and I just don't get it. My results are the same whether my razor is fresh in from a professional honemeister or I've been shaving with it for a while, so I don't think it's a sharpness issue. My stropping technique seems to be in line with everything I've seen and read. I've varied the angle from 30 degrees down to the spine almost on my skin.

Anyone have any thoughts on what the issue might be? Especially if you came from the DE world and have tips on making that transition.

All I can tell you is that coming from a few years of DE and now with over two years exclusively with the straight I've come to a place where I can get a bbs shave with one WTG pass and a few touch ups. This is fairly recent and I attribute it to improved technique in honing and in the actual shave. Switching to cold water may also account for some of it. The whole being the sum of it's parts it is hard to quantify. So stick with it and over time imperceptible improvements will occur until you reach yet another plateau and don't quite know how you got there.

++1 on Jimmy's thoughts...There is no need to attempt to achieve a BBS shave only a few months into str8 razor shaving. I transitioned from a DE to a str8 razor last December. Today, I get mostly close, smooth comfortable shaves, with an occasional BBS. I'm quite happy with the former.

Str8 razor shaving is more of an art than a science. Patience and persistence will definitely pay off in the long run.

I didn't get my first true BBS until about the 3-4 month mark and it wasn't consistent until about the sixth month. Now I've backed off knowing I can get it at any time and focusing on a comfortable shave I can do every day of the week.

Unlike most folks here, I've never used a DE. The best and quickest way to learn is to jump off the deep end and only use a straight no matter what happens...no going back to the M3 or DE.

I struggled with the same problem for a long time. . My GEMs and superspeeds were giving me bbs daily, but my straight shaves were always subpar. What I decided to do was pack away my safety razors, so there would be no temptation to use them, and keep practicing. The shaves get better, its really hard to explain why, but they just do the more you use your straight. Sticking to the same straight razor daily helps the process also!

Some good advice from these guys, put the SE away and stick with the straight. The key with this is the same with any endeavor, practice, practice, practice! Good luck and happy shaving!

As with probably all new guys, when I started, I was focused on the often referenced and therefore to a new guy desirable (HHT) as a test for honing and the BBS as the measure of the perfect shave...so, after much concentration, one severe case of RB, and some blood, I achieved the BBS, and did so for sometime...probably a few weeks ago, I noted that my shaves were no longer of the BBS-Class, but, still pretty good. I gave it a little consideration...knew my blades were sufficient for the task, so I was the problem...and the problem was:

1. Blade angle to the face...I had shallowed the angle
2. Skin pull...got a little lazy there
3. Prep...shortened the process

When I started, I was cautioned that some people try and shave @ 45 degree angle and avoid that...I over compensated...when you're @ 30 degrees with your razor...it probably looks steeper ... did to me and you might compensate by going too shallow on the WTG...when I steepened my angle, I found the initial knock-down made the other pass (es) much more effective. I get a BBS with 2-passes and a little touch-up on the typical trouble areas, (corner jaw-line, etc.).

Anyway, the guys above my post are more in the know than I, but, this brought the old BBS back for me when I want it or might be seeing a dark-eyed and in this case haired beauty...(think I'll copy this post and send it to her, might get some bonus points)...I don't reach for the perfect shave everyday.

Hey...good luck!!

All good advice above. Put the DEs away and focus on the straight razor if that is your ultimate goal. While going for the BBS pay attention to all of the details and perform a complete shave prep, hot or cold water to your preference. Perform the same shave ritual each and every shave/day for a week or two until you know it w/o thought. Then start changing one thing at a time starting with your technique in angle, skin stretching and pressure. If everything is as it should be I would guess that pressure may be causing the shortfall in your results. Next to no pressure with the proper angle and a sharp blade, good prep and good lather and, and, and... But start with a known routine before you start making changes. Also, map your beard and know it's growth direction(s). Your passes WTG, XTG and ATG will be in different directions in different areas of you face. Sorry if you already knew that but this post is also for the benefit of all readers. Good luck!

Focus on comfort and an ok looking shave. The BBS will come in time. I used DEs from 1979 up until right before I found this place and became a member here.

The BBS will come in time. Don't worry about it. It took me about 100 shaves with a razor before I could consistently get a BBS.

I probably can't pinpoint your exact problem but for me the keys in your post indicate two things: you mentioned the blade angle from 0 to 30 degrees and you kind of glossed over stropping.

Second evidentiary point is that the shaves seem the same no matter what point your at in the honing cycle.

First, let me emphasize that the key to BBS using an across the grain pass seems to be focus. I need to focus on what I'm doing. I need to see the whiskers in question in order to make them disappear. I remove my glasses and get really close to the mirror (a suggestion for a shaving mirror perhaps) and then shave like 5 inches from the mirror. This is where I can see really well (I have bad eyes). You have to be careful though if you have bad eyes too. If you get too close to the mirror you'll hit the razor on the mirror and that is really dangerous. It can get pushed into your face. The second fact behind this technique is that you get a little more firm hold on the razor. That can help a bit too. But what I like most about this is you can see the effect your having.

Next, the angle you will find the most effective can be felt and heard as you shave. If you relax a bit and open your senses up a bit, sort of start meditating into the task, you'll sense the changes that the angle plays on the shave. You'll know if you need to increase or decrease angle because you'll feel the effect increasing or decreasing. You need that feedback on the angle and stroke. Utilize a light stroke as well. The skin sort of seems to block the straight razor from doing its job.

Reconsider your stropping routine very carefully. Don't focus on what people say, focus on the effect you personally achieve. Let me ask you this: "Does your edge improve after stropping?" Have you started out by shaving without stropping and then stropped and gone back to shaving? If you aren't getting any improvement relook at the way you strop or the way you interpret what people are saying. From my perspective some of the generic advice we give out is very conservative. I can agree that a really sharp razor benefits from taut and light stropping, but most of my blades after a few weeks of shaving actually get better effect from some pressure added. So taut strop, but adding pressure. I would try to shave, then do like 50 passes on linen, followed by 50 passes on leather with some pressure, then do 50 passes on leather really, really lightly. Use enough pressure to feel a draw, assuming your strop provides it. But really think about effectively stropping your blade. Don't worry so much about what somebody else says they do to their blade. And then measure for the effect. If I hone up a razor it'll shave just fine without stropping at all. So, if I hone up a razor and then strop very lightly, why would I be impressed if I could shave off that edge? I could shave off it in the first place. The real mastery begins when you can take a razor that does not shave well and, using a strop, make it shave close and smooth; in a way that it could not before you stropped it.

So in summary the keys for real success lie in good prep, effective stretching, a light touch, effective stropping, and a well practiced focus on the angle/whisker/result of each stroke.